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Weber on Supersix pics and the setup
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54617		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  Serj22 [ Sun Feb 16, 2014 6:56 pm ]
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I got the Holley regulator as well. It does seem the fuel pressure as-is is excessive. I'll attach it once it gets here on Tuesday.
Author:  Wvbuzzmaster [ Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:51 am ]
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Quote:
Quote:
Serj,

Do you happen to have any additional angles showing the kick down on the lower section of the firewall. My 1966 Dart is different in that area. I don't know that I can hook it all up like you did or if I will need to use cables instead.
I can take a picture of whatever you need. Do you mean where the kickdown rod passes under the firewall? Or a view as if the firewall is taking a picture of the rod? Let me know I'll get it for ya.
Yes, where it passes under the firewall. Mostly trying to understand what you did with the linkages so that it could be duplicated. I dont think my Dart uses cable throttle, but rather integrated linkages. Heck, Mabey you might duplicate your kick down linkages some day for those making the conversion to Webers. Thanks.
Author:  Serj22 [ Tue Feb 18, 2014 7:39 pm ]
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Well, this is 90% the stock linkage from my 1968 Slant six with the 3speed automatic.

The only real change i made is the rod connecting it to the carburetor.

Just to the left of the exhaust is the rod as it passes under the firewall to meet the transmission.

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The rod comes up to a bracket that is mounted below the exhaust manifold. There is a slip sleeve on the end of it that can be adjusted, and a spring pulls it back to its resting position. This is absolutely a stock part on my one barrel slant, but maybe not on early slants. This is a 68.

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Above it is just an EGR block off plate that I made that utilizes all three bolt holes - one is from the arm that attaches the Carter BBD spring.

The slip and bolt is adjusted closer to the transmission - this is just where it seems to operate good.

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This is the rod I made to go from the carb extension arm to the kickdown. The extension lever comes with the kit I mentioned before. The rod is the stock choke coil rod, but shortened.

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The bend put in it already assists in clearing the throttle cable. If you have a rod linkage, and I saw a picture of it, I could tell if this lever would work for you similarly or not.

This is the pcv port, built into the lower adapter plate in the intake. I probably could have flipped it around and had the hose come out the back, but for now, it's fine. In the back it would make a much shorter pcv hose and look a little better.

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The vacuum advance winds up in pretty much the exact same place as the 1920's on the stock intake, so even that hose can be re-used.

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If you eliminate the hard line for the fuel that is attached to the carb AFTER the filter, and just use a hose from the filter to carb, it makes a nice run right to a clean barbed port pointed towards the driver's fender. ALL the hoses come with the CARB kit as well.

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Finally, this is the spring...

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I bought a much tighter wound spring than the stock one, but it is the same length. The stock spring did not return the throttle, and throttle extension to the correct point. The stock mounting rod is used, but bent over by hand towards the firewall. It works great.

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Also, I must make note - there is a throttle extension plate that sticks below the brass colored plate the spring is attached to when you buy the kit. REMOVE IT. it will not clear the intake, and is intended for the Jeep's throttle cable i believe. Just take it off, and rebend the nut holder that is on it by hand - very easy. Also where the train connecting rod is on the same plate, it comes in the box, mounted to the hole just to the right of it. Move it one hole left, and you're good to go. It took me an hour or so to adjust that part itself, so it'll save you all time. I'll draw it out too later if need be.

I don't know that I'd have to help manufacture this part. I'm thinking this linkage might be given away or sold cheaply as it's just a stock part, but I don't know.
Author:  Kidd [ Tue Feb 18, 2014 8:45 pm ]
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Cool info.....and I like the purple engine. My 440 in my 70 Road Runner is purple!
Author:  Wvbuzzmaster [ Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:03 pm ]
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Serj,

After looking at your pics I can see my 66 definitely has some way different kick down linkages. Yours looks to be behind the starter mostly. Mine is all on the lower part of the firewall. Might not be a bad thing if I can just mate it all together somehow... Definitely with my Dart sitting up 3 feet off the ground on the car lift currently doesn't make it easy to reach anything to see what stuff does what haha. Besides that, if I actually had someone touch the pedals to see what moves what it might make more sense. Guess until I get all the parts in my hands and the engine rebuilt next winter I will not fully understand how to make the carb swap work out. I do know it is possible though.
Author:  Serj22 [ Wed Feb 19, 2014 9:04 pm ]
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That's unfortunate. Maybe the 68 kickdown could be made to work on your application, but I don't know.

This is the fuel pressure reg I got. Holley 1-4psi adjustment.

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So far it works; was set at 2.7psi and backed off a little so the pressure is probably around 3.2psi. I need to get a gauge and find out. I'm assuming if it's 4psi max, I can just back it all the way to where it ends and it will be 4psi? or I don't know. I've never messed with one of these before.
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:57 am ]
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Thanks for the posts on this. I love the purple.

That fuel filter is very scarey. Why in Hell they allow that company to keep marketing that POS is a mystery to me. If it is glass? It can break. If it is plastic? Ethanol will crack it. I worked with a guy that burned his '69 Chevy truck with one of those filters. :evil:
Author:  Serj22 [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:15 pm ]
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I had a plastic one, and ditched it. This one is glass. It's got two soft hoses on either side. I guess it's possible it could break, but I don't know. I'm assuming if it does, the carb will starve, then some gas will fall down to the ground. It's nowhere over the engine. I don't know though. Had this one about a year. I'm more frightened of the Fuel pressure regulator to tell you the truth, because I've heard horror stories of those causing issues - at least it's also not a triangle of death too.

I might swap it for a blingbling chrome one. They are cheaper anyway.
Author:  Fopar [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:51 pm ]
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How much fuel will be pumped before the carb runs dry :?: :?: :?:

Richard
Author:  Chuck [ Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:20 am ]
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Wvbuzzmaster,

On a pre-67 A-Body, you would probably be better off to change the pedal linkage to the cable type. I did this on my 63 Dart when I went to a Super Six setup. You remove the pedal from the floor and all the rod-type linkage that went to it and replace it with the whole setup from a 67 or later car, or even a B-Body. I think I only had to drill one hole in the firewall to mount it up. Then you can use just about any carb.

Here is a picture of the original linkages. I believe the cable-type in the lower picture is from a B-Body. I don't have a picture of the later "hanging" type pedal that I used.

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Author:  Serj22 [ Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:00 pm ]
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Well, two fillups of gas so far.

At 50/50 freeway and in town, it is sitting pretty at 16/17 mpg. I have been adjusting little tuning bits here and there to see if anything changes.

I am running a FPR at 4psi to the carb,
and at 8 degrees nitial advance.

I might up it to 10. I have gone to 12 using the normal holley 1920, and that only caused a higher rate of temp increase, and nothing else. Never heard any "pinging" either.

Well, eye candy. Still detailing the engine bay since the weber changed a lot of the look. It gets that big air cleaner out of the picture and you can see a lot more.

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Author:  Serj22 [ Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:31 pm ]
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Well another update. I set timing to 12 degrees initial. The car ran beautifully on the freeway today. 15miles each way at 70mph. I feel like the car was bogging before at 8btdc, this Weber definitly operates better at more advanced.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Mar 01, 2014 3:56 pm ]
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That is a pretty typical when you run 12 degrees. The SL6 engines loves more timing and has a nice spunky feel. Something I learned many years ago and highly recommend.
Author:  Serj22 [ Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:44 pm ]
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Yup, 12 seems to be the sweet spot on my slant, and operates the best. It just feels right.

Now i am trying to think of a name for this setup. I mean it's not technically a supersix. It's like a Webersix, but I'm sure someone else already came up with something. I have the supersix stripe (self made) across the trunk that was made for the 1968-1969 Dodge dart model years (no it wasn't) so I'm thinking of more graphics to add to the car to promote weberism... I guess.

Maybe 225+38/38? Like they did with the +4 stuff? on the front fender...

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Still using up the 2nd tank of gas. Definitly using less since the timing change but nothing to report yet. Carb runs beautifully both on freeway and off.
Author:  Serj22 [ Mon Mar 10, 2014 8:41 pm ]
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Well, after 3 weeks, I'm going to go ahead and report that the jets used in the carb setup for the jeep kit are adequate, and I see no need to change them. 4psi is the way to go for fuel. If you drop it to 2.7 or lower the carb acts like it's choke never pulls. I can't really explain it, but it drives bad. At 4psi seems perfect - any more and you can pull the egr, or egr block off plate and watch fuel spill out, and smoke will come out of the carb on shutoff (typical too much pressure issues).

I will say that it gets 18-20mpg doing 60% freeway driving if you keep your foot out of it, and max out at 65. I have 2.73 gearing in the rear, and a 3spd auto. 12 degrees initial advance seems perfect as well.

One thing for the people looking to go Supersix - I'd say this is a much cooler, but not stock looking - option. It definitly has some getup and go. I went with the 38/38 based on the idea that it was a similar size comparably to the Carter BBD, though I believe it flows a lot more air.

The total cost I paid and parts needed to convert my 1968 /6 to a Webersix38, was:

-Jeep CJ Weber 38/38 kit(electric choke) $320
-Supersix intake $150
-Holley Fuel pressure regulator $25
-Fittings for fuel pressure regulator $20
-Stronger return spring $3

Everything else was already in/on the car, and if you have a cable type throttle, and a stock kickdown that's similar, this swap will literally take about an hour or so, because I already figured out the linkages for you. I'll make a full write up and drawings if anyone's interested. I just like it when information like this is readily available for someone who wants to do it.

Also the weber sounds a lot better than an open element Holley 1920.

HEre it is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbUFneYbj-s
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