| Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| Port matching and polishing https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51235 |
Page 2 of 4 |
| Author: | jhdeval [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
This is the head I have to work with. Does it look like a good candidate for porting and polishing? I do see some light surface rust and definitely some casting imperfections. It also appears the previous owner blew piston number 2 and it sprayed all over the combustion chamber. I am figuring since I am porting and polishing I can polish that off with everything else. Rear (Firewall side)  Front (Radiator side) 
|
|
| Author: | DadTruck [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
unless you are really familiar with where the water jackets are and typical wall thickness,, be easy on it,, and are you putting in oversized valves? If so, get the seats roughed in before you start grinding and you will have a better idea of what can be done in the bowl. Finally, wear a respirator when using the grinder,, |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I am going to go easy really just clean up. I am not sure about the gasket matching yet. Does this look like a good candidate though? |
|
| Author: | DadTruck [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
if the head came off a running vehicle,, and you know it wasn't blowing coolant or had other issues... it is probably as good as any other head.. if the head came from an unknown motor,,, I would have it hot tanked and checked for cracks before I put much into it. some folks like the drool tube heads, some like the peanut heads, some like the late lighter castings,, they all have + and - to them. |
|
| Author: | wjajr [ Fri Mar 01, 2013 5:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
When I ported and gasket matched my head, I did all the grinding, bowl work and wart removal before machine shop installed larger valves, hardened seats, trued up manifold surface, and shaved for more compression. All he did was blend from the new cut to my work, and If I had to work in the bowl post valve job I would have most likely nicked one of the freshly ground seats. |
|
| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Fri Mar 01, 2013 5:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Small-B ... 0879385472 |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Fri Mar 01, 2013 7:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: When I ported and gasket matched my head, I did all the grinding, bowl work and wart removal before machine shop installed larger valves, hardened seats, trued up manifold surface, and shaved for more compression. All he did was blend from the new cut to my work, and If I had to work in the bowl post valve job I would have most likely nicked one of the freshly ground seats.
I agree about nicking the valve seat but I do understand the interest in getting it cleaned and pressure tested.
|
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Mon Mar 04, 2013 5:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
How my progress? Does this look right? It's not done yet just checking. 
|
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Anyone? |
|
| Author: | DadTruck [ Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
a journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step,, so you have started. Thats good, now figure out where you want to go and the tools necessary to get there. if you want to polish the combustion chamber, I have found that cartridge rolls and flapper wheels do a nice job,, however to not gum em up, one would need to clean away the carbon from the work piece before proceding. In lieu of hot tanking to remove the gunk; elbow grease and one of the following such as:, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, purple power, oven cleaner, pine sol,,, and hot water and a scrub brush would do the job. you will need compressed air to blow it off well to dry, then hit it with a light oil to add a RP. be advised that polishing the combustion chamber makes the head look pretty,, but has low to no return as far as performance. |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes I know about the little gain the hope is to help prevent or limit carbon build up. As for the carbon I have found a light touch with a high grit grinding stone has done wonders. I then come back with sandpaper rolls to bring the surface down. By the way the chamber I took the picture of is the one in my early picture with all the piston crude in it. |
|
| Author: | DadTruck [ Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
great, post on your progress 
|
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Tue Mar 05, 2013 8:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thank you. I plan on continued updates. Hopefully it will turn out as well as that chamber did. |
|
| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The flapper wheels are fun to play with. Different sizes for different areas. From the plug over towards the exhaust try to imagine the flow of the mixture. Check the head gasket marks and open up the shrouded areas around the valves. Your next tools is Vaseline, plexiglass, and a huge syringe. That is so you can CC the chambers! Go to Lowe's where they cut the glass and plexiglass. They may have a free piece of scrap you can get. Drill a hole in it so you can inject tranny fluid into it with it sealed on the head. Tractor supply has cow sized syringes so you can measure how many CC's of fluid you put in there. 
|
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I gotta get a spring compressor tool to remove the valves. Nothing I have seems to want to work and give me access. I like the CCing idea. I am looking to try and keep them as close to similiar as I can correct? |
|
| Page 2 of 4 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|