Slant Six Forum :: Wiring in a points type dist

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but I thought this meant that you needed to change the ignition coil when you switch from lean burn to any ignition type other than HEI, which also doesn't use a ballast resistor.

I thought that the points, EI, and lean burn coil had different resistance values and needed different rated ballast resistors to work. Have I been wrong all this time?

Quote:

I thought that the points, EI, and lean burn coil had different resistance values and needed different rated ballast resistors to work. Have I been wrong all this time?

A long time back on usenet/newsgroups (before we had these nice boards), Ehrenberg had lined out a really nice parts list of the different resistors and their values. At one time I had a lower resistance single resistor that mopar used in their points small block V-8 4-barrel cars in my parts stash as it was recommended to use these with people "upgrading" their B block ignition system along with EI...but as noted there are different values between .5-1.5 ohms depending on the application and single or dual.

-D.Idiot

You could always ditch the resistor and go with a 3 ohm coil. It is a much cleaner setup!
I did years ago along with many other folks on this forum.

I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast.

Hello Ted, ( or anyone that knows something ) can you tell me more about this, I think this would be a better alternative for me, I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast.

1930,

Quote:

Hello Ted, ( or anyone that knows something ) can you tell me more about this, I think this would be a better alternative for me, I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast.

Take a look at the pictures of my set up. Click on the red link below. Using a 3 ohm coil (that does not need a ballast resistor) then the jumper where the ballast resistor used to be mounted.

Quote:

I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast.

Mount it to the fender next to the coil and distributor as a temporary measure and conserve wiring (except for the "hot wire" from the ignition).

Then you can just take it all off as a single wired setup for later.

-D.Idiot

For the time being I want to run the older time points type dist, ( I will up-grade later ) I am assuming by your response that I will not need to run a ballast resistor if I get this 3 OHM coil, all I would need to do too wire this up would be too take my hot wire ( with ignition on ) and connect that directly too the positive side of my 3 OHM coil.

Quote:

Sounds like a plan to get the engine running.

No holes required in the engine compartment, .... except if your running a NASCAR type ignition switch on your dash. My lighted switch is mounted below the dash.

Looking at your pictures Ted, the Dart looks great.

I am wondering why you still have the resistor there though, I see your quick disconnect but just would like to know why have it at all if un-neccesary? Is it needed for your other ignition?

I like your heat shield, did you notice a significant change after using it?

Author:	wjajr [ Tue Nov 26, 2013 2:04 pm ]
Post subject:
Reed: Quote: Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but I thought this meant that you needed to change the ignition coil when you switch from lean burn to any ignition type other than HEI, which also doesn't use a ballast resistor. We purchased new a 1976 Cordoba with lean burn equipped 400 cid 4v engine March of that year. It was one of the first lean burn cars Chrysler built in 1976, and it was the first and only engine displacement (400 ci) that was equipped in 1976 with lean burn. It had the standard ballast resistor, and no catalytic converter. In 1977 the lean burn system was extended to additional but not all engine displacements other than the 400, and all 1977 engines required catalytic converters. I don't know if the ballast resister was dropped in '77 or not.

Author:	1930 [ Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:59 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks for all the replies, for sure I am more confused now than when I initially asked the question but Im sure it will be all sorted out. Yes once again Reed has gone above and beyond with helping me thru-e-mails. Im almost there to hear it started.

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:24 pm ]
Post subject:	Yes.
Quote: I thought that the points, EI, and lean burn coil had different resistance values and needed different rated ballast resistors to work. Have I been wrong all this time? A long time back on usenet/newsgroups (before we had these nice boards), Ehrenberg had lined out a really nice parts list of the different resistors and their values. At one time I had a lower resistance single resistor that mopar used in their points small block V-8 4-barrel cars in my parts stash as it was recommended to use these with people "upgrading" their B block ignition system along with EI...but as noted there are different values between .5-1.5 ohms depending on the application and single or dual. -D.Idiot

Author:	1930 [ Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:37 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Yes.
Quote: Quote: I thought that the points, EI, and lean burn coil had different resistance values and needed different rated ballast resistors to work. Have I been wrong all this time? A long time back on usenet/newsgroups (before we had these nice boards), Ehrenberg had lined out a really nice parts list of the different resistors and their values. At one time I had a lower resistance single resistor that mopar used in their points small block V-8 4-barrel cars in my parts stash as it was recommended to use these with people "upgrading" their B block ignition system along with EI...but as noted there are different values between .5-1.5 ohms depending on the application and single or dual. -D.Idiot If I am understanding single resistor I have one of these that came out of a different slant vehicle. I will post a pic tonight.

Author:	1930 [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 1:59 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: You could always ditch the resistor and go with a 3 ohm coil. It is a much cleaner setup! I did years ago along with many other folks on this forum. Hello Ted, ( or anyone that knows something ) can you tell me more about this, I think this would be a better alternative for me, I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast.

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Wiring in a points type dist https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53944	Page 2 of 3

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 3:41 pm ]
Post subject:	You can...
Quote: I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast. Mount it to the fender next to the coil and distributor as a temporary measure and conserve wiring (except for the "hot wire" from the ignition). Then you can just take it all off as a single wired setup for later. -D.Idiot

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 4:56 pm ]
Post subject:
1930, Quote: Hello Ted, ( or anyone that knows something ) can you tell me more about this, I think this would be a better alternative for me, I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast. Take a look at the pictures of my set up. Click on the red link below. Using a 3 ohm coil (that does not need a ballast resistor) then the jumper where the ballast resistor used to be mounted.

Author:	1930 [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:37 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: 1930, Quote: Hello Ted, ( or anyone that knows something ) can you tell me more about this, I think this would be a better alternative for me, I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast. Take a look at the pictures of my set up. Click on the red link below. Using a 3 ohm coil (that does not need a ballast resistor) then the jumper where the ballast resistor used to be mounted. Hi Ted, I have never had a ballast resistor, I sent you a response to your P.M which I will copy and paste below........... Ok thanks Ted, just to clarify than, at this point I have/had a truck that was originally lean burn, I have removed all the lean burn components. ( including all of the wiring) For the time being I want to run the older time points type dist, ( I will up-grade later ) I am assuming by your response that I will not need to run a ballast resistor if I get this 3 OHM coil, all I would need to do too wire this up would be too take my hot wire ( with ignition on ) and connect that directly too the positive side of my 3 OHM coil. Then make a wire going out negative side of coil which would go directly to the dist. Is that it??

Author:	1930 [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:38 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: You can...
Quote: Quote: I wouldnt have too drill holes in my firewall to mount the ballast. Mount it to the fender next to the coil and distributor as a temporary measure and conserve wiring (except for the "hot wire" from the ignition). Then you can just take it all off as a single wired setup for later. -D.Idiot Id like not to have too drill any unnecessary holes anywhere if possible but thanks

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 9:10 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: For the time being I want to run the older time points type dist, ( I will up-grade later ) I am assuming by your response that I will not need to run a ballast resistor if I get this 3 OHM coil, all I would need to do too wire this up would be too take my hot wire ( with ignition on ) and connect that directly too the positive side of my 3 OHM coil. Sounds like a plan to get the engine running. No holes required in the engine compartment, .... except if your running a NASCAR type ignition switch on your dash. My lighted switch is mounted below the dash.

Author:	1930 [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 1:33 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: For the time being I want to run the older time points type dist, ( I will up-grade later ) I am assuming by your response that I will not need to run a ballast resistor if I get this 3 OHM coil, all I would need to do too wire this up would be too take my hot wire ( with ignition on ) and connect that directly too the positive side of my 3 OHM coil. Sounds like a plan to get the engine running. No holes required in the engine compartment, .... except if your running a NASCAR type ignition switch on your dash. My lighted switch is mounted below the dash. No Nascar set-up here, thanks

Author:	1930 [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 1:48 am ]
Post subject:
Looking at your pictures Ted, the Dart looks great. I am wondering why you still have the resistor there though, I see your quick disconnect but just would like to know why have it at all if un-neccesary? Is it needed for your other ignition? I like your heat shield, did you notice a significant change after using it?

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 4:21 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Looking at your pictures Ted, the Dart looks great. I am wondering why you still have the resistor there though, I see your quick disconnect but just would like to know why have it at all if un-neccesary? Is it needed for your other ignition? I like your heat shield, did you notice a significant change after using it? 1. I have that photo for folks that are doing the conversion. The wires have been soldered permanently for years. No going back.......to using a resistor. 2. Huge difference since using the heat shield. In fact there is a larger one on there now. It is nice to have in many ways! No more heat soak!, a great shelf for sliding my gas catch bowl on when changing jets and the intake warms up much quicker for more power in the 10 degree mornings.

Author:	1930 [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:55 pm ]
Post subject:
Ok Got it thanks.......I need to find a coil locally, ( any suggestions appreciated ) this is the only thing at this point stopping me from starting the vehicle ( I believe ) Did not have two minutes today too look anywhere but hoping for better luck tomm.

Author:	1930 [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 4:56 pm ]
Post subject:
Hi Ted, I called a pretty knowledgeable local Napa guy I know and he gave me a Napa part number of Part Number: ECH IC64 Product Line: Echlin Ignition He said internal resistor 3 OHM pretty common coil used on alot of farm equip. ect, anything that dosent have an external resistor and is running points What do you think please

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