Here are some links to cooling related articles from Car Craft and Hot Rod Magazine:
Drivetrain Power Loss - The Brutal Truth

Keeping Cool

How to Design And Build A High-Performance Cooling System

Cool Is The Rule

An couple of aussie articles:
Chasing Overheating

DIY Adjustable Temp Switches

Olaf

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Aspenized

The thermostat does not open until its rated temperature. Until then, water does not circulate through the rad.
The cooling system works well but it depends on heat transfer at the radiator not around the bock. I think the actual heat convective heat transfer from the water jacket's exterior is minimal. This would be more the case for air-cooled engines with a large surface area from the cooling fins.
Fuel is ATOMIZED at the venturi(s) in the carburetor. If the fuel falls out the airstream when it makes the 90° turn in the intake manifold, the hot-spot under the carburetor (manifold heat control system) VAPORIZES any puddled fuel back into the air.
I don't think that the air flow from the fan has a major effect on exhaust manifold temperature, especially on the far side of the carburetor.

Like Olafa mentioned earlier, besides the reduced parasitic load on the engine, the other benefit from an electric fan is increased safety.

Frank,

Theory is theory........sometimes you just have to try things and keep trying to see how they work. You will never understand the efficiencies of not having a fan blowing over the SL6 block full time, until you try it. I have been pleasantly surprised especially after going to the (2) 10" fans verses (1) 16" fan.
There are a lot more subtle advantages than just Hp increase.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG