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Rebuilding wiring
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49668
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Author:  bbbbbb9 [ Wed Sep 12, 2012 11:46 am ]
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OK Dan, the B terminal from the Alt to Batt has a fuseable link and then branch off to:

Two wires for Ignition both with Fuseable links

Hazard relay with fueable link

Ammeter without fuseable link but with shunt

Battery

Starter relay.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:07 pm ]
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Sounds good...is there a pending question?

Author:  bbbbbb9 [ Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:21 pm ]
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Nothing pending right now except the sizing of the slo blow fuses and we've worked out that a 150 amp should cover the alternator fuseable link. I'll check on sizing the other when I can.

Thanks

Author:  bbbbbb9 [ Sat Oct 06, 2012 6:14 pm ]
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Dan, I see in the HEI retrofit article that we simply remove the ballast resistor and connect the wires from both sides. It seems that this would also connect the "start" and "run" wires from the ignition switch. If this is the case I could connect these two wires just outside of the switch correct?

I ask because with my rewire and it's up grades I need the bulkhead slot for something else to go from underdash to engine compartment.

Thanks

Author:  65 dartman [ Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:55 am ]
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Quote:
OK Dan, the B terminal from the Alt to Batt has a fuseable link and then branch off to:

Two wires for Ignition both with Fuseable links

Hazard relay with fueable link

Ammeter without fuseable link but with shunt

Battery

Starter relay.
That sounds exactly the same as for an 80 Mirada, which is the wiring I will be using for my 65 Dart. I believe the wiring for the ammeter can be eliminated with the appropriate size wire routed through a maxi-fuse within a relay/Maxi-fuse junction box in the engine compartment. It should be the same electrically since the battery positive cable is also routed to the junction box. The other maxi-fuses would replace any fusible links to other components. For Dan and any others, is my thinking correct?

Author:  bbbbbb9 [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:37 am ]
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anybody able to answer my last question?

Author:  KenUSA [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 3:33 pm ]
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That's what I did.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 4:55 pm ]
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Quote:
I believe the wiring for the ammeter can be eliminated with the appropriate size wire routed through a maxi-fuse
Yes, but here again beware of creating significant lengths of hot, unfused wire. A short that occurs downstream of the circuit protector will blow or trip the protector and if it was selected correctly damage will be prevented. A short that occurs upstream of the protector will do extensive damage and could easily start a costly fire.

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