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oil pump removal https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48516 |
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Author: | THOR [ Mon Apr 16, 2012 2:20 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Huh? |
Quote: Quote: Don't forget 6A DusterIdiot; Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
I didn't have to do that even with the dutra duals on the hpak duster...You must have an exhaust hanger near the front subframe or the firewall like the stock '74's had... -D.Idiot You can do it on '63-'66 cars too! I've done it! It was a MASSIVE PITA to actually get the new pump in (new pump was slightly taller.... the one you gave me), but once it was in, DONE! It takes time, patience, and a few curse-words, but all I did was remove the oil filter and passenger side engine mount. Then I used a pry bar and brute strength to get it done! ~THOR~ |
Author: | 65cudaman [ Sun Jun 17, 2012 8:53 am ] |
Post subject: | Oil pump seal under the cover? |
found this thread while looking for info on replacing the seal under the oil pump top cover that is held on with 5 bolts. Can anyone help me with the part number or source for the seal? Luckilly the engine is out of the car! ) Much Thanks!! |
Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Jun 18, 2012 3:41 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Send me a PM with your address, and I will mail you the seal. It is a large "O" ring, BTW. I have several extras. |
Author: | DCello [ Thu Feb 20, 2014 6:35 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Only on early cars... |
I was able to do this without removing radiator on 1975 D100 while (slowly!) doing the clutch (still on it, very slowly). Used one of those adjustable cross braces to hold the rear of the engine up (was only trying to drop oil pan when I started to think about the oil pump - truck probably has 180k) with bolt after removing bell housing. Then used floor jack with ~18inch 6x6 vertical atop it to jack lowest rear corner (passenger side) of engine. Thereupon I noticed the reason for removing radiator - the fan blades got awful close! But wait! I realized that with the cross brace there, I could probably level the engine out and address that problem by jacking front of engine - used a second jack with similar 6x6 post - and SLOWLY, back and forth, inch by inch, step by step (maybe 3-4 steps) got the passenger side of the engine to pop off of the mount bolt - and voila! plenty of clearance to remove the oil pump! Of course, wait til I get it back down without gashing the radiator - if I have success and there is interest, I'll post a few pics. (also, I have the whole truck up and level on four stands, exhaust, bell housing, tranny out) DCello Quote: Quote: The oil pump can't be removed with the engine mounted in the car.
It can be pulled in a 1967+ car if you do the following:1) Chock the rear wheels 2) Drain the Radiator 3) Remove the radiator hoses from the radiator 4) Loosen driver's side motor mount slightly 5) Loosen passenger side motor mount completely 6) Remove oil filter 7) Jack up the car and put jackstands under front subframe rails. 8 ) Put a 2x4 under the passenger side oil pan flange and use jack to lift the motor up until the passenger side motor mount is clear of the K-member spool catch...or the motor mount is loose of the 'sandwich' on 1967-1972 cars. Do not jack the motor up using the jackand the oil pan itself. 9) Remove 5 or 6 bolts using a 1/2" wrench, ratchet, etc that hold the pump to the block. 10) Using a small rubber hammer or piece of wood give the pump a 'thump' to loosen it from the engine. 11) If you have an original OEM 6 bolt pump there will be barely enough room to pull it straight out and remove. 11A) If you have an aftermarket Melling/5 bolt pump: a)Remove the pump rotor cover bolts b) Remove the pump cover and rotating ring (that way you don't drop it and marr the surface when removing the pump) c) Remove pump, it will just barely clear once the cover and bolts are removed. 12) Clean block mating surface. 13) If installing an OEM pump to it's place, install in reverse making sure to install the oil pump gasket the correct way on the pump body first. 13A) If installing an aftermarket Melling pump remove pump cover, gasket, and rotating ring. Install gasket on pump body, install pump body per reverse of above, except: Once the body has been bolted to engine, with clean hands (or gloves) install rotating ring, use a dab of grease or vaseline and smear on pump rotor and ring, especially in the 'mating cavities'/contact surfaces, install gasket and pump cover, tighten all bolts. 14) Lower car, rehook up motor mounts, radiator hoses, fill radiator, install new oil filter with a good dollop of oil in the filter before it is installed-probably good to do a full oil change at this point as well. This is far easier with the engine out of the car...and I wouldn't do this again with it raining outside either... -D.Idiot |
Author: | DCello [ Thu Mar 06, 2014 9:08 am ] |
Post subject: | Worked well.... |
I'll post pics later - not sure if I would have tried it without the brace supporting the engine rear from above though.... DCello[/img] |
Author: | Reed [ Wed May 27, 2015 4:09 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Only on early cars... |
Quote: Quote: The oil pump can't be removed with the engine mounted in the car.
It can be pulled in a 1967+ car if you do the following:1) Chock the rear wheels 2) Drain the Radiator 3) Remove the radiator hoses from the radiator 4) Loosen driver's side motor mount slightly 5) Loosen passenger side motor mount completely 6) Remove oil filter 7) Jack up the car and put jackstands under front subframe rails. 8 ) Put a 2x4 under the passenger side oil pan flange and use jack to lift the motor up until the passenger side motor mount is clear of the K-member spool catch...or the motor mount is loose of the 'sandwich' on 1967-1972 cars. Do not jack the motor up using the jackand the oil pan itself. 9) Remove 5 or 6 bolts using a 1/2" wrench, ratchet, etc that hold the pump to the block. 10) Using a small rubber hammer or piece of wood give the pump a 'thump' to loosen it from the engine. 11) If you have an original OEM 6 bolt pump there will be barely enough room to pull it straight out and remove. 11A) If you have an aftermarket Melling/5 bolt pump: a)Remove the pump rotor cover bolts b) Remove the pump cover and rotating ring (that way you don't drop it and marr the surface when removing the pump) c) Remove pump, it will just barely clear once the cover and bolts are removed. 12) Clean block mating surface. 13) If installing an OEM pump to it's place, install in reverse making sure to install the oil pump gasket the correct way on the pump body first. 13A) If installing an aftermarket Melling pump remove pump cover, gasket, and rotating ring. Install gasket on pump body, install pump body per reverse of above, except: Once the body has been bolted to engine, with clean hands (or gloves) install rotating ring, use a dab of grease or vaseline and smear on pump rotor and ring, especially in the 'mating cavities'/contact surfaces, install gasket and pump cover, tighten all bolts. 14) Lower car, rehook up motor mounts, radiator hoses, fill radiator, install new oil filter with a good dollop of oil in the filter before it is installed-probably good to do a full oil change at this point as well. This is far easier with the engine out of the car...and I wouldn't do this again with it raining outside either... -D.Idiot Does this work with an automatic transmission equipped car? |
Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed May 27, 2015 5:36 pm ] |
Post subject: | Just remember... |
Keep an eye on the tranny cooler lines so you don't kink them, linkage should not be a major hassle as I did that other one with the Z-bar installed....You can always detach the cooler lines from their clips and use a block of wood on the drivers side between the pan rail and fender to prevent the motor from moving more than you really need it too...a second set of eyes can help out while under going the procedure...you won't move much for the stock pump, but may need a little more room for the melling (you can also save a little room by installing the cover plate, ring and gasket after the pump is installed.....) |
Author: | Reed [ Wed May 27, 2015 7:36 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks. I will cross my fingers that either (a) I don't have to do this, or (b) it goes easy. |
Author: | shadango [ Wed Aug 10, 2016 7:00 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Only on early cars... |
Quote: Quote: The oil pump can't be removed with the engine mounted in the car.
It can be pulled in a 1967+ car if you do the following:1) Chock the rear wheels 2) Drain the Radiator 3) Remove the radiator hoses from the radiator 4) Loosen driver's side motor mount slightly 5) Loosen passenger side motor mount completely 6) Remove oil filter 7) Jack up the car and put jackstands under front subframe rails. 8 ) Put a 2x4 under the passenger side oil pan flange and use jack to lift the motor up until the passenger side motor mount is clear of the K-member spool catch...or the motor mount is loose of the 'sandwich' on 1967-1972 cars. Do not jack the motor up using the jackand the oil pan itself. 9) Remove 5 or 6 bolts using a 1/2" wrench, ratchet, etc that hold the pump to the block. 10) Using a small rubber hammer or piece of wood give the pump a 'thump' to loosen it from the engine. 11) If you have an original OEM 6 bolt pump there will be barely enough room to pull it straight out and remove. 11A) If you have an aftermarket Melling/5 bolt pump: a)Remove the pump rotor cover bolts b) Remove the pump cover and rotating ring (that way you don't drop it and marr the surface when removing the pump) c) Remove pump, it will just barely clear once the cover and bolts are removed. 12) Clean block mating surface. 13) If installing an OEM pump to it's place, install in reverse making sure to install the oil pump gasket the correct way on the pump body first. 13A) If installing an aftermarket Melling pump remove pump cover, gasket, and rotating ring. Install gasket on pump body, install pump body per reverse of above, except: Once the body has been bolted to engine, with clean hands (or gloves) install rotating ring, use a dab of grease or vaseline and smear on pump rotor and ring, especially in the 'mating cavities'/contact surfaces, install gasket and pump cover, tighten all bolts. 14) Lower car, rehook up motor mounts, radiator hoses, fill radiator, install new oil filter with a good dollop of oil in the filter before it is installed-probably good to do a full oil change at this point as well. This is far easier with the engine out of the car...and I wouldn't do this again with it raining outside either... -D.Idiot |
Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Aug 10, 2016 5:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | Yes, but... |
Quote: Would there be any reason that one couldn't use ramps for the front end rather than stands???
I put my stands on the subframe rails back by the passenger compartment... that way if I have to remove the tire to get more room you have all that room to work under (and if you have to have another hand in there...Ramps would probably work, but mind the need for safety.... |
Author: | shadango [ Fri Aug 12, 2016 4:09 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I was able to peel the big piece off the oil pump part....it'd nonmagnetic so I assume it can only be bearing material..... |
Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Fri Aug 12, 2016 7:04 am ] |
Post subject: | |
It is time to drop the oil pan or better yet, pull the engine, for a review & "freshen-up"... DD |
Author: | Badvert65 [ Fri Aug 12, 2016 9:30 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: I was able to peel the big piece off the oil pump part....it'd nonmagnetic so I assume it can only be bearing material.....
Man, I hate it when that happens.
|
Author: | shadango [ Sat Aug 13, 2016 5:35 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: It is time to drop the oil pan or better yet, pull the engine, for a review & "freshen-up"...
Well me and my son have been mulling those questions.....DD Having this one redone (if its not too far trashed) would be the preferred route.....and hopefully the least expensive...maybe go a little oversized and tweak it a little.....? A cousin of mine has a 1978 318 out of a truck that has 109k miles on it.....he says it ran good before getting yanked (the truck was being parted out)...that would mean a bunch of rework to exhaust, maybe trans, etc....not sure what trans we have in the Volare and if it will bolt right up to the 318 or not? He says we can have it free.....of course to adapt it in wont be free. Tyler is a new driver.....turning 17 in a couple weeks. He just got his first job....he is a responsible kiddo so far.....but hard to get in much trouble with a stock slant 6...plus the issue of gas mileage....if he cant afford to drive the car with the v8 in it, that will be rough......it will be his daily driver. I know the 78 318 wasnt a powerhouse.....but moreso than the /6. And we dont really know what shape the free engine is in other than "it ran fine". So did our current engine when we bought it two months ago....LOL Not sure which would be less pricey at the end of the day. A reman engine from advanced auto is $2,000. I suppose a rebuild will be just as pricey? There is also the issue of emissions inspections.....where we live its a visual.....in other words if the car is supposed to have a cat and airpump and all the emmssions crap it wont pass without it.....that is easier to keep in place with the current engine. I am so bummed out.....I thought that the slant 6 was "bulletproof".....I was hoping that we could have smooth sailing at least until next spring.....so much for that huh? LOL It sounded fine before, and that is why I was surprised when we opened up the first filter.....that is a lot of metal in there......we were gonna throw the new pump on and see what happens, but that's just kicking the can down the road.....there has to be a spun bearing......and it will grenade, and I dont want it to happen to the kid in the middle of winter etc. Sorry for the long post.....just at a crossroads and I dont do well with crossroads....LOL |
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