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85 truck wiring fun
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Author:  xjarhead [ Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:02 pm ]
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I know that the male connectors for the bulkhead connector are available.
I dont know about the female connectors because i did not have to rewire inside the truck.
Take one of each with you to Napa to match them up.
The last time i was there we went thru their book and on one page all the diffeerent connectors had the same part number!!! Ooops. Make's finding things little interesting.
Now i wish i had kept the receipts for that project.

EDIT: I will look when i get home i may still have some terminals left in the boxes with part numbers.
EDIT: I don't have any of the terminals left.

Dave

Author:  xjarhead [ Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:07 pm ]
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Plan now what you want to put on relays.
You can save little cash on wire by running 18ga wire from the bulkhead to the relays.
You dont need anything heavier then that to activate the relay.

Dave

Author:  64ragtop [ Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:48 pm ]
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Now I understand the buss bar you made up. I completely overlooked that your truck is an '85 and Ehrenberg's article says the shunt ammeter came in about ten years before your truck was built.
At least I said that I might be wrong. Not the first time, and probably not the last.
The resistance of your new shunt should match the old one for accurate ammeter (voltmeter) readings. How to get that resistance while keeping the current capability of the charge wire is a mystery to me.

BC

Author:  carlherrnstein [ Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:26 am ]
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There is a small resistance in all wiring I most likely will fine tune it by starting out with a 6 inch peice of #4 wire with lugs soldered on the ends and put it in series with the main power feed and see how it does if it dosent read enough ill make one a little longer, my ammeter doesnt have amps charging or discharging on it it just has a C and D with lines so i think ill just try to get it so it shows a charge when it whould be charging and a discharge when it should be discharging.

I went to napa yesterday and asked the guy if they could get the terminals i needed he pulled out his book and we looked through till i found a chrysler male spade connector that looked right and i ordered a pack of 25 the guy said its a chrysler part number 3843386 If anyone needs to know. I just checked amazon they have them for about half the price of napa.... owell

Author:  carlherrnstein [ Tue May 07, 2013 10:30 am ]
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I have been looking for a fuse/relay combo and cant really find what im lookin for a lot of the fuse boxes iv found on amazon take the ATO type fues and cant handle a whole lot of current .I would like to find one that takes the maxi fuses so I can replace the whole octopus fuse link thing with it. I have looked at some fuse boxes in the junkyard but i dont really want to have to un-crimp and clean re-crimp and solder those large 4 or 6 gauge wires and connectors.

Has anyone run across a well made fuse block that takes maxi fuses is reasonably weather resistant and has solid electrical connections?

Author:  Ssg Pohlman [ Wed May 08, 2013 4:04 am ]
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The first three that comes to mind for easy to get and simple layout would be: the Dodge caravan, then the BMW 325's have it in the trunk, and thent he Saabs like the 9three's. Its usually just under the hood on the driver fender? Been about 2 years since Ive been through the yards so I couldnt say what fuses they hold or how many. Worth a look though.
Pohlman

Author:  carlherrnstein [ Sat Mar 25, 2017 1:30 pm ]
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Wow how time flies. I started another job and the truck got put on the back burner for a while (close to 4 years. Anyway I got in it yesterday to try to start it. Poured gas in the carb cranked it for about 4 sec and it rumbled to life. Runs and idles on all 6 I am very surprised considering it has sat outside the whole time. However the elves didn't fix the wiring disaster so the lights are somewhat dodgy (pun not intended) I will need to go to a pull it yard to check out the power distribution boxes.

Author:  Reed [ Sat Mar 25, 2017 6:39 pm ]
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Quote:
the lights are somewhat dodgy
:wink: On my 76 D100 I have enough original hood letters to spell "D-O-D-G" and I am going to replace the "E" with a "Y."

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