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Burnt wire and Contact Point https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50656 |
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Author: | Fopar [ Tue Jan 01, 2013 1:18 pm ] |
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That is the screw you need to losten and there is nothing in the triangular hole that is only a place to wedge the screwdriver and be able to move the points open or close for the gap. Richard |
Author: | viasloth [ Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:59 pm ] |
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Oh ok I miss understood haha sorry. But like I said before the gap doesn't change when i do that unless its not on a high point. So i must be doing something wrong haha |
Author: | WagonsRcool [ Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:25 pm ] |
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Breaker points, what are those? (if they're broken, how do you fix them ) If you look closely, you can see the little "V" notch on the points at the triangle-hole. You loosen the points hold-down screw slightly, then use the blade of the screwdriver in the hole to twist against the notch on the points. This allows you to make minor adjustments to the points before "locking it down". As others have said, the points need to open only when on the high points of the rubbing block, then close fully on the "low spots". |
Author: | viasloth [ Wed Jan 02, 2013 10:49 am ] |
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Quote: Breaker points, what are those? (if they're broken, how do you fix them )
Yeah I tryed that too but the gap only opens more when i do that, and i cant move it the other direction because of a little stopper right there by the base.
If you look closely, you can see the little "V" notch on the points at the triangle-hole. You loosen the points hold-down screw slightly, then use the blade of the screwdriver in the hole to twist against the notch on the points. This allows you to make minor adjustments to the points before "locking it down". As others have said, the points need to open only when on the high points of the rubbing block, then close fully on the "low spots". |
Author: | Fopar [ Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:24 am ] |
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OK what I see in your picture is what looks like the end of the vaccum advance sticking through backing plate enough to block the points from closing. My guess is you might remove the advance unit and file or grind off a bit of the round pin. Richard |
Author: | viasloth [ Wed Jan 02, 2013 1:02 pm ] |
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Oh ok. So its not actually suppose to stick up like that? I though it was just some kind of bumber basically. So i have to pull out the distributor to do that im guessing? |
Author: | Slanted Opinion [ Wed Jan 02, 2013 3:39 pm ] |
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Pull the distributor. Be sure to put the rotor back on and note EXACTLY where it is pointing before removing the distributor. I find it easiest to rotate the engine until the rotor points to 3 o'clock, then pull the distributor. Once the distributor is out be sure not to rotate the engine. On e you have it out and held gently in a vice I believe you will be able to fix all the issues quite easily. Set the points, put it back in the car, and start it up! - Mac |
Author: | 64ragtop [ Wed Jan 02, 2013 3:45 pm ] |
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Somewhere in the Brit video posted earlier http://www.glenngoodspeed.com/volvo/POINTS.HTM he shows taking the plate out. Might help. Or, like Mac suggested, pull the dizzy and get a good look at it. Just be sure you put it back in the same position & don't bump the engine while it's out! ATB BC |
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