OK, that is more clear. I would try 20:1 and upgrade to 11/16" tie rods (74-77 C-body application bolts up). Also, go through the rest of your front susp and check for anything remotely loose or worn. Also also, think about tire/wheel upgrade if you haven't done that already. There are many more things, but those are the things to start with.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I have heard that the 73+ power steering feels a little more "in the road" than the older power steering but I haven't had the chance to test that out. I have felt 67 power steering and it feels like you're driving a bumper car. You feel like you're hovering an inch off the ground at all times.

I guess you have to make a decision. Is it worth it to spend a few hundred to eliminate 1 turn out of the steering wheel? I personally wouldn't bother with it but we all have our own tastes. I don't know how to do it, but it is possible to get these things to feel a lot like a new car. It just takes a few thousand in modifications and aftermarket parts, but it can be done. Remember though, you're doing this to a 63 Dart, which is not a desirable automobile to the masses. So any expensive mods have to be made because you like the car and you want to make it your own. Otherwise you can put a lot of money into that thing and basically get zilch out of it if you aren't happy with the feeling of it in the end.

Nope. I'm here to tell ya, the '73-up power steering is just as willowy as the '72-down. Only the later ('80s) cop-spec boxes were somewhat less so.
Obviously depends on how much you drive the car, but the 20:1 box made such a big improvement over the (not worn out) 24:1 box in my '62 Lancer. The car is just so much more pleasant to drive. It really is how all the nonpower-steer cars should have come, and in fact it is how all the '60-'61 nonpower-steer cars came.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi SlantSixDan,

Should I go with the Red-Head Steering Gears, Inc. rebuilt 20:1 ratio gearbox for $256 with exchange or the more expensive Steer and Gear 20:1 ratio gearbox which uses the "P4007612 - Mopar Performance Manual Steering Gear Worm and Ball Nut Package" in the aluminum steering box like the OEM version at $645.00 (see Summit Racing for photo)? In other words, is the Mopar stock steering box good enough?

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Racing Dart

I would get the Red-Head item without hesitation if they actually had availability on the 20:1, but they don't. They have only the factory 24:1 ratio (first lady I asked on the phone said "Factory 20:1 ratio", no such thing, so she put me on with the tech who confirmed their boxes are all 24:1).

So, it's gonna be Firm Feel or Steer& Gear.

Note there are two kinds of aluminum steering boxes: with bushings, and with ball bearings. The bushings were used in boxes installed on 6-cylinder cars; the bearings on 8-cylinder cars. They're all interchangeable, but the bearing-type box is a little nicer. If you ask your vendor nicely, he might be willing to specifically provide a bearing-type box for you.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks!
O.K., I'm probably going to go with the Firm Feel, Inc. 20:1 ratio manual steering box with bearings for $299.
Now, there's a bunch of other goodies available for improving steering responsiveness. I'll list them and please tell me in which order you would get them for the best Bang-For-The-Buck:
Tubular Upper Control Arms;
Dynamic Strut Bars;
11/16" Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends;
Solid Tie Rod Adjusting Sleves;
Roller Bearing Idler Arm Kit;
Pitman/Sector Support Kit for K-Frame;
Greasable Lower Control Arm Pivot Pins & Urethane/Nylon Bushings;
etc.

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Racing Dart

Wise pick.
Good ones cost a lot. Bad ones cost your life. If it's time for a front-end rebuild with new bushings and ball joints, then maybe.
"Dynamic" doesn't mean anything as far as I can tell when applied to strut rods. I guess you refer to heim-joint strut rods. I have them on my '73. Would not buy again (noisy, no discernible improvement).
Sure, if you're doing a rebuild, why not upgrade to stronger components.
Show me what you're seeing (links).
Not necessary
NOISY and unpleasantly harsh.

Ahead of anything on your list I'd put big torsion bars, good(!) shock absorbers, good(!) tires, and good front and rear anti-sway bars.

Ahead of those I'd put good brakes and a top-notch suspension and steering system with no slop or slack.

Ahead of those I'd put careful attention to the steering column to steering box coupler joint.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks SlantSixDan,

In regard to:

Dynamic/Adjustable Strut Bars (see CAP, QA1 & P-S-T).

Roller Bearing Idler Arm Kit; and
Pitman/Sector Support Kit for K-Frame (see Firm Feel).

Do you recommend a stock steering column to steering box coupler joint?

What size torsion bars do you recommend for the 225 Slant Six and who makes them? Will they make the ride harsher or just firmer?

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Racing Dart

Yeah...CAP's stuff breaks. Have seen too many stories of it happening ever to touch their stuff. Use your imagination as to what happens after a weld breaks in a suspension component. None for me, thanks, I'm driving.

I stand by my comments about "dynamic" (heim joint) strut rods. Get them if you want, but they're not necessary until you're building up a canyon-carver or other special-purpose vehicle.
Grrr, arrgh, etc…yeah, I can go "see Firm Feel", but c'mon, willya? When people are trying to help you, it's polite to help them do so. Like by posting a link to the product you're looking at. (it's also polite to post messages in the right section of the forum. This is not a "parts wanted" thread and never was; it's a steering/suspension thread).

I'm answering your question anyhow, 'cause you showed me a product I wasn't aware had made it to market: Yes, get the roller bearing idler arm kit; I'm going to. The sector support, I could go either way on. I'd take a hard look at how much flex/movement there is at the steering box mount when operating the steering wheel with the car standing still. K-frames can also be gussetted in this area with a welder. If you have the xtra cash to spend, sure, go for the reinforcement kit.
It's fine if it's in good condition without slop. Rebuild kits are available. You can re-engineer this junction if you really want; see here (start paying attention around post #7...Borgeson joints and such)
If my experience holds for you, they'll make the ride much less "busy" (jittery/jiggly) and not harsh. Of course good(!) shock absorbers are mandatory. It's been years since I bought a set of torsion bars, so I don't have a ready go-to reference. Maybe Firm Feel, maybe ESPO, maybe Just Suspension, maybe somewhere else? Someone here will have a recommendation. I liked the factory V8/aircon torsion bars (892/893 stamped on ends) in my '65.

Another item I forgot to mention: subframe connectors. Get the ones made by USCartool.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks again for all your help SlantSixDan!
I didn't know there was so much to upgrading the steering.
I don't know how to insert links to help you yet. I'm sorry.

Is the Firm Feel "Adjustable Strut Rod" the same thing as a "Dynamic Strut Rod"?

What's a good number for Caster on a street machine with manual steering?

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Racing Dart

A 20:1 aluminum (Chrysler) steering box is probably the best compromise/ "bang for the buck" steering improvement. Part of this work HAS to be checking the steering & suspension for loose/worn parts & replacing as needed. Steering box coupler, pitman-idler arm, tie rods, control arm bushings, ball joints- all have to be in good shape for the steering to "feel" right & be safe.

Also you should have an alignment done with "custom" specifications (as much positive caster possible- I aim for 1.5* but sometimes can only get .75 to 1*- while getting neutral-to-slightly negative camber- you might need special offset upper contol arm bushings to improve adj range.) More positive caster increases tracking "stability", make the steering wheel "self-center" better, but does increase turning effort some. The factory set up the cars so Grandma could drive to bingo on 13" bias tires. So it had some negative caster (easy to steer but "vague" feeling) & positive camber (tracks well on crowned roads but squeals on hard cornering).

I'd consider checking/ repairing/ & alignment BEFORE replacing the box so you have an accurate comparison- & an accurate budget. It'd be a bummer in my book if I spent a chunk of my car budget on a "want" like a 20:1 box only to find out that I "need" ball joints, bushings, & shocks in order to have a safe & reliable car.

A good tire - wheel combo really helps handling, stopping, road feel, etc.

I was able to get the 20:1 conversion parts years ago from Mopar & installed them on a B body steering box for my Dart.(has needle bearings for the pitman shaft vs bushings on the A-body).

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

How much can you bench press?

Seriously, how much time do you spend on highways vs. having to park and manœuvre in town? What size tires are you (will you be) running? How's the upper-body strength of the weakest person who might want (or need) to drive the car?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

All good advice from WagonsRCool, but the V8 A-bodies (and all B-bodies) got the bearing-type steering box. Only 6-cylinder A-bodies got the bushing-type box.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi SlantSixDan,
Just Suspension is having a sale on their
Mopar Pro-Touring Torsion Bars, "Forged to a 1.00" diameter, they deliver the perfect balance of comfort and control." for $199. They're 35" long but 1" Diameter. Is this too thick for the weight of a 225 Slant Six engine?

Firm Feel has three choices, .880", .940" and 1.0" for Street.

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Racing Dart

I ran mopar .920 bars in my 65 valiant for years. They were not harsh at all and I probably could have gone with something stiffer. I would buy the 1.0" bars if I was picking from those choices. $199 isn't a bad price. I think I paid $140 for mine years ago and that was cost +10% from chrysler.

I also have Oreilly motorsports upper control arms with 5 degrees postive caster and you can really feel some effort to turn in a parking. Poly bushings do make lots of noise and I wouldn't buy them again.

If you are adding stiff torsion bars make sure to very carefully inspect the rear torsion bar mount for cracks/rust. The rear mounts are known to break allowing the torsion bar to rotate leaving you with no suspension travel on one side of the car.