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| carter question https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49080 |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:57 pm ] |
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sweet thanks man |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Carb..... |
Quote: i had a 1bbl holley that turned into what resembled a barnacle. dan, is there anyway to prevent "Metal Mould"?
Start by NOT sandblasting the dang castings! That's not only just about as good as melting them down (destroys critically-machined dimensions, etc.) but it takes what started as a smooth, nonporous, passivated surface and makes it a "gritty" porous raw-metal surface just perfect for corrosion. Once the passivation coating has been stripped off, the only way to restore corrosion resistance is to re-passivate the castings. The high-end carburetor refurbishers do this; the mass-production "remanufacturing" hacktories don't bother (and some jokers use spray paint...bzzzt!)
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:16 pm ] |
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Quote: the manifold i have, is the style where the choke would be exposed to open exhaust fumes, and needs the cup underneath the thermostat
That's a '70-'72 exhaust manifold. If you have the cup, make a gasket out of thin crushable high-temperature gasket sheet material (pre-cut no longer available) and install the cup, then install a #1231 Electric choke kit or a stock '70-'72 choke thermostat.If you don't have the cup, make a blockoff plate and gasket and then use the #1231 electric choke kit. |
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| Author: | 64DartGT [ Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:20 pm ] |
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Was gonna ask if any carb companies restore them properly? Can a carb be rebuilt with just a good cleaning then rebuilding as to not damage the coating? |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:10 pm ] |
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dan, thanks, i always thought that this style manifold was an early, thanks for clairfying the year. 64, to be honest, i have ran several rebuilt carbs on several different motors, weather it be chevy, ford, vw... ive been a vw mechanic for 6 years and worked on quite a few different cars few years before, and ive installed plenty rebuilt carbs on customer cars, none ever came back with a corrosion issue. i know exactly what white film dan is talking about, and i usually see it on carbs that have been sitting directly in the weather, and like i said... just sitting. its not somthing i would ever worry about too much, unless you plan on parking it for months on end. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:32 pm ] |
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Today we have alcohol in 95% of the gasoline sold in North America. Alcohol brings water into direct and permanent contact with carburetor metal. We didn't used to have that. Now we do. |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:52 pm ] |
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FOUND THE CHOKE THERMOSTAT!  it had the wrong rod on it, but i did some surgery, and swapped the rod from a different thermostat i had. i couldnt find a good high temp do it your self gasket material, so i just used copper imbedded hightemp silicone. how exactly should the choke be adjusted? also is there a write up on how to tune and adjust mixture screws and such?   
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:09 am ] |
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Scott Smith who owns Harms Automotive in Washington state. He does great work. He isn't cheap. I need to get a new digital camera and take some pics of my rebuilds after use. I somewhat polished a 273 BBD and mounted it on the Duster. I t has been on there for a couple of years. I sometimes think about rebuilding the BBD's and BBS's but wouldn't want to listen to the flaming from nit wits that can't tune a carb. |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:47 am ] |
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I can tune the hell out of dual Ida's on a vw |
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| Author: | 64DartGT [ Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:37 pm ] |
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Choke looks good......great job looks like the one the 273 intake..... |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Wed Jun 27, 2012 1:15 pm ] |
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is there any discussion on how to tune everything the way it needs to be? that manual link posted earlier in this thread, vaguely explains on what needs to be done. the car seems to idle okay, but you can hear something isnt quite right, and with 10-15 mins of idling, it will start to run a bit worse, and eventually die. not sure if its a choke thing, or carb, timing, or valve adjustment issue. or a mixture but i cant really adjust the valves when its hot, because it wont run very well. so my first step is getting the carb and timing set correctly, so i can actually run it, to adjust valves, and then if needed be reset the carb/timing after. i can tune a stock solex, and plenty of aftermarket carbs on a vw. but this is quite a bit different. id really love some help, and what should i be at RPM wise on idle? |
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| Author: | SlantSteve [ Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Carb..... |
Quote: Quote: Nice looking carb.
No, it's not. The castings have been sandblasted. Their anticorrosion coating no longer exists. Before long, this carburetor will be a mess of white powdery "metal mould" corrosion inside. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:45 pm ] |
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Whatever you use, make sure it is compatible with zinc die cast ("Zamak", "pot metal"), which is what Carter carburetors are made of. And do not blast-clean the castings, it is not necessary to attain the necessary cleanliness for passivation treatment. |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Wed Jun 27, 2012 11:20 pm ] |
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any suggestions on my last question? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:42 am ] |
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Quote: the car seems to idle okay, but you can hear something isnt quite right, and with 10-15 mins of idling, it will start to run a bit worse, and eventually die.
Something's heating up. Pop off the distributor cap and put a hot hairdryer on the ignition pickup coil until it's good and hot, then replace the cap and try to start the car. If it won't run, there's your problem. If it will run, shut it off and put the hairdryer on the ignition module until it's good and hot. Try to start the car. If that's not it, put the hairdryer on the ignition coil and repeat the test. If no culprit is found, check for too-tight valve adjustment.
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