<$300 job sounds like a recipe for heartache and broken parts to me, but if you are careful and creative it could possibly work.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I dont think the amount of money spent has anything to do with the outcome of the project. I could buy a new turbo,new intake manifold,new carburator,etc...spend thousands and still blow the motor. My local JY is littered with turbo 4cyls, as long as I get parts that are in usable shape,I dont see a problem.You dont have to spend a bunch of money to see results.

Even with wrecking yard parts, I think you need to increase that number a bit if your going to come up with something you can drive down the street. That 300 dollar number is pretty stale.

I would be pleasantly surprised if you were able to do it for under a grand. 1500 might be a better estimate, assuming useable used parts.

Four cylinder turbos are going to be be mighty small.

The garbage on Ebay is completely useless. Mostly Chinese garbage. Stay away from it. A knock off Garrett isn't a real Garrett. The car will be parked in no time.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

We will see when I get some money. I will post up what I actually spend. I want a small turbo, I want something to spool up right off of idle. Max RPM is going to be 3500.Not going with any junk from ebay, all parts will be from some factory turbo car, prob. a mitsu or mazda which both use garretts,or even a volvo.

Like mentioned before, this has been done. Im not really trying anything new here,only my end goal will be different from others.

Sounds cool get some get up and keep the mileage but that 300buck goal seems unreachable unless you have some hookups for free piping, bov, wastegate, intercooler, oil lines, carb boot, misc.

You may have to check out some compressor maps for those 4banger turbos just to make sure they would be able to flow enough air for the good ol slant. The 1bbl like previously noted may have some trouble keeping up with the fuel demand but you could always plumb a nitrous fuel solenoid to use as an enrichening system! Though that probably would murder your gas mileage dunno just thinking out loud. I saw a rx7 with a 4bbl carb and turbo at the track using that kind of enrichening setup.

Kev

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I will have to make a carb hat,nothing out there will fit the 1920. As far as intercooler,bov,and a wg, I will just be running whatever is on the car I get the turbo parts from. Ive got a lot of piping leftover from helping a friend put a turbo in his mustang,and another friend in his 240sx. I have some other bits and pieces that came in the universal kits they bought,that I may be able to use.I also think I have a walbro fuel pump laying around that I got in a trade,just in case I cant get the stock pump to play nice. I forgot about oil lines,but that will not be a big expense.

The Allpar article had no intercooler, just stock 1bbl.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I am no turbo guru (far from it) but I have read a bit about turbocharging slant sixes and am trying to get it done, as we speak) and here are some of the things I have learned:

1. You don't need an intercooler at all, unless your boost level goes over 10 PSI. That is a ballpark figure.

2. A stock, mechanical fuel pump with a boost-referencing line from the carb hat to the back side of the fuel pump's diaphragm will work fine a low boost levels (up to 10 PSI, nominally.)

3. An alcohol/water injection spray unit can be made from a windshield washer pump and a carburetor jet as a low-budget alternative to a $300.00 Snowperformance BoostCooler, if it is needed,

4. If the turbo is small for the engine, no waste gate would be needed. The turbo's ability to deliver pressure (boost) will fall short before maximum desired boost is reached.

5. I think in an application like this (low boost, small turbo) it would be possible to get away with NO blowoff valve, to save money on the installation.

6. I haven't seen a 1-bbl turbo setup done, but I would think that using a super six intahe manifold and a 350 Holley 2-bbl carbureter might be be affordble (since you're saving all that OTHER money) and would be worth it in terms of tuning ease and power gained.

Others on this forum have had experience with turbos and slant sixes, so I'd appreciate it if they would correct me if I'm wrong about any of this. I AM the "newbie" in this game...

Thanks!

Bill, in Conway, AR

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

That's a great site with links to other great sites, and LOTS of excellent information. The ONLY thing I saw that was at all questioable (and, this is splitting hars) was a reference to an MSD Boost Master timing controller as an MSD module, the implication being that it was a mulltiple spark discharge MSD unit.

It is not. It's a 42,000 volt (plenty for me) analog "module" that fires the plug only once.

At least, that's what they told me at NSD when I called them and asked.

Mine works great on my supercharged 360 Magnum (Vortech-inspired, with 10 pounds of boost.)

Bill. in Conway, AR

The intercooler on a turbo setup isn't vital per say but why would you want to ram 300degree (just a random hot number) air in a motor when you can pipe in a 75dollar ebay intercooler and bring those temps close to ambient just seems like a mute point not to use a piece that makes things easier on fighting detonation and help obtain a cooler charge.

Not using a bov on a blowthrough setup just seems like your asking for trouble when you flap that throttle closed and that boost pressure comes rushing back to try and spin the turbine backwards and help create surge. Once again I bought a 40dollar ebay bov worked fine. Cheap insurance for your turbo

Not using a wastegate in general would give you no control of the boost pressure entering your engine and seems like a bad idea to start with, then add that tiny turbo on there without a wastegate that thing would be overspun all the time if your laying into the pedal. Besided not being able to control boost just letting the turbo spin to what ever the engine can spin it to would probably end in the short life of the turbo or maybe even the engine itself if that turbo is capable of making some decent boost numbers. Ebay external wastegate paid like 50bucks for mine works fine cheap insurance for both the turbo and engine.

Never tried the stock fuel pump with this setup but I don't see why it wouldn't work in this low boost setup.

Just thinking out loud don't wanna see a tore up turbo or engine
Kev

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Even though I plan on 8lbs MAX,I am still going to use an intercooler. As far as a BOV and WG, I wouldnt even think of not using them.

I know when a friend added an intercooler to his T-Bird his boost dropped. He had to change something else to recover the lost pressure.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Of course, if money is no object, I also, would run a BOV and maybe an intercooler. but remember; intercoolers produce frictional drag on the air that travels through them; you don't get as much out as you put in, in terms of pressure. Whether there is a net horsepower gain (employing an intercooler, or not) in a low-boost setup like this would need to be proven by testing. The pressure drop in the intercooler might defeat the lowered temperature, in terms of horsepower production.

Insofar as a throttle snapping closed damaging the impeller blades on a turbo's compressor wheel at 8psi of boost, I doubt that that would happen, but it might. If you can get a blow-off valve for only $40.00, I'd say that that's pretty cheap insurance.

I like the idea of chemical intercooling, myself, but Snowperformance's
entry-level unit is $300.00, and there's shipping on top of that.

I'd like to hear from someone who has actually run with 8 pounds of boost, and see what their experience was RE: intercooler or no.

Bill, in Conway, AR

You can look at my '68 turbo Dart writeup on this forum.

9 psi max boost, EFI, no intercooler, stock bottom end, 8.6:1. Have blown one head gasket when I tried to get greedy with timing (20-21 deg up from 17-18 ). 14.90s at 3400 lb racewt. Methanol/water injection is partially installed, and I plan to run that at 12 psi or less for a while before possibly installing an intercooler.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988