Slant Six Forum :: 225 taking a header into the toilet

It is winter too, carburated cars do not like run cold. Is this MPG weather related too? Is the manifold heat riser working?

I put the Lisle brand vacuum gauge on the preheater Carb nipple and got 17-18"HG at curb idle when warm.

Quote:

It is winter too, carburated cars do not like run cold. Is this MPG weather related too? Is the manifold heat riser working?

That is an important point!
Winter the mileage goes down, summer it goes back up on a stock slant six.
1. Make sure the heat riser pivots freely.
2. Make sure the float is not too high......during heat soak you will loose a bit of fuel on each shut off.
3. Make your self a heat shield for the carb. Make it as big as possible to keep heat away from the carb during heat soak. That will reduce the evaporation of fuel and vapor locking.
4. Make sure the choke is pulling all the way back after the engine warms up.
5. Do Dan's fuel line mod to keep the gas from percolating/boiling.

Getting better mileage
1. I find that I get better mileage using the aluminum manifolds. They warm up much quicker for better atomization and the carb doesn't use the choke as long.
2. A bigger heat shield to keep the manifold warmer and carb colder.
3. Electric fans help let the engine warm up faster. This really helps on short commutes by not having cold air blowing over the intake.
4. A good heat stove hooked up to the air cleaner for those super cold winter days help through the transition period (first 15 minutes).
5. Once warmed up, a good source of cold ram air for the carb.

Quote:

I put the Lisle brand vacuum gauge on the preheater Carb nipple and got 17-18"HG at curb idle when warm.

1. A good way to get better vacuum and mileage is to run more valve lash .012 and .022 on the stock cam. This seems to really help the low end torque and for producing solid vacuum readings. If your seeing 18" out of gear you should see at least 16"+ in gear.

5. How about some dryer duct from Home Depot or something? I want to use the snorkel so what diameter? Richen Fuel mixture?

Quote:

5. How about some dryer duct from Home Depot or something? I want to use the snorkel so what diameter? Richen Fuel mixture?

Just use the stock flex duct for an 80's car......it comes with clamps on both ends. Our auto parts store had the stock flex hose in stock. The RV bulkhead fitting is 3".

I wouldn't richen the fuel mixture in the winter. I am running a #56 jet in the Holley R7585 Economaster. I run it on the lean side......

When I asked about A/F ratio shouldn't it be richer when I add a cold air duct?

Quote:

When I asked about A/F ratio shouldn't it be richer when I add a cold air duct?

No, it should not be richer.

Sorry to hear about the mishap. That reminds me of my Christmas present last year. The last day of work I went out to the parking lot to go home and a brand new F150 drove into the side of my car while he was backing out. He left a nice long crease down the side with his front bumper from the door on back and pushed the wheel well area in so far that it rubbed the tire and I couldn't move. Luckily I found a pallet and ripped it apart while my anger level was at an all time high and pried the fender out with one of the boards so I could drive home. The old guy...... said he only did $200 in damage.....the insurance company totaled my car and that is another story as you say......

Hope everything works out.

Author:	VDART [ Sun Feb 24, 2013 7:48 am ]
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like was stated before --you need a local slanter to assist you-- since all of your work has decreased performance. very difficult to fix this without actually being there with the car. or start tackling the tune-up procedures yourself. Lawrence

Author:	ILMopars [ Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:22 am ]
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The car idles smoother and is in much better than it was obviously. I think that the guy who did all the time consuming work has been screwing me and blowing smoke up my arse while trying to say he's my best friend. The guy who is building my 440, and his two sons are slant enthusiasts, but he is the one that is telling me "don't worry about it, and just drive the car."

Author:	Rug_Trucker [ Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:36 am ]
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I guess you need to tell us where you live in Obamaland. Then you can get some localized help.

Author:	ILMopars [ Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:51 am ]
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Illinois would be a nicer place to live if idiot were nor putting bigger idiots in charge. I voted against half the people who actually got into office up here. Well my town is Gurnee...

Author:	slantzilla [ Sun Feb 24, 2013 2:09 pm ]
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I am on the far south edge of Crook County. There are a few Slanters in the area, but not too many.

Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/

225 taking a header into the toilet https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51197	Page 2 of 3

Author:	64ragtop [ Sun Feb 24, 2013 2:45 pm ]
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Welcome to the forum. All good advice given so far. I believe Aggressive Ted is our mileage champ, and his car is no slouch. I suggest reading his story. Rebushing the throttle shaft is high on the list, 'cause they are vacuum leaks and they vary somewhat. This makes for inconsistent poor performance. 1920 Manual HERE. More 1920 links in the FAQ in the engine forum. ATB BC

Author:	ILMopars [ Sun Feb 24, 2013 5:38 pm ]
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I put the Lisle brand vacuum gauge on the preheater Carb nipple and got 17-18"HG at curb idle when warm. I put it into gear at idle and it goes into the "Late Valve Timing" area. I don't know what to give for info but this is a start.

Author:	cpslntdchrg [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:46 am ]
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ILMopars, welcome. I new in the forum, but I looked info for carbs, and I found a lot of info. Take a look on the links other mebers reccomended previously. I also found very interesting this one: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... sc&start=0 I guess the big trouble is vacuum and gradual clogging of the carb internals with gas gunk. Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner or propane torch. Vacuum leaks affects the idle, so almost everybody tries not to fix the vacuum but to set the gas-air mix richer on gasoline, which should reduce MPG. In the previous link you will notice the carb can be regulated via two screws: Idle fuel and air bleed adjust screws (the latest one can be found in some carbs, I have one with, one without. This one is supposed to be factory adjusted, for new carb and car specs). I do not know how much your mechanic screwed them (literally) but you might need adjust both. Try to fix the original carb (and rebushing it) before trying a remanufactured one (few are reman with enough care), and always keep your older carb; you might find pieces missing in the remanufactured ones (i.e.: I have one fuel baffle and 3 carbs) It is winter too, carburated cars do not like run cold. Is this MPG weather related too? Is the manifold heat riser working? Unstuck it spraying the shaft with the Mopar solvent as SlantSixDan reccomends: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ent#124116 I tried it, it worked for unstucking the valve... When the basics are solved, you can follow Aggressive Ted work, using a better carb (1920 economaster), removing power wasters (i.e. belted fan), air intake, etc... Good luck, and take your time for some reading...

Author:	cpslntdchrg [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:24 am ]
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And I forgot to add... did you write messed up linkage? I also saw here something about trouble when linkage is not properly adjusted (I guess slippage if the kick down linkage is not properly set, my apologies I don't remember the link). For troubleshooting: could you recall how the MPG decreased with each visit/modification?

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:53 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: It is winter too, carburated cars do not like run cold. Is this MPG weather related too? Is the manifold heat riser working? That is an important point! Winter the mileage goes down, summer it goes back up on a stock slant six. 1. Make sure the heat riser pivots freely. 2. Make sure the float is not too high......during heat soak you will loose a bit of fuel on each shut off. 3. Make your self a heat shield for the carb. Make it as big as possible to keep heat away from the carb during heat soak. That will reduce the evaporation of fuel and vapor locking. 4. Make sure the choke is pulling all the way back after the engine warms up. 5. Do Dan's fuel line mod to keep the gas from percolating/boiling. Getting better mileage 1. I find that I get better mileage using the aluminum manifolds. They warm up much quicker for better atomization and the carb doesn't use the choke as long. 2. A bigger heat shield to keep the manifold warmer and carb colder. 3. Electric fans help let the engine warm up faster. This really helps on short commutes by not having cold air blowing over the intake. 4. A good heat stove hooked up to the air cleaner for those super cold winter days help through the transition period (first 15 minutes). 5. Once warmed up, a good source of cold ram air for the carb. Quote: I put the Lisle brand vacuum gauge on the preheater Carb nipple and got 17-18"HG at curb idle when warm. 1. A good way to get better vacuum and mileage is to run more valve lash .012 and .022 on the stock cam. This seems to really help the low end torque and for producing solid vacuum readings. If your seeing 18" out of gear you should see at least 16"+ in gear.

Author:	ILMopars [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:32 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: It is winter too, carburated cars do not like run cold. Is this MPG weather related too? Is the manifold heat riser working? That is an important point! Winter the mileage goes down, summer it goes back up on a stock slant six. 1. Make sure the heat riser pivots freely. 2. Make sure the float is not too high......during heat soak you will loose a bit of fuel on each shut off. 3. Make your self a heat shield for the carb. Make it as big as possible to keep heat away from the carb during heat soak. That will reduce the evaporation of fuel and vapor locking. 4. Make sure the choke is pulling all the way back after the engine warms up. 5. Do Dan's fuel line mod to keep the gas from percolating/boiling. Getting better mileage 1. I find that I get better mileage using the aluminum manifolds. They warm up much quicker for better atomization and the carb doesn't use the choke as long. 2. A bigger heat shield to keep the manifold warmer and carb colder. 3. Electric fans help let the engine warm up faster. This really helps on short commutes by not having cold air blowing over the intake. 4. A good heat stove hooked up to the air cleaner for those super cold winter days help through the transition period (first 15 minutes). 5. Once warmed up, a good source of cold ram air for the carb. Quote: I put the Lisle brand vacuum gauge on the preheater Carb nipple and got 17-18"HG at curb idle when warm. 1. A good way to get better vacuum and mileage is to run more valve lash .012 and .022 on the stock cam. This seems to really help the low end torque and for producing solid vacuum readings. If your seeing 18" out of gear you should see at least 16"+ in gear. 1. Heat Riser is free. 2. Not sure about float setting, I did not set it. 3. I will have to try the Heat shield thing 4. Choke is working fine. 1. I will need to find a good aluminum manifold. 2. Again, I will make a heatshield if I find some scrap metal around. 3. Car is used for about 414 miles at least, each week, 50 miles of which each day are highway use of speeds 55-80mph. 4. Has factory stove pipe, pipe was replaced in August 2012 5. How about some dryer duct from Home Depot or something? I want to use the snorkel so what diameter? Richen Fuel mixture?

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:04 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: 5. How about some dryer duct from Home Depot or something? I want to use the snorkel so what diameter? Richen Fuel mixture? Just use the stock flex duct for an 80's car......it comes with clamps on both ends. Our auto parts store had the stock flex hose in stock. The RV bulkhead fitting is 3". I wouldn't richen the fuel mixture in the winter. I am running a #56 jet in the Holley R7585 Economaster. I run it on the lean side......

Author:	ILMopars [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:42 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: 5. How about some dryer duct from Home Depot or something? I want to use the snorkel so what diameter? Richen Fuel mixture? Just use the stock flex duct for an 80's car......it comes with clamps on both ends. Our auto parts store had the stock flex hose in stock. The RV bulkhead fitting is 3". I wouldn't richen the fuel mixture in the winter. I am running a #56 jet in the Holley R7585 Economaster. I run it on the lean side...... When I asked about A/F ratio shouldn't it be richer when I add a cold air duct? Or am I mistaken, that is what I meant. Well I'll do what I can for now, but the car got backed into a stone mailbox by persons unknown other than myself, so I am dealing with a lot. I gotta get the bumper straightened and rechromed, and a new lense for the right, but that is another story for another thread.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:19 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: When I asked about A/F ratio shouldn't it be richer when I add a cold air duct? No, it should not be richer. Sorry to hear about the mishap. That reminds me of my Christmas present last year. The last day of work I went out to the parking lot to go home and a brand new F150 drove into the side of my car while he was backing out. He left a nice long crease down the side with his front bumper from the door on back and pushed the wheel well area in so far that it rubbed the tire and I couldn't move. Luckily I found a pallet and ripped it apart while my anger level was at an all time high and pried the fender out with one of the boards so I could drive home. The old guy...... said he only did $200 in damage.....the insurance company totaled my car and that is another story as you say...... Hope everything works out.

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Author:	ILMopars [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:22 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: When I asked about A/F ratio shouldn't it be richer when I add a cold air duct? No, it should not be richer. Sorry to hear about the mishap. That reminds me of my Christmas present last year. The last day of work I went out to the parking lot to go home and a brand new F150 drove into the side of my car while he was backing out. He left a nice long crease down the side with his front bumper from the door on back and pushed the wheel well area in so far that it rubbed the tire and I couldn't move. Luckily I found a pallet and ripped it apart while my anger level was at an all time high and pried the fender out with one of the boards so I could drive home. The old guy...... said he only did $200 in damage.....the insurance company totaled my car and that is another story as you say...... Hope everything works out. OK, well just wanted to make sure we were on the same page. Thanks.