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| Blown vacuum advance pod / distributor recurve https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51710 |
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| Author: | BUCKET 636 [ Tue Aug 06, 2013 8:04 pm ] |
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Thanks Steve. I was looking at other spring kits but wasn't sure what to get and if there was a certain length spring required. Doesn't seem to be much available over here in Australia. |
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| Author: | SlantSteve [ Tue Aug 06, 2013 8:19 pm ] |
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I know what you mean,I had this spring kit left over from an old Mallory dissy I did years ago,most springs weren't the correct length but some did the trick.If you can't get the correct spring kit sent over from the guys in the US just let me know,I'm happy to mail this kit up to you and see if you can use something I it ,just send back what you don't use.Cheers,Steve |
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| Author: | Sprag [ Wed Aug 07, 2013 6:23 am ] |
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Quote: Finally got that screw off. R13 governor and the springs looks like this:
Thanks for the pics and conversation, this helps, I've yet to delve into this. Please tell me how we determine which governor is in there. Is the "R13" stamped somewhere that I don't see or is that determined by crossing the numbers on the weights?  Is there a reference somewhere that tells us which governor does what?
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| Author: | xjarhead [ Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:19 am ] |
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Quote: Bit off topic but does anyone know if bigslant6fan is still selling his spring kits?
Yes as of yesterday he posted on his add in "parts for sale". The add is for his kits. Try posting there.I have emailed him but i'm guessing he is a busy man. If he isn't selling them anymore does anyone know where to get a recurve spring kit ? I have an electronic distributor from Old Car Parts in Washington serial number 3874714 Cheers, Greg http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52750 Dave |
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| Author: | BUCKET 636 [ Wed Aug 07, 2013 12:40 pm ] |
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^ Thanks for the link and for helping out. He has responded to my email now with a postage cost to Austria , i mean Australia. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Aug 07, 2013 1:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Ummm.... |
Quote: Please tell me how we determine which governor is in there. Is the "R13" stamped somewhere that I don't see or is that determined by crossing the numbers on the weights
The pic shows the weights and springs, the governor is the part missing from the picture that holds the reluctor and has slots in the flat plate (that give the path and limit the posts on the weights travel. It is stamped on either the bottom or top (sometimes both, have seen one 1973 stamped 15L on the bottom and 15R on the top....).Total advance at the crank is 2x the stamp on the governor (15L from 1974=30 degrees of total mechanical timing- limited by rpm and force of the weights against the tension of the springs). -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Wed Aug 07, 2013 1:36 pm ] |
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Per what DI said, take the pod and look at the arm for numbers.......hopefully it isn't rusted to the point that you can't read it.....! Looks like you have a little cleaning to do. 
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| Author: | wjajr [ Wed Aug 07, 2013 2:11 pm ] |
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Once you get that rusted mess cleaned up, working smoothly, and reassembled be sure to put a few drops of light oil on felt located in center of shaft holding reluctor. I use 20 weight "3 in 1 Oil", 10w 30 will do just fine as well. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Wed Aug 07, 2013 2:45 pm ] |
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I have a car and not a van,which may make my findings a poor fit, but after playing with efi timing curve, here what has worked best for this mostly stock engine: 50 degrees total, with no part of the curve below 30 above 1500 rpm. 10 degrees base. This means 20 degrees in the vacuum advance and 20 in mechanical. Hence the 11 vacuum pod and short slots for mechanical advance. All the variation while driving will take place between 30 and 50. You will need the adjustable can to idealize this. Turn the adjuster until you keep it out of preignition at part throttle. In a happy, ideal world it will not prignite at wot at 30 degrees. But there are many factors affecting ths: quality of gas, comprssion ratio, cam, rear,weight of vehicle, condition of engine,etc. If you do get preignition at wot with 10 degrees base, then you have to reduce the base timing, shorten the slots, or increase the octane of your gas. Sam |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:54 am ] |
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I forgot to mention, you can lengthen the slot in the arm for the V advance can and thus increase the degrees advance in it. Use a Dremel tool and a small cut off disk. If you cannot find a long slot one, do not fret. Just make one. Sam |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Aug 08, 2013 9:04 am ] |
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Good idea.....I did that mod to my VC-208....went from 22 degrees to 25 degrees... |
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| Author: | BUCKET 636 [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:05 pm ] |
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I took my dizzy apart in readiness for my spring kit. As per bigslant6fan's instructions the governor slot should be .380 or 9.652mm. My governor has R11 stamped on it and the slot is 10mm. Would this extra .4mm make a difference? Maybe my measuring stick isn't the most accurate.  Thanks, Greg Edit From looking at other threads it seems the R11 governor is the one that doesn't need the slots shortened. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:03 pm ] |
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I run a 15L (.475 slot) with out problem. Shortening the slots are for folks that dedicated have race cars. Cam Crank Slot length 6° 12° 0.340" 7° 14° 0.357" 8° 16° 0.375" 9° 18° 0.390" 10° 20° 0.405" 11° 22° 0.420" 12° 24° 0.435" 13° 26° 0.447" 14° 28° 0.460" 15° 30° 0.475" 16° 32° 0.490" 17° 34° 0.505" 18° 36° 0.520" |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:27 pm ] |
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I think what you have is good. Go with it. Get the long vacuum advance unit. Total should be 50 when done. Sam |
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| Author: | BUCKET 636 [ Tue Aug 13, 2013 6:33 pm ] |
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Quote: Get the long vacuum advance unit. Total should be 50 when done.
As this is my first time i have worked on a dizzy , what do you mean by long vacuum advance unit and what does it do ?Sam I will have a look what is stamped on my pod tonight. Thanks , Greg |
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