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Electric Fan Survey
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51589		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Ssg Pohlman [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 7:58 pm ]
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Just to add a small part in this, Copper is a better heat transfer medium than aluminum. Thought the alum rads are lighter. Still running the OE 51' copper in my chev :shock:

As another option, Ive seen fans placed in the OE shroud so that it will pull from the entire rad instead of just where the fan is mounted. It is mounted on the opening where the old fan pokes through. Obviously if the old fan hole was say 14" then I would try for close to that so that it fits the opening well.

As for the ford taurus fan, that thing is a beast! had one on my toyota and never even thought about hooking up the high side. but as they say, it will suck some serious current as well.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:06 pm ]
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FrankRaso,
Quote:
Aggressive Ted: I had thought about using relays and temperature switches to control a pair of fans but, since I'm currently using a 195°F thermostat, I haven't yet found a pair of suitable temperature switches. If a pair of NPT temperature switches cost ~$35 a piece, the $49.95 (Summit Racing) Hayden PN 3654 dual fan controller makes more sense.
I would only use one fan switch screwed into the radiator, not two...
After experimenting with the 210 switch and the 180 switch, I prefer to use the 180 switch with a 160 stat. Remember were looking at the radiator tank temp. Not the engine temp which is always in the sweet spot (160 to 180 degrees) for good mileage.

On the 210 switch, it works fine with a 195 stat......but a 195 is too hot to run in the spring summer and fall. It's fine for the winter on super frigid days....all though my 180 stat kept me warm just fine all winter this year. It would start pumping heat a mile from home.
Author:  FrankRaso [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:09 am ]
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One of the benefits of running 2 fans (no clearance for a single 16" or 17" fan in my car) is the possibility of staggered operation - 1st fan kicks and then, if water temperature continues to rise, the 2nd fan kicks in. I think 1-fan operation would sufficient most of the time around here.

According to Stant's FAQ, their thermostats starts to open at the rated temperature ±2°F and they're usually fully opened at 15-20°F above the opening temperature. With 160° thermostat with a 180° fan switch, I have to agree that your 160-180° operation is probably not optimum for fuel economy. My understanding is that higher engine temperatures improve fuel economy although I'm not sure that there is an easily measurable improvement going from 180° to 195° or to 205°. This would be a good project for the Penn College of Technology's 'Dyno Dart'.

I hadn't planned on adding a temperature switch to my upper tank because it's not equipped with any bosses (1965 rad). If I had to take the head off, I thought I would tap an extra 1/8" NPT hole but, until then, I would probably tee-into the 5/8" hose to the heater core.

When the thermostat opens, I would expect that the upper tank would be very close to the engine temperature. Heat transfer improves with an increasing temperature difference so, unless you have octane and/or pressure issues, I'm not sure why a 195°F thermostat would be too hot in the summer. If your rad can remain within 20° of 160°F on a hot day, it should be even easier for it to remain within 20° of 195°F.

I couldn't find 200° Wells TS217 - has it been superseded? Any other PNs for 200° and 210° temperature switches? Is there a 205° switch?
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:27 am ]
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Quote:
I couldn't find 200° Wells TS217 - has it been superseded? Any other PNs for 200° and 210° temperature switches? Is there a 205° switch?
I can still get the switch, it is a GM/Wells part number. but if you don't have the boss you need too go with something else. The 195 is just hell on heat soak on 100 plus degree days and the fans run too long at lights.

With a 180 stat it the engine still can creep up to 200 degrees in traffic on hot days or at lights. With a 195 degree stat it can creep up to 240 sitting 4 hours in traffic.

The idea of running the 180 stat is it is perfect here in the Northwest. SL6 Dan mentioned it awhile back as being better then the 195, so I gave it a try and again Dan is right on!
Less crud build up on the back of the valves, more power, less chance of pinging on super hot days with lots of timing. Mileage is super, 22.5 to 25 plus miles per gallon, which is good for a shot 260,000 plus mile engine that sat in a barn covered in hay for 10 years. My car is very heavy 3,600 with me in it, but is generally loaded when going over the mountain passes. 2.76 8 3/4 rear and 26" tall tires and it runs very well and has lots more power with the 180 stat. The 195 gives me a flat feel once it gets that hot loaded going over the pass.
Quote:
My understanding is that higher engine temperatures improve fuel economy although I'm not sure that there is an easily measurable improvement going from 180° to 195° or to 205°.
I thought the same thing, but theory is one thing, actuals over the last 10 years haven't proved that out between 3 different engines, including my 9.5 to 1 torque build.

I have mounted the fans low and high, I still like them the best at the top of the tank. They keep the carb cooler, run less because they are right at the heat source, and the air dam shoves enough air into the bottom even at slow speeds to keep the fans off 90% of the time.
Author:  FrankRaso [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 11:10 am ]
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Quote:
With a 180 stat it the engine still can creep up to 200 degrees in traffic on hot days or at lights. With a 195 degree stat it can creep up to 240 sitting 4 hours in traffic.
Are you sure that your temperature gauge wasn't reading 240° when the water temperature was actually 215°? The thermostat should be wide open at this point so it doesn't make sense that the water temperature would gain another 25° only because of a hotter thermostat.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:00 pm ]
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Yes, I have a new 2 5/8 Stewart & Warner temp gauge.....not using the factory gauge except for reference.

Also a Temp gauge on the thermostat cap. I can watch the block temp climb before the thermostat pops then watch the temp come up in the upper tank temp gauge.

With the 16" fan mounted too low it will climb and hold for a long time on super hot days parked on black top, stuck in traffic for hours.

I do not have a problem with the 180 stat and the two 10" fans mounted high next to the tank. Block temps stay reasonable, up to 200 degrees, depending where you measure. The fans run much less.
Author:  dakight [ Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:22 am ]
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Quote:
I had an electric fan off an escort mounted in front of the rad. It freewheeled itself to death before I ever turned it on. I removed it and went fanless for a number of years. Stock rad.....no city driving.
I don't think I'd try that here in Arizona.
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:37 am ]
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Here's a link to SMP Illustrated Guide V2:
http://www.pageturnpro.com/Four-Seasons ... ex.html#/1

(you can download a pdf copy from there if you want)

Online stuff might be more up-to-date, but I prefer old-fashioned paper catalogs for this kind of searching.
Author:  FrankRaso [ Mon May 13, 2013 8:47 am ]
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I found another source of temperature switches so that you can build your own staged, dual-fan controller with a couple of relays. A 195°F thermostat should be fully open at about 210-215°F so I could use a 210°F PN 76317 and a 220°F PN 76318.
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/42/T ... -Switches/

Another alternative I found is to use a computer-controlled electric fan controller as detailed by Tom Jennings on his 1963 Rambler American. He used an Arduino microcontroller.
http://www.wps.com/AMC/195.6OHV/Electri ... index.html
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Mon May 13, 2013 12:05 pm ]
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Pretty nice setup but very expensive. Too bad we can't get the same controllers from the junkyard.

I have a little less than a $100 in the fans, switch, relay, and wiring. It has worked very well through the years. It is pretty nice since the system never runs during the winter months on a SL6.
Author:  FrankRaso [ Mon May 13, 2013 3:05 pm ]
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The cheapest dual fan controller option seems to be the Hayden PN 3654.
Author:  olafla [ Mon May 13, 2013 6:50 pm ]
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A temp switch mounted in an in-hose adapter in the lower hose, is a possible solution if you don't want to start drilling holes in your radiator. It can also be used in combination with a top tank mounted temp switch, and with two fans that can be run individually, most cooling situations should be covered to give a 'soft' cooling without the big variations in temperature.

I have a single 16" fan that I am going to install now, and I'll use the solution descibed, with 2 temp switches and 2 (or 3) relays. The 3rd relay can be used to make a summer/winter switch by swithing priority between the temp switches. Running off the lower switch in winter will probably not start the fan very often, but then I live in a relatively cool climate zone. I would also have preferred two fans, but the price I got on the 16" was to good!

Olaf
Author:  emsvitil [ Mon May 13, 2013 7:43 pm ]
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I used an adjustable one for my truck

http://www.jcwhitney.com/engine-cooling ... 00903.jcwx
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