Slant Six Forum :: 1945 carb

Quote:

Also dusteridiot mentioned something about checking the air horn too make sure it was not warped, ( If I understood correctly ) didnt go into any detail. What can you recommend for this?

Basically when you pull it apart for cleaning, use a straight edge on the mating surfaces and see if they are indeed "flat" (you can use a thin feeler gauge to check between the straight edge and mating surface...say a .003 if you have one in your set).

The Idle Air Enrichment Valve can be left alone if you live anyplace below Denver, just leave it uncapped and it will not function for the flat landers and hill drivers...

The linkage adjustments and choke plate clearance can also be found in your rebuild kit instruction sheet (and you can change the adjustments to suit your vehicle as needed). My first carb to rebuild was a Carter BBD of a 1969 383, with no experiece I just took it apart and laid all the pieces in order that I disassembled it then cleaned each part and followed the instructions in the rebuild kit to reassemble and adjust...It's not that hard, just takes time.

Note that swapping parts sometimes works, or can be a disaster...this is why reman carbs have such a bad rep, they just throw a set of parts from 3 different carbs together and expect the thing to run.

-D.Idiot

This carb is different still than the carb that is shown in the 1945 manual I downloaded, the low idle speed adjustor screw for instance is not on the carb that I am working on and quite frankly I do not see how to adjust the idle speed.

I seen this before. Carbs that used the solenoid/plunger were not drlled and taped for curb idle screw.Just swap over the solenoid to this carb.

http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=1618572&image=559737315&images=559737256,559737315,559737364,559737418&formats=0,0,0,0&format=0 This is the curb low idle screw. Some carbs do not have it.

The one that is not the fast idle screw you already have on your carb and is in the same area and orientation as the solenoid on your carb.

Yes To all questions except solenoid

Quote:

Yes To all questions except solenoid

Great, thanks, so whats the mistake with the solenoid?

Quote:

Yes To all questions except solenoid

Great, thanks, so whats the mistake with the solenoid?

The screw in front of the solenoid has no effect on the amount of travel of the solenoid plunger when the solenoid is engaged.

The two holes pointed to by yellow arrows are for the throttle cable and the automatic transmission kick down linkage. Throttle cable goes on the outboard hole, kick down linkage on the inboard hole. Throttle cable is held in place by a peg that passes through the hole in the carb and the hole in the bracket on the end of the throttle cable. The peg has a flange on one end to keep it from sliding all the way through the hole. On the other end of the peg is a small hole through which a voter pin is inserted to keep the peg from falling out. You will find diagrams of the connections in your factory service manual in the "fuel systems" chapter.

Author:	1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:06 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: 2 things...
Quote: Quote: Also dusteridiot mentioned something about checking the air horn too make sure it was not warped, ( If I understood correctly ) didnt go into any detail. What can you recommend for this? Basically when you pull it apart for cleaning, use a straight edge on the mating surfaces and see if they are indeed "flat" (you can use a thin feeler gauge to check between the straight edge and mating surface...say a .003 if you have one in your set). The Idle Air Enrichment Valve can be left alone if you live anyplace below Denver, just leave it uncapped and it will not function for the flat landers and hill drivers... The linkage adjustments and choke plate clearance can also be found in your rebuild kit instruction sheet (and you can change the adjustments to suit your vehicle as needed). My first carb to rebuild was a Carter BBD of a 1969 383, with no experiece I just took it apart and laid all the pieces in order that I disassembled it then cleaned each part and followed the instructions in the rebuild kit to reassemble and adjust...It's not that hard, just takes time. Note that swapping parts sometimes works, or can be a disaster...this is why reman carbs have such a bad rep, they just throw a set of parts from 3 different carbs together and expect the thing to run. -D.Idiot Ok thanks, I will maybe bring the carb too the shop this week if I have the time and look into things, might not happen till next weekend though. Will let you know

Author:	matv91 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:06 pm ]
Post subject:
This carb is different still than the carb that is shown in the 1945 manual I downloaded, the low idle speed adjustor screw for instance is not on the carb that I am working on and quite frankly I do not see how to adjust the idle speed. I seen this before. Carbs that used the solenoid/plunger were not drlled and taped for curb idle screw.Just swap over the solenoid to this carb.

Author:	1930 [ Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:53 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: This carb is different still than the carb that is shown in the 1945 manual I downloaded, the low idle speed adjustor screw for instance is not on the carb that I am working on and quite frankly I do not see how to adjust the idle speed. I seen this before. Carbs that used the solenoid/plunger were not drlled and taped for curb idle screw.Just swap over the solenoid to this carb. Must have been a way to adjust the low idle ( is that the same as curb idle ? ) Id like to know how to do it because my old solenoid did not work and I believe that once I re-solder the wire back on that got accidentally pulled out of this one that it will work. I may need to find someone with a 75 Dart original and ask them, havent figured out how to do that yet though.

Author:	matv91 [ Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:26 am ]
Post subject:
http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/sho ... 0&format=0 This is the curb low idle screw. Some carbs do not have it.

Author:	1930 [ Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:02 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=1618572&image=559737315&images=559737256,559737315,559737364,559737418&formats=0,0,0,0&format=0 This is the curb low idle screw. Some carbs do not have it. Which one, I see a picture of a carb?

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1945 carb https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54229	Page 2 of 3

Author:	Reed [ Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:55 pm ]
Post subject:
The one that is not the fast idle screw you already have on your carb and is in the same area and orientation as the solenoid on your carb.

Author:	1930 [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:42 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: The one that is not the fast idle screw you already have on your carb and is in the same area and orientation as the solenoid on your carb. Ok just for clarity would it be this one? Is this the same as curb idle? Curb idle, low speed idle, same thing?

Author:	1930 [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:56 am ]
Post subject:
Again just for clarity, this is the carb that I plan to use, the 1975 carb, the adjusting screw can just barely be seen here, I believe it is the same screw. This will be the low idle/curb speed adjusting screw?

Author:	1930 [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:06 am ]
Post subject:
I would guess this too be fast idle adjustment?

Author:	1930 [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:10 am ]
Post subject:
I would guess that the one circled in red is just an adjustment for the amount the solenoid would move the throttle when A/C is kicked on, is that correct? Does nothing more? Thanks

Author:	matv91 [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:25 am ]
Post subject:
Yes To all questions except solenoid

Author:	1930 [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:26 am ]
Post subject:
The areas in yellow I know are where the throttle cable attaches but which one, I would guess whichever is in line the cleanest but also how does it attach, I would guess some sort of pin deal, I do not have this and have been using a cotter pin. Is the correct pin avail? I seem to remember it called a cleft pin, might be avail at Ace hardware. My old original carb has a stake attached too the lever that the throttle cable attaches too

Author:	1930 [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:29 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Yes To all questions except solenoid Great, thanks, so whats the mistake with the solenoid?

Author:	Reed [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:04 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: Yes To all questions except solenoid Great, thanks, so whats the mistake with the solenoid? The screw in front of the solenoid has no effect on the amount of travel of the solenoid plunger when the solenoid is engaged. The two holes pointed to by yellow arrows are for the throttle cable and the automatic transmission kick down linkage. Throttle cable goes on the outboard hole, kick down linkage on the inboard hole. Throttle cable is held in place by a peg that passes through the hole in the carb and the hole in the bracket on the end of the throttle cable. The peg has a flange on one end to keep it from sliding all the way through the hole. On the other end of the peg is a small hole through which a voter pin is inserted to keep the peg from falling out. You will find diagrams of the connections in your factory service manual in the "fuel systems" chapter.

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Author:	1930 [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:45 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: Quote: Yes To all questions except solenoid Great, thanks, so whats the mistake with the solenoid? The screw in front of the solenoid has no effect on the amount of travel of the solenoid plunger when the solenoid is engaged. The two holes pointed to by yellow arrows are for the throttle cable and the automatic transmission kick down linkage. Throttle cable goes on the outboard hole, kick down linkage on the inboard hole. Throttle cable is held in place by a peg that passes through the hole in the carb and the hole in the bracket on the end of the throttle cable. The peg has a flange on one end to keep it from sliding all the way through the hole. On the other end of the peg is a small hole through which a voter pin is inserted to keep the peg from falling out. You will find diagrams of the connections in your factory service manual in the "fuel systems" chapter. Got it, so what is the adjustment for just ahead of the solenoid or right in front of the solenoid if not to adjust just how much extra throttle is given when the A/C were turned on?