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Too lean or too rich?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51996		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Otateral [ Fri May 10, 2013 4:52 pm ]
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Alright, going to replace all the rubber lines. Don't have enough spare cash at the moment to do the steel ones. Then will pull the carb, recheck the float level and put it back together and see what happens next.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri May 10, 2013 4:55 pm ]
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Don't get the 30-07 rubber hose, I think it is the 30-09R that will hold up with the ethanol based fuel.....it is expensive!
Author:  olafla [ Fri May 10, 2013 8:53 pm ]
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Otateral, I have a picture in a post somewhere, of small, blue inner lining pieces from the new fuel hose, that ended up in the carb bowl. As Ted pointed out, they can also prevent the needle valve from closing. If you can manage it, try to remove the floats, baffle and needle valve, without removing the fuel intake rubber hose from the nipple, and check for debris in the bowl. If you remove the fuel hose, you may create the problem all over again, when attaching it. Sharp edges on the connectors may cut away small rubber pieces, blocking your needle.

Olaf

Found the picture (in a crazy story... 8) ): http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=295006
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Fri May 10, 2013 10:17 pm ]
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Quote:
Yes, but when you get the typical black patch indicating incomplete combustion, the droplets are present very soon, and in greater quantity
Makes sense when you think about it- a rich mixture burns a little cooler- allowing more water to condense out sooner. I just didn't agree with water = incomplete combustion.
Author:  olafla [ Sat May 11, 2013 7:37 am ]
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WagonsRcool, I expressed myself a little clumsy to start with, it was the visible end result I intended to point out, not the chemical theory. Foreigner, you know... 8)

Olaf
Author:  Otateral [ Sat May 11, 2013 9:31 pm ]
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Alright, took apart the carb. Replaced the accelerator pump with a new one while I was in there. The one I had on there looked slightly oval shaped, on close inspection.

Dumped out the old gas, re-assembled the carb. Checked the float level again, and it's perfect. Everything looks good. Start the car, and after about 5 seconds fuel is pouring out of the carb again. AHHH!!!

I'm wondering now if this float is bad. I was going to test it and put it in a bucket of water to see if it actually floated but forgot in my excitement to get it running again.

So, need to pull it again tomorrow. :/
Author:  Otateral [ Sun May 12, 2013 11:24 am ]
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I set the float a little lower and now it's stopped overflowing. Test drove it and it doesn't appear to have the hesitation while accelerating. The occasional bad idle and stalling is still there, but only after really gunning the gas and then coming to a stop.

It seems to be flooded when it dies. The idle mixture screws are a quarter turn out from a tough idle and it Isles at 900rpm smooth.

Here's my next question. Could wrong sized jets affect this? I left the old jets in the carb when I rebuilt it, and I believe they're 318 jets.
Author:  olafla [ Sun May 12, 2013 1:24 pm ]
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The jets cannot cause this, several people has used the 318 carb without any changes.
To see what differs between Super Six and 318 carb, read from page 26 -> on in the BBD manual: http://u225.torque.net/cars/SL6/docs/BBD_Manuals.pdf.
I would say that you most likely have a leaking intake needle, or leaky/sticking floats, check that they are moving freely. Your idle is set too high. it should be 700-750 rpm.

Olaf
Author:  Otateral [ Sun May 12, 2013 1:56 pm ]
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Still troubleshooting. Just checked timing and it's between 5 and 10 btdc but it bounces back and forth. This is with hose from carb to distributor plugged. Wondering if maybe this distributor is bad. It came with the engine.

FYI this is a recently rebuilt engine, so timing chain should be fine.
Author:  Otateral [ Sun May 12, 2013 3:51 pm ]
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Sorry for rapid posts, my distributor was missing the plastic gasket that goes between it and the block. Put that on and got steady timing now.
Author:  wjajr [ Sun May 12, 2013 4:40 pm ]
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You're getting closer, keep picking away. I agree with others that there is a float problem.
Author:  olafla [ Mon May 13, 2013 7:47 pm ]
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I just posted this in another thread:
Take a look at this animated version on how to interpret different vacuum gauge readings, you may recognize your meter's pattern: (some of the clickable green buttons have a two-stage response)

How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

Olaf
Author:  Otateral [ Mon May 13, 2013 8:30 pm ]
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Bookmarked thanks. Plan on picking up a vacuum gauge. I doubt I have any leaks, but this will help to rule things out I think.
Author:  Otateral [ Wed May 15, 2013 7:44 pm ]
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I think I've got everything all dialed in now. I've driven about 25 miles since the last float adjustment with no ill effects. Thanks a ton, everyone.

Only issue I'm having right now is the fast idle cam doesn't seem to want to engage when cold. Think I need to bend the rod a bit. Does anyone have a picture of their carter bbd that shows this rod so I can see how much of a bend it should have?
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