Slant Six Forum
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while trying to adjust my timing
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48389		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  slantzilla [ Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:54 pm ]
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In you second picture of the pulley, that tab that's sticking out and folded up is about where your timing tab should be. The bolt-on one on the other side is wrong.
Author:  Fopar [ Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:01 pm ]
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I agree with big D on the tab looking like it was bent or broken off.

Richard
Author:  1970-dart [ Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:11 pm ]
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thanks for the reply guys..

that thing sticking up is the tab out of the hose clamp for the radiator hose.. the whole cover is smooth on that side and i can tell there was never anything bolted or welded there
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:30 pm ]
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To use the early timing tab someone has equipped your car with for some strange reason, you will need to carefully find the correct TDC on the frontmost cylinder, then make yourself a new mark aligned with "0" (TDC) on the tab.
Author:  1970-dart [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:57 am ]
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thanks again everyone

Dan so you saying do the best i can to get the correct TDC and then mark the cover on the passenger side or i could take my chalk and mark the pulley on the other side where it lines up with the tab and then make a groove in the pulley there.

or can i take the pulley off and turn it some to get it in a different set of holes and maybe it will line up with the marks. Or if somebody can identify my engine by the numbers i found i can get the correct stuff for my setup

and dan you had mentioned the other day about getting it on the CORRECT TDC now i am prett yconfident in getting it very close using th coat hanger trick but how do i know when im on the correct stroke


i am just throwing out ideas to see what you guys think would be the best route for me.. and again thanks for all the help it has been invaluable.. the search works well but in many cases real time info from the horses mouth make more sense
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:08 am ]
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Quote:
Dan so you saying do the best i can to get the correct TDC and then mark the cover on the passenger side
No. Mark the pulley at the 0 (TDC) mark on your driver-side indicator tab.
Quote:
or can i take the pulley off and turn it some to get it in a different set of holes
No. It fits on the crankshaft only one way.
Quote:
Or if somebody can identify my engine by the numbers i found i can get the correct stuff for my setup
You'd need a '67-up timing cover assembly (without broken-off timing indicator tab) and it'd be a good time to install a new crank pulley assembly, since they tend to go bad over the decades.
Quote:
and dan you had mentioned the other day about getting it on the CORRECT TDC now i am prett yconfident in getting it very close using th coat hanger trick but how do i know when im on the correct stroke
Pop the valve cover off and watch the front two valves. The wrong TDC will have both valves open (springs compressed). The right TDC will have both valves closed (springs at full height, rocker arms can be grabbed and rattled up and down at the tip).
Author:  KBB_of_TMC [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:23 am ]
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For what it's worth, I've seen harmonic balancers slip between the inner and outer parts and read ~120 deg off. In some Fords that's quite common, but I've never seen it in a Mopar. I made new timing marks by using a stop screwed into the spark plug hole (but I ought to have made sure the end of the stop wasn't sharp enough to nick the piston).
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:16 am ]
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For the purpose of marking the balancer, it doesn't matter if the engine is at TDC on compression stroke or TDC on exhaust stroke on #1 cyl (or if you use #6 TDC instead) All we're concerned with here is CRANKSHAFT position. If the timing marks line up at TDC on compression stroke, it had better line up if you rotate the crank 360*.

The "coathanger method" will get you in the ballpark, or you can get (or make) a piston stop. Gently turn the eng by hand until the piston contacts the stop (adj the stop so the piston hits just short of TDC)- make a small mark on the balancer at 0* (as indicated by the timing tab). Turn the eng backwards until the piston stops again- make another mark at 0*. Your true TDC is halfway between the two marks- make a nice permanent mark- file a notch, etc.

Now for cam/ ignition timing (or anything else distributor related), which TDC you're at is essential.
Author:  1970-dart [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:58 am ]
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thanks again Dan and others

I got done work early and came home and went out in garage to work on car some.. I took off valve cover and took out front plug and got it to TDC where the front two valves were closed (the springs were at full height and rockers were able to be rattled) the rotor in distributor was pointing right at number one plug wire on the cap and the darn marks on the pulley were still facing other side from the tab


UGHHHHH
Author:  Fopar [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:07 pm ]
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OK now do as Dan suggested !

Richard
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:10 pm ]
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Quote:
the rotor in distributor was pointing right at number one plug wire on the cap and the darn marks on the pulley were still facing other side from the tab
Yes. This is because engines and parts do not repair themselves simply because we visualize what we want them to do (wouldn't it be nice!). You will have to actually follow the directions provided for creating a new timing mark that will work with your driver-side timing tab.
Author:  1970-dart [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:02 pm ]
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no matter how many times i turn it the marks never line up when the piston is at the top.. i have tomorrow off so I will just keep plugging away at it until i get it..

Thanks everyone
Author:  Doc [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:19 pm ]
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You have the worng parts... so the marks will never line-up... no matter how many times you try.

Basically, you have the 60-67 timing cover with "bolt-on", drivers side timing tab, combined with a 68 and newer damper... that damper uses a passenger side timing tab, that style tab is welded to the timing cover.
Said a different way, The SL6 has 2 different dampers, the only difference between the 2 is where the timing mark (notch) is locatated on the pulley groove.

To fix this somewhat common, "MIS-MATCH" of parts, you will need to do 1 of 3 things:
- Set the engine (crankshaft) to TDC and add a new mark onto the damper (pulley), that points to "0" (zero) on the current bolt-on timing tab.
- Find and swap-on the correct 68 and newer timing chain cover, with the "welded-on" timing tab.
- Find and swap-on the 60-67 damper, that goes with the bolt-on timing tab.

The first "fix" listed is the least amount of money & work. That fix requires that you find TDC (accuratly) and doing that has already been reviewed in this thread.
DD
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:34 pm ]
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Quote:
no matter how many times i turn it the marks never line up when the piston is at the top.
Okeh, let me try this one more time because you seem not to understand:

The existing marks will not line up no matter how much you turn the engine. YOU MUST MAKE A NEW MARK ON YOUR CRANKSHAFT PULLEY, OPPOSITE THE DRIVER-SIDE TIMING INDICATOR'S "0" OR "TDC" LINE, WITH THE FRONTMOST PISTON AT TDC.

I really don't know how this can be made any clearer. What is it you're having trouble understanding?

:shrug:
Author:  1970-dart [ Thu Apr 05, 2012 2:10 pm ]
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Hey Dan thanks again for the reply

I understand that they will not line up as is and the thing that was confusing me was being told to make new marks opposite the drivers side tab. I can't do that because there is no tab there. but now I understand fully that i have mismatched parts and i understand the way I need to make new marks on existing pulley.

Now I just need to figure out how to make piston stop
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