Next weekend I'm going to show him how to run a buffer! This should be entertaining.

Nice! I like the road wheels. That looks like it will buff up pretty good.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Wow that's a lot of red! Lol so a few things I notice. First off under the hood looks like madness compared to when I got mine. There's a lot going on under there! I'll try to just make them short:
1 the down pipe on there is like mine, the original on mine had a cat about 3-4" below that bung on yours, mine has the same thing welded shut.
2- nice to see the factory tools on pass inner fender.
3- some may not recommend it but autozone has both pos and neg battery post terminals for multiple large cable installs. I like them.
4- although carpet is back in, I recommend running all power/ground wire away from the audio wires. Usually power and remote turn on for amps down driver side and the RCA n speaker wire down the middle in this case.
5- grounds! Battery, frame, engine, body. Will help a ton.
6- looks to be the aluminum intake, same as the one I swapped for super six.
7- never seen the factory fan shroud and rubber top thing, mines missing. Switched to clutch fan and helped.
8- look on here and the web for the amp meter bypass, may save problems down the road.
9- also look at upgrading the charge wire as well, factory one was pretty small on mine, with amps he will need it.
10- if he wants a brighter cluster, pull it and there's lil green covers over the bulbs, helped a lot on mine.
I could go on and on but I'll stop here for now, love seeing more of the 1st gens! There's a couple write ups in the gallery, dadstruck may know where to get the seals. For the cab to door seal I just took one off a newer 2nd gen dodge from the junk and cut about 6" to make it fit. I think dadstruck is red too, great write up he's done, I'd have your son scroll a couple of the builds and see if he likes any ideas. Keep us updated.
Pohlman
Edited to add, there's a mod to bolt the ram to the hood, idk about your area but ppl like to steal them where I'm at, can't w it bolted haha!

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

I have some questions and/or thoughts:
Concerning #6 the aluminum intake. Do you think this is not original?
The carburetor set-up is a mess. The numbers on the Carburetor are R-5785 4287015 & 97622311. After to talking to some of the Carb shops the 428....# is actually for a carb without a bowl vent solenoid. So it kind of looks like that someone swapped the top of one Carb onto the bowl of another. I'm strongly considering getting a re-manufactured carburetor without the bowl vent and basically setting it up like 60's-70's vintage motor. Basically all I would hook up is the distributor advance and PCV valve. I haven't decided on the carbon canisters yet. What are thoughts on this? We do not have vehicle inspects in Nebraska.

Thanks for the rest of the thoughts.

I'm not going to say it isn't original as my 84 had the aluminum 1bbl intake when I got it. Also had a 1bbl carb but it def didn't look like yours as the previous owners at some point scrapped the hoses etc that all delt w the lean burn system. I eventually went w GM HEI conversion and cut out the remaining pcs of the lean burn. If you have it the computer was a box attached to the breather or it is in the driver side fender well. Google for pics. I recommend converting to vintage style,mits the best thing i done. That and super six setup. Dadstruck bought weather strips, his build up is here, page two I think has where he got them. I have a small build up a couple links down from him under "oldy but goody" also in the slixers gallery. Not sure on the carbon canisters either as mine are missing and if you go w a diff carb I'd suggest the holley 1920. Lots of ppl here run them. Or check parts for sale and maybe pick up a 2bbl intake and run a holley 350 etc. I have the carter bbd and runs fine, rather have the ease of tuning w a holley though. Add another- majority also recommend to upgrade to 2.25" exhaust as well, but like most things if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I added a thrush welded muffler from autozone and has nice low tone, doesn't drone, and no cackle. I'll think of more as I go.

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Aluminum intake could very well be original. Chrysler frequently put aluminum intakes on the trucks and vans sold in the 80s. However, there were two designs- a two piece manifold and a one piece manifold. You have the two piece manifold where the top is welded onto the bottom casting. This intake is known to have porosity problems where the two halves meet, as well as be prone to cracking on the floor of the intake directly below the carb. If you intend to keep the aluminum intake, I strongly recommend you get it bead blasted and check it carefully for cracks or other leaks on the seams.

Remanufactured carbs are really a bad idea these ays. You would be better off trying to find a NOS carb or untouched original condition carb and rebuilding it yourself. I would recommend the Holley 1945 since that is closest to what came originally on the truck. Try and find one from a late 70s or early 80s vehicle so you have a calibration and vacuum nipple arrangement similar to the original carb.

I recommend leaving the carbon canisters in place and functional. They have absolutely NO negative performance impact and are quite beneficial to both the environment and your MPGs. They trap the fuel vapors from the carb when it sits an the fuel in the float bowl evaporates. This (a) keeps those vapors from polluting the atmosphere and (b) saves you gas by making it easier to start your truck. All around they are a good thing with no negative effects.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If anything follow reed on carb choice over me, he's prolly put more hrs in on a slant than I could hope to. I figured he would be by soon.
Going back through your pics, I'm betting that the two black plug laying on your windshield washer tank is the two plug to the lean burn system. Black, kinda square, looking at the ends it looks like a bunch of coffee straws on end. One has a couple more than the other plug and one side is flat yet the other rounded. Which they would plug into the bottom of the black box attached to the driver side of the breather housing and has a vacuum line hooked to it as well. If I remember right, the damn thing wouldn't run unless I had them plugged in either. if you keep the lean burn good luck as idkmanything how to fix it, but I got good pics of what it looks like cut out also, i knowmitmhas power steering but I'd check then joint/union that is a couple inches up from the power steering box, they develop play and can be rebuilt cheap. Check it before adjusting the steering box play adjustments. Before adding power steering mine had about 3" of play on both sides of center
Edit: my build seen here shows what my carb setup looked like. Only thing I had was the lean burn box on my breather. The photo link shows the wires and box on the ground. The rest I didn't have when I got it. And since it seems you have an EI box then the rest of the lean burn stuff can go. Verify first though. Not in my thread is the pos post clamp but it is in my photobucket pics, just look for the battery and you'll see a gold post.

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/heavy ... E_2280.pdf From My holley book 9762A 1981 chrysler L.D. Trk 225 Eng A/T Fed. This carb came with bowl vent solenoid.

I second the idea that remanufactured carbs are paperweights, you would be way better off to find a random carb in a mudhole and the junkyard.

I would go to ebay and search holley 1920 and get one that is rebuildable.

The reman units are cobbled up from mismatched parts, I went through two 1920s and ended up having to make one out of two. They are very simple and reliable carbs but more importantly they are easy to work on.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

What is the difference between the 1920 and 1945 carbs? I do not have any of the lean-burn equipment so I won't be putting that on. Do you think I would be able to tell if there is an issue with the intake by doing a vacuum check? I read several forums on the website talking about total advance (mechanical, initial, and vacuum) and if my memory serves me it said around 54 degrees. I will be the first to admit I don't have alot of experience with a /6, but this seems like a tremendous of advance. Is this due to more cranck rotation because of two less cylinders between strokes?

The 1920 is a bit simpler. The 1945 was a later carb design so it is a touch more complex but not enough to where I would pass up a 1945 over a 1920. The 1945 will most likely have more vacuum fittings for various emissions related hardware, but that is not a big deal. The 1945 might have a bit tighter fuel metering due to emissions and fuel economy concerns.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I doubt a vaccum check would be able to tell you much about how tight the manifold is however if you could pressurise it and put soapy water on it you could see if there are any leaks.

If you paint the intake with epoxy paint it will seal any pinholes that are there.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

easiest way I found to find vacuum leaks is when the engine is stone cold, I use starter fluid. Start it, and with it running (warming up) spray the intake areas with the starter fluid. If it revs up a little then there is a leak. But only when its cold, as when it heats up you have a chance of fire. Others may balk at this as well, Im just low tech until I got my vacuum guage but that was more for tuning.

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

A vacuum check would show a crack or other leak in the intake, but yo would have to remove the intake from the engine and find a way to seal it air tight across the openings and then find a way to draw a vacuum.

The 54 degree advance would only be in light throttle highway cruising situations where the engine was operating at over 2500 RPM and full vacuum was applied to the vacuum advance. Cruising around town the mechanical advance is not fully "in" and the vacuum advance goes in and out depending on the throttle opening and the load on the engine. Even though the slant "likes" 54 total degrees for highway cruising, the reality is that in average daily driving situations the timing will stay between 25 and 35 degrees advanced.

I believe the 54 degree number comes from the design of the combustion chamber and issues having to do with flame travel from one side to the other.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

So, If the truck does not have the lean burn system, as mine has been removed. Where would you set the advance? I normally set the advance at 2500 rpm rather than using only an idle setting. Would you set it up with all advance in?