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| Low idle vacuum, sluggish throttle response, low power https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47064 |
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| Author: | 60 Plymouth [ Fri Nov 25, 2011 4:48 am ] |
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Thanks for the responses guys, appreciate it. I'll have a look for timing chain slack today. Got TDC marked yesterday, no discernible difference between my new mark and the old one so the damper hasn't slipped. Thanks for the cam thread Olaf. Do the OEM cams have symmetrical lobes? Additionally, is there a quick/dirty/simple method of finding the cam timing without a DTI? I'm wondering if some kind of high-ratio pointer (like a 'wobbler' for those of you familiar with centring punch marks in a four jaw lathe chuck). I could possibly knock somthing up from bits around the house, and it would help me find the maximum lift point on one of the valves. Obviously no good for plotting the cam's profile though. I do have a DTI - elsewhere in the country though, would be nice to try and establish somthing before I can collect it in three weeks or so. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:30 am ] |
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The cam used outside North America in '67 and later on 2bbl engines is the same as the 244°/244° cam used inside North America in '71-'80 on all engines. But don't I remember your engine bearing parts swapped off a '66-'67 Australian Valiant…? You'd need a degree wheel and dial indicator to determine what cam your engine actually has. I'm either under- or over-thinking, but I can't work out what a DTI might be. |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:46 am ] |
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Digital Timing Instrument? Just a wild guess. |
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| Author: | 60 Plymouth [ Sat Nov 26, 2011 6:25 am ] |
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Dial Test Indicator - plunger style (as opposed to lever-arm) micrometer clock for measuring distance. I've got a fantastic one at home, about 40 years old, built like a tank and reads off in 0.0001" increments. I used it for testing the run out on lathe and mill spindles. Yes, my engine has a few parts from a Valiant motor, before converting to EI it had the tiny little Bosch dizzy and a few other later US market parts. There really isn't a great deal of confidence in what kind of cam is installed, and at what timing. Looks like an afternoon with a notepad and a degree wheel is in order. It'll have to be done with the engine in car, but how reasonable is it to achieve with the radiator, ancillaries etc in place? Would anyone recommend this or should I be removing the 'front' of the car? |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sat Nov 26, 2011 6:45 am ] |
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60 Plymouth, I measured the Dart’s lift & duration of my cam with engine & radiator in place last winter. The fan had to be removed, and a crank bolt & assorted steel & rubber washers were needed to hold degree wheel snugly, but allow easy adjustment and engine crank shaft rotation. |
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| Author: | 60 Plymouth [ Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:37 am ] |
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Ahh good. I've just ordered an el-cheapo clock for measuring the lift so should be able to get the job done next week. I'll probably have to order large 3/4 UNF crank bolt and some matching nuts and washers too to try and get the degree wheel to hook up nicely. Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Nov 26, 2011 8:45 am ] |
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Ah! Okeh. We just say "Dial indicator" over here. |
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