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Bracket Six
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50364		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  StoutSix [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 6:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have no problem gutting a car for weight. I probably wouldn't get a bunch of fiberglass other than a possibly a hood though.

I'll let you know about a distributor when i get that far.

Can anyone give me a name of someone on here that competitively bracket races a 6?
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 6:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Rocker arms
Quote:
I have gone as fast as 12.0's with stock rockers, I know Mike went faster than that. RAS used to sell rebuilt sets with shaft for under $100
Just got a quote from them today. Current price is $185. Also they will regrind your lifters $4 each.

Rick

Gordy Stevens used to race the Heat Seeker duster and was deadly consistent. Not sure I have ever seen him on here.
Ron Hamby, Glenn Terry both National SSRN Champs in the past. Ron is on here from time to time.

There are several others too that are very good Slant 6 bracket racers. I just can't remember their names right now.
Author:  Exner Geek [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Gordy Stevens is still racing and always does well. He runs sportman like you are planning to do. I can put you in touch with him if you send me a PM. Many other have had success bracket racing slant 6s but Gordy is in a class by himself. He doesn't run quite as fast as you are talking about but he knows how to win consistently.
Author:  StoutSix [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Stock Rockers sound good to me.
Author:  StoutSix [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Gordy Stevens is still racing and always does well. He runs sportman like you are planning to do. I can put you in touch with him if you send me a PM. Many other have had success bracket racing slant 6s but Gordy is in a class by himself. He doesn't run quite as fast as you are talking about but he knows how to win consistently.
It appears he races at Thompson which isn't real far from me. Found this.

http://www.stevestanleyphotos.com/images/12-8-4-77.jpg
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:09 pm ]
Post subject:  The trick...
Quote:
I probably wouldn't get a bunch of fiberglass other than a possibly a hood though.
There isn't a big gain in the fenders...but...I would put time into pulling the bumper shocks front and rear bumpers and replacing with angle brackets and fiberglass bumpers (if required) that's good for at least 100-125 lbs right there...The hood would be the next easiest thing to go...(save maybe 20-35 lbs...)

On a 1973-1976 A-body 2 door, the doors are heavy due to the federal crash protection in them...that would be the next component to shave a craplood of weight out of...

:wink:
Author:  ceej [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you get the hood, maximize your weight savings by getting a race weight pin on. I have one of the street weight hoods with lighter springs. The springs broke after just a year, and the weight savings isn't anywhere near that of the pin on.

To get where your wanting to go, without building a real beast of an engine, I'd shoot for under 2500#.

I made bumper mounts that look original for the front, and mounted a glass bumper up front. The weight savings were huge. I can pick the bumper with the mounts on it with one hand to mount it.

As the new car still isn't ready, the Hooptie will go on a diet this winter.

:D

CJ
Author:  StoutSix [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: The trick...
Quote:
Quote:
I probably wouldn't get a bunch of fiberglass other than a possibly a hood though.
There isn't a big gain in the fenders...but...I would put time into pulling the bumper shocks front and rear bumpers and replacing with angle brackets and fiberglass bumpers (if required) that's good for at least 100-125 lbs right there...
On a 1973-1976 A-body 2 door, the doors are heavy due to the federal crash protection in them...that would be the next component to shave a craplood of weight out of...

:wink:
Oh wow. Bumpers are not necessary in that case, lol.

And to be clear, I don't have a car yet. When I signed up it made me put a car in so I put in a car I was going after a couple of weeks ago but sadly missed out on. I prefer a 73-76 for the big bolt pattern and front discs.

Now waiting to find another deal on something similar. I created this thread to ensure that what I wanted to do is feasible, which it appears is.
Author:  StoutSix [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
If you get the hood, maximize your weight savings by getting a race weight pin on. I have one of the street weight hoods with lighter springs. The springs broke after just a year, and the weight savings isn't anywhere near that of the pin on.
I drove a 10 second Monte Carlo for someone all year this year and it has full pin on, don't care for it but the weight savings is a lot and they're usually half the price from what I've seen in the past. I definitely won't do a glass deck lid. Unpinning and lifting it off to put fuel in is annoying, haha.
Author:  StoutSix [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 11:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Yep...
Quote:
If your leaf springs are in good shape I've gotten a 275/55/R15 under the rear wells in my'76 duster with about 2" bulge out and no mods needed other than making sure you do have good leaf springs (5 leaf min).
What size wheel and backspacing? I would want a 275/60/r15 to be tucked, which can be accomplished without cutting from what I have been reading. I decided this thing wouldn't have enough power to worry about anything bigger than a 9" slick or 275/60.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Wed Nov 21, 2012 5:48 am ]
Post subject:  Lol...
Quote:
What size wheel and backspacing?
I'm using a set of vintage American Racing Aluminum Rims I got on Craigslist. 15x10 for the rears, backspacing is same as stock mopar wheels (4.25-4.5" I think). The guy used them on a 70's road runner back in the day.

-D.Idiot
Author:  StoutSix [ Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Lol...
Quote:
Quote:
What size wheel and backspacing?
I'm using a set of vintage American Racing Aluminum Rims I got on Craigslist. 15x10 for the rears, backspacing is same as stock mopar wheels (4.25-4.5" I think). The guy used them on a 70's road runner back in the day.

-D.Idiot
So if it was an 8" rim with 5.5" BS it would be tucked or at least not bulging out, correct? Pretty much what I was thinking would be best. That or a 10" with 6.5" BS.
Author:  slantzilla [ Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:31 am ]
Post subject: 
Be careful with your backspacing. You will run into the spring if you have any sidewall bulge around 5.5" or so. :shock:
Author:  StoutSix [ Wed Nov 21, 2012 8:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Indeed, offset kit for the win. :D

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... 036&page=2

This has been the best looking duster stance I've seen with no cutting. He had the rear end narrowed to fit a smaller backspace for a deeper dish, but other than that as I understand, you could have less dish and more BS and still have the same appearance.

This car looks bad ass.
Author:  Mroldfart2u [ Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:18 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Gear
Quote:
Quote:
Will Burns' barracuda must have a ton of gear, 11.70's @ 105 where most 12.0 cars run 112.
Not as much as you might think.
Depends on where he lifts..... If he lifts righ at light could chop 5-7 mph, ran all the way out back door maybe a different mph....
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