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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 8:22 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Supposedly they are made shorter to be compatible with the poly strut rod bushings, which are apparently thicker then the stock a body ones.
The 1974-1976 stock bushings when new are as thick as the Energy suspension poly strut bushings, there is a difference in the threading and bushing washer stop depth on the pre-73 rods and the very late rods, FYI.

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 7:16 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Poly Carbonate squeaks more than poly graphite. I've used both. I put zerk fittings in the last set to keep them lubed. I have rubber on the lowers in this car now.

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... ycarbonate

Sam

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 Post subject: poly...
PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 7:31 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Yes, I'm told that newer bushing manufacturers are including graphite in their poly urethane - this should help stop the squeaking considerably as graphite is an excellent lubricant. As a note, I am an organic chemist. Polyurethane is a completely different polymer than polycarbonate. Most of the bushings I've seen advertized are polyurethane, some impregnated with graphite, some not, but most have lubrication channels in them.

Regardless, it sounds like teflon lubes are the best at keeping the squeaks at bay for at least a year or more. Polyurethane is resistant to most any grease or oil, so you can try whatever you like on them, they won't break down as a result of exposure to lubes.

BTW, Firm feel has the LCA pins with zerk fittings for $100, but also these are sold at Summit by Hotchkiss and also Proforged has a set for only $112 that includes the outer shells (if you took them out like I did) and the polyurethane bushings included. See: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-1 ... /overview/

bg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:57 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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I think the bigger concern is rust. Water collect between the eurethane and the shell where it sits and rusts the shell from the inside. I drove my 70 Dart as a DD and the first set I installed rusted badly in just a few years. Hence the zerk fittings on the next set, mostly to drive out moisture.

Sam

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 Post subject: begs the question....
PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:20 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Do they make SS outer shells....maybe that's why the FirmFeel pins are coated with a black finish....and the shells with the Proforged kit are coated with a black coating....hmmm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:23 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Here is my opinion about this in a general way. You can make the front end on the old Mopars nearly world class. But you will always be stuck with that old, narrow live axle, with limits on tire size. The bottom line is if you build the front with the firmest components and stickiest tires you will likely create a car with serious over steer. I know because I did it. Put some energy into the rear, and don't go all out with your front end. I would suggest just putting rubber LCA bushings back in. Mine got better when I put narrower wheels on the front.

I have dreamed about IRS on a Dart for years.

Sam

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