Thank you Olaf ,

The Mad Max Movie destroyed my Life... soon Max is back

hello Thomas,

thank you.

it is a 6200-6500 rpm through the traps in the 1/4 mile.


Keep on slantin!

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

View from the dark side of Life....and car facts
I have a thermostat in the sandwich adapter. Oil cooler is mounted behind
the grill guard.
In the oil pan i made some floors to stop the oil from splash around under acceleration -braking exercises.
The stock fuel line is changed to a new 1/2 inch fuel line from tank to Engine
And i put a big 100 micron filter Before the wallbro inline pump,
and in the engine compartment there is a 10 micron filter to protect the injectors.
This will be my Daily driver so reliability is important..
The stock distributor is rebuild to a cam- hall sensor unit

Thomas, you have obviously spent a lot of time thinking through the whole build process, and planned carefully what to do. Fantastic detailing, it looks very functional, but very pretty at the same time! Do you have some details on the distributor conversion for us, or maybe even som photos? Did you keep the mechanical advance mechanism, or did you only use the bare housing/shaft?

Olaf

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Aspenized

Thanks Olaf,
Yes i have spent many hours to find out what to do.
Thank you Internet, and Slant 6 forum and all other sites.
Its complicated enough to build something like this, So i try to shorten the tuning process by place everything for easy access.
I think a lot about the exhaust, build a real turbo headers or keep the stock ?
But i find out that you can get enough power with the stock one. ( for street car)
And if i want later , there is space enough for real headers . I can keep the turbo and all connected pipes in its place , and just replace the stock cast iron exhaust.
About the distributor , Im just using it as a cam position sensor , and not for the ignition.
I use the bare housing/shaft. With one pointer welded to the bottom floor. ( where the advance mechanism was Before)
I made a holder for the sensor and put it on the sides of distributor housing.
Im not sure about this construction, but soon i now..

Thomas


Some of the engine management system can run without cam sensor.
It try to start the Engine, and if its wrong it change to next stroke,
and inject the fuel there.
But Im running fully sequential injection , and i think my system need the cam sensor.
However you probably get a faster starting Engine with the sensor

Her is a pic of the bosch fuel injector im using .( Bosch pt 1040 ) 1040 cc/min.(99 lbs / hr) You can also get them in 860 cc size. Note the extended nose.
with this the fuel spray doesent start in a mine shaft...
Quite good when you want less angle (about 30 degree) at the fuel injector bosses, to let fuel spray cone hit the valve pocket instead of the floor in the runner.

Now i have ordered the brain to my project. you can see the 3 tuning card including.
One for long distance trips
One for racing
And one to pay the speeding fines..
This box take care of both fuel and ignition, fully secuential injection ,waste fire
The same company that sell it, can also help me with the mapping.

There are different type of hallsensor Constructions.
I have found good information about cam- hall sensors at a Megasquirt page.
To tell the computer if the engine are at the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke i use my old
distributor
And the hallsensor here is a 3 cable . One for power supply, one ground and one signal. The sensor have a magnet inside, and need something
of normal iron-steel passing close to give signal



There are other type of hallsensors, with no magnet inside , and they need a magnetic pointer, trigger passing close.

Another type is commonly used in distributors .
The vanes in the distributor rotates and block or unblock a magnet











My hallsensor converted stock distributor.
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Excellent Distributor Trick.


Thanks for sharing these cam position sensor Mods.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

very nice build. thanks for sharing. can't wait to see it in action

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Tony Bracamonte
'66 Dart GT
built /6 w/ garrett gt32
air-air intercooler
330 hp / 440 lbft @ 16.5 psi

Thanks Tony,
Yes same same here ...cant wait... Im in the process to prepare the car for the swap. I changed the exhaust
to a 3 inch. It starts with a 3 inch pipe and after the firewall it split into
two 2 1/2 inch .
In front of the rear axle the two pipes going into a flowtech Terminator muffler.
And continue with a U bend over the axle ( 3 inch) and finaly one small
muffler.
I try to minimize the sound inside the car,
thats why i split into two pipes . Its nice muscle car sound now on the outside,.... but still little to loud. (with my stock Engine)
I expect the turbo is also going to damp the sound?