There were NOS manifolds that recently went on EBay for $50 buy it now. But those cracks are not new, they have been there for ages, probably stress relief due expansion and contraction.... Provided it isnt cracked thru and leaking,id say It's worth a run, I would be more interested in the condition of the faces, if they are good, go for it, chances are it will live just fine, Steve

All cogent arguments. I am a bit worried, however, on installation. While opinions vary on whether this exhaust manifold is toast or not, you ALL agree that the installation procedure must be adhered to closely to avoid leaks or further cracking. I will be studying the manual before tearing into this. Any other pointers would be greatly appreciated. By the way, the threaded portion of the manifold (that accepts the two outboard screws) had to be drilled out and retapped. Is this the norm? Those were difficult to repair.

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Chinook carrying Gama goat, circa 1983.

Having removed and installed a few of these I would suggest you feel good about whatever you install. If you are good with the cracks or rather a new manifold, your call. As Dan points out it is a back breaking exercise so a new one isn't a bad choice. I think it was Doc who discussed grinding off the casting flash, great idea! If you have a grinder you can smooth out the skin cutting finger manglers...it makes a difference!

DO put the intake/exhaust manifold together on a dead flat surface (I use a table saw iron table for this). DO acquire a forgiving gasket such as the Remflex, etc. DO follow the torque specifications exactly. Use anti-seize as appropriate (i.e. plan for removal). Take two aspirin before the install, it helps...

Try not to do this more than once a year.

It is simple to do this...and yes, the fasteners that are in the manifolds are certain to require replacement. I used honest grade 8's and gobs of anti-seize...

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Slanted D150

When you get the bolts out I re-drill the holes oversize and use long stainless steel bolts lock washers and nuts. It is a much nicer vs stock. I also replace the big bolt with a stainless bolt. For that matter....I take out the exhaust manifold studs at the head pipe and drill that out too and use stainless bolts and lock washers. It makes reassembly go much faster. I don't like bending over any more than I have too. That way you can square up the mating surface if it is pitted.

I have (3) different engines and these little mods makes engine pulling and re installs or manifold changes go much faster.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Raise the car up on jack stands to a more comfortable height.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick