sounds to me like you fixed it the right way..

Haha, thanks. Someone further back on this thread or another said something about the polyethylene being hard to heat right- damn, were they right! We used a propane heating torch for the repair, and it STILL took close to an hour! That's some serious plastic!

You guys are incredibly helpful. Thank you so much!

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I think RV waste tanks are polypropylene-polyethelnene, and there is a spical adhesive used to repair them. I will check monday and see.

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So, still having som stalling issues... Found out today tha my ignition timing was way too advanced, knocked it back to about 16 degrees. The only vacuum hooked up still is from the pcv and the vacuum advance, neither of which are leaking. Any ideas?

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replace fuel filter , clean carb and reset mixture/speed

I second the fuel filter. Cheap and easy.

If you still have problems you may want to take the top off and look inside the carburetor bowl to see how dirty it is. If there is a lot of dirt/rust/whatever that is that settles in the bowl of carburetors, it wouldn't hurt to take it apart, soak it and put a rebuild kit in it.

A lot of good carburetor adjust/repair information here:

http://tinyurl.com/7gjxk39

Danny

I agree this is what i did in the same situation. Replace the fuel filter, cost me 3.95 and 55 seconds of work. taking apart the carb and cleaning it will help, recomnend a carb kit also

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So, final thoughts:

Found some black gunk in the primary idle jet- cleaned it out. Installed tachometer. Not sure how high it was idling before to overcome the jet blockage, but I've now got it down to the mixture screw about 1.5 turns out, and I don't even need the idle screw touching the linkage- it runs between 1000 and 1300 rpms without any idle speed assist at all. Also, installed a filter just above the fuel pump. I'll probably go ahead and go down a bit on my jets, as that's still higher than it probably ought to be, but it's SO QUIET now All stalling has ceased. Next up is a working sending unit and the proper gauge cluster and bezel, then probably a tune-up. Yay!

Edit: Just realized why it's still high- Gotta adjust my choke )

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while you are under the hood fixing carb issues, another place to check is the charcoal canister,, as they advance in age a common failure mode is for the internal screening to break down and allow the tiny bits of charcoal to get into the carb bowl or fuel tank vent line,
an ez action is to install a cheap fuel filter in the line(s).

Got a filter already, charcoal can was bypassed before I ever owned the thing

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Depending what choke you have it may not have much adjustment. Find the fast idle screw and back it out. If the choke is open, which it must be if it's running good, your fast idle screw has just had a moron screwing it. Or with it. Or both.

Back it out and set your regular idle while engine is hot and choke is open. Set the fast idle screw while engine is cold and choke is closed.

Danny

Choke is manual; I'd had it set to where it didn't open all the way temporarily to compensate while I had my primary idle jet stopped up Weird and quirky, that is...

I seem to have everything about right now, though-

Mix screw 2 turns out
Idle speed a couple turns in
Choke set normally
Idles at around 8-900 now.

At this point, I'm just playing with the jets and settings a bit to see where I seem to get the best fuel economy without killing my power entirely

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My 1980 Dodge D150

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