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Engine, Not right
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47657		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:26 pm ]
Post subject:  update
I installed a fuel pressure gauge and I have just under 6# pressure when cranking the engine. Backed the lash off to .032 on all the valves. Tried starting it and it still sounds the same.

Pulled the carb and carb plate off and the carb plate is flat. Gaskets looked fine (They were new) While the plate was off I checked the surface of the Clifford intake where the carb plate bolts on and it was not flat. The outer edges of the opening all appeared to be tapered down. I took a sanding block and worked on it until it was flat. I still don't think that was it because I did have a small film of silicone on that gasket, but we shall see. I tore up the gasket getting it off so I need a new one.

Also the alternator is not charging so that is on order also. Once those items are back together, I will try a points ignition and see what happens.

Rick
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Jan 28, 2012 9:50 am ]
Post subject:  Ballast
I still have the same condition with the new gaskets and the flat mounting surface on the intake.Also sealed the carb plate mounting holes with silicone and I have 6# fuel pressure. So I am going to install an old points type ignition just as a test. Can I run it without a ballast resistor just to do the testing? It has the blaster coil. I think it will just burn up the points quickly but just wanted to be sure.

Rick
Author:  Dart270 [ Sat Jan 28, 2012 1:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
Why not try w/ballast?

Lou
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Didn't have one
Well, I didn't have the single style ballast. But I hooked it up anyway direct 12V to the coil. It is still the same. If the ballast could be an issue, I'll get one. But I'm totally frustrated. :? I just don't know what is going on. I had a used distributor with old points and condenser. I cleaned the points and set them to .020. MAybe I need to get new points and condenser too. It still sounds out of time to me. Just like someone switched 3 plug wires around. I am done messing with it for today. I'm taking the wife out for supper.

Not coming by this week are you Lou?? :lol:

I think I have a new dual ballast up here from Ryan's Dart. Could I use the 5 ohm side of that one?

Rick
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
have you checked the voltage at the coil?it should be at least 9v. is the alt fix and charging at 13.5v to 14.7volts idling?
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
12.2 volts to the coil. No ballast resistor now. I haven't been able to keep it idling long enough to even check charging volts. I will have to get one of the boys to give me a hand.

Rick
Author:  Dart270 [ Sun Jan 29, 2012 5:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Tried switching cap/rotor? A puzzler... You would use the 0.5 ohm side of a dual (lower resistance) - should be fine. Could try hot wire from batt to coil + as a test too.

Lou
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:22 am ]
Post subject: 
A cracked distributor cap ...... it has happened before.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Jan 29, 2012 11:44 am ]
Post subject:  yes & yes
Yes another cap, and another new cap, rotor, another HEI module. I think I'm going to drop the coil off of my truck onto it to see if that changes anything. Will try a direct line to the coil from the battery

Tomorrows another day.

Rick
Author:  USAJon [ Sun Jan 29, 2012 11:53 am ]
Post subject: 
it runs
so I would think it is eletric or fuel
is the fuel supply steady?
as in something blocking fuel feed line from gas tank ..a sock or..?
is the motor grounded to the fame?
keep a fire extinguisher handy
been there.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Fuel line
I did blow out the fuel line before I hooked it up. It is all new, 3/8" SS. I can look in the fuel cell in the trunk and see nothing over the outlet. Fuel pressure is steady at 6# when cranking it.

Rick
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Still not Running
I'm thoroughly puzzled, and a bit discouraged to tell the truth. Here is what I have done since last visit. I installed the new Alternator, and a new electronic Voltage regulator. ran a additional ground from the body of the Alternator to the battery and to the mounting bolt of the VR.

I installed a new Ballast, new points and condenser and I ran the ignition straight from the battery to the coil. After it still sounded the same, I put another used coil I had here and tried that and nothing changed.
I put a new set of Autolite plugs in it also.

The battery was load tested and was fine. It was on the charger for an hour or so while I was installing this stuff, so the battery was good and charged. I made sure the ground cable had a good clean surface to mount to the block.

I'm kind of running out of ideas, but I know you all will help me. I just feel really dumb some days.

One thing I noticed that is odd was when I removed the NGK plugs to install the new Autolites, I noticed the insulator on cylinders 1,2,3 was black. That didn't really surprise me on a new start up. But #4,5,6 were still nice and white. So after I tried to start the engine with the new plugs I pulled them all and they were the same way. 1,2,3 black & 4,5,6 white/clean. I have no idea what that means. if anything.

I probably have something wrong somewhere, but I don't know what!!
:? :?

Rick
1,2,3 on left

Image

This shows a little better the difference. 4,5,6 on the right

Image
Author:  DadTruck [ Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
sounds like timing to me, check cam timing, spark plug wire routing...
change out the distributor, ( like the idea of a points unit)

and post again, no matter how it goes!

I once struggled with a Buick v6 for a week, then found I had two spark plug wires crossed..

regards
DT
Author:  sandy in BC [ Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
153624
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Thu Feb 02, 2012 6:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
i know you have tried the dist in different positions but trying placing the engine at 10degs btdc ,drop in the dist without the bolts in the hold down bracket so you can keep advancing it until it keeps idling.
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