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| Need help with wiring alternator after pitching leanburn sys https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51561 |
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| Author: | WagonsRcool [ Wed May 29, 2013 4:29 pm ] |
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Quote: I still don't understand why a field wire from the alternator runs to the ballast resistor as the primary voltage source.
That connection at the ballast is the "upstream" side that should have battery voltage with the key in "run" position (blue wire). That circuit goes to the ballast, to the VR, & to one field terminal on the alternator (it supplies steady power to the field)- the other field terminal (green wire) goes back to the VR- which varies/controls the ground for the field.
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Wed May 29, 2013 6:38 pm ] |
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WagonsRcool, Along that line of thought...... The blue wire doesn't carry enough amperage to power and HEI can it? I realize it has enough juice to power points and the stock MOPAR ECU. How much amperage is the blue wire capable of delivering? Most diagrams have you going to the large alternator output stud that goes to the battery routed through a relay that is triggered by the ignition switch to fire the HEI. So if you have a 100 amp alternator, you could provide a 100 amps to the HEI module. |
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| Author: | WagonsRcool [ Thu May 30, 2013 12:32 pm ] |
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HEI system does pull a few more amps overall compared to older points or mopar electonic ignition- but not huge. Almost every (40+ yr old) mopar has voltage drops in the wiring- some at bulkhead connection for power to car as well as ign wire to eng, some at ign switch itself- it all adds up. The relay is always suggested because it's the easiest way to insure full battery voltage to HEI system |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu May 30, 2013 3:06 pm ] |
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So can you power an HEI off the 14 gauge blue wire? since it is right at the alternator and voltage regulator? or do you have to come off the alternator output stud with 10 gauge wire like GM does? |
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