Lean burn was for emissions and economy. You can get better economy and cleaner emissions by running and HEI ignition and a regular carb.

Good luck getting 40+ MPG out of a Duster, or any slant six powered vehicle. If you break 30, let us know.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Trust me, I will. I have an aluminum block slant 6 plus some friends who are going to attempt some carbon fiber sheet metal panel bracing.

According to Chrysler the 76 Plymouth feather duster was rated at 36mpg highway. And these open deck blocks frOm aluminum 225's look like they can take a slice down to low deck 170 cubic inch deck height.
Just have to slice the same amount off the head bolts. I just worry I'd that may be underpowered with an 833od and the highway rear end that it comes with.

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

I have thought about this slice to low deck. You would need to weld or somehow install new bolt holes/receivers in the block, as the stock ones end about 1.5" below the stock deck. A 170 block is 1.5" shorter than a 225 block.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That's an EPA sticker rating...my dad owned one new and it never got more than 32 mpg highway, driving flat highway terrain...I've talked to a few owners over the last decade and all get 28-30 regularly if everything is working and the vehicle is in a good state of tune.

The reason it would get this was use of a large orfice EGR to knock back ping and reduce cylinder volume. Distributor with a lot of advance, use of the OD box coupled with the tall gearing in the rear(which ensured the car could never get out of it's own way when merging into traffic).

I own 2 1/2 of these guys and they are heavy cars compared to their pre-73 bretheren, so if you are shaving weight there are better body choices out there that would save the weight up front without having to do the work...(My blue feather duster weighed in at 3200 lbs with myself, no cargo, full gas tank...my '67 Valiant Signet 4 door, with myself, full trunk of tools and sparetire, full tank of gas, weighed in at 3050...).

Make sure you think your process through before making the attempt...I think the better candidate for a "mileage" experiment would have been a 1st gen barracuda, with a 70 duster or 2nd gen barracuda fastback coming in 2nd place...

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

D-idiot

Please, tell me more. I'm undereducated in the early
A/B/C/D body weights

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

Dodge rated my 82 D-150 miser for 30 MPG with a slant six. That truck never got over 15 MPG since it left the factory.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

The post 73 A bodes had the big 5 MPH crash rated front and rear bumpers, complete with the shock absorbers and a REALLY heavy backplate that the chrome bumper bolted to. It also the "guardrail" crash beams in the doors, which added a pretty good bit of weight also. My 74 Duster weighed @ 3500 pounds with a 160 pound driver and a 1/4 tank of gas.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Now what I've encountered is aluminum shock housings for the bumpers and aluminum bracing for the hood & trunk lid. Haven't looked into the doors, was actually looking at fiber with lamborghini struts and set in place lexan windows
(I'm gonna build it with good old fashioned r12 a/c.)
Was also going to remove the 70's sound deadener and use dynomat on the driveshaft hump & firewall, and spray on that new rubber $#!+ they keep hocking on late nigh tv. Flex seal.

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

Lou

The al6 has longer bolt holes than an iron one. And so my thoughts are to use arp head studs and cut them to length, and I also believe the holes are cut with a tapering tap, so chasing them with a bottoming tap would give say.... 0.5 more inch of threaded hole before dead bottom? Which should still allow enough tourqe to seal. I have a test block, just have to wait for them to change the band from bi-metal to fine tooth.

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

What I'm saying is that the aluminum casting section that has the bolt holes in it ENDS about 1.5" below the stock 225 deck. Meaning, if you cut the block down 1.5", you will lose the bolt hole bosses almost entirely. Looking at a block, you will see what I mean. I think you might get away with cutting the block down 0.5", but no more.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

You might want to consider using at least the long block of an 80s era hydraulic motor. Chrysler lightened the head and block a little, and lightened the crank a lot compared to the early 70s motors.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed

I have a staple of aluminum blocks and a pair of 170's

I see what Lou was talking about, but I also have a test aluminum block I bought off a west coast friend who used it for the same purpose I do, experimental. They tried the lightened cast crank in this block and aside from special bearing surface machining, it got a hole knocked out of the block. Oil restriction of some type.

All being said a 170 is 50lbs lighter than a period 225.
I'd like to find a 198, but turns out those are harder to find than aluminum slant 6 blocks. And the 170 can be stroked to 210. So........

Well, johhnie walker just joined the party, & his brother red.

Good evening to those who count.

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

ford what it's worth
http://www.classicinlines.com/DizzyGear.asp

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Definitely worth the click.

See what I wanna know is how to look at a used nylon gear and decide how worn it is.

Screw it. I'm gonna give Msd a call Monday.

Laters

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

Btw

Thanks to all you guys for posting, it's the only way to find out what I wouldn't know!

Thanks!

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Slant six should have stayed in production.