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Heat conundrum
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54865		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Serj22 [ Fri Mar 21, 2014 6:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Its in exactly the stock spot where the factory sender was. Right behind the thermostat in the top of the head. The wire is a new 12v 12gauge wire that goes from the sender, behindthe alternator, across to the fender and up to the ffirewall harnessed with the ignition, tach, etc. Just like factory one was. I even used the factory wire for a while but assumed that wire was messed up somehow - both gauges did not function with the old wire.

I am getting a third one. I found a deal on a Chrysler six cyl tach, temp gauge and some other stuff. Well see what it does.
Author:  Serj22 [ Fri Mar 21, 2014 6:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Its in exactly the stock spot where the factory sender was. Right behind the thermostat in the top of the head. The wire is a new 12v 12gauge wire that goes from the sender, behindthe alternator, across to the fender and up to the ffirewall harnessed with the ignition, tach, etc. Just like factory one was. I even used the factory wire for a while but assumed that wire was messed up somehow - both gauges did not function with the old wire.

I am getting a third one. I found a deal on a Chrysler six cyl tach, temp gauge and some other stuff. Well see what it does.
Author:  FrankRaso [ Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:58 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I would hook up the stock temp, but it no longer works at all. It starts at cold, gradually moves up then goes back down to the left over and over.

I'm not an expert in instrument repair but I think you may have a bad instrument panel regulator or a bad circuit board. Dashboard instruments are supplied with 5V from a mechanical regulator. Replacement regulators are still available but you can also upgrade to an electronic regulator. A broken trace on the circuit board can be repaired with solder and nail polish.
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html
http://www.feep.org/weblogs/josh/archiv ... panel.html
Quote:
I got a thermometer and put it in the rad. The car had just stopped after a freeway drive, i puked the pressure into the overflow bottle and opened the cap with a towel. The coolant was moving in the radiator so I'm fairly certain the thermostat was open. The car was idling when i did the test. The gauge inside was at the point where it operated pretty much 100% of the time.

Here's what I saw:

Image
You could get scalded opening the rad cap of a hot engine - don't do that again. I would just let the engine warm up in the driveway with the cap off. When you first see coolant movement, your thermostat is starting to open. You can make the engine run hotter by covering part or all of the rad.
Quote:
About 160-165 maybe? And I think the movement in the radiator may be due to the holes in the thermostat - I don't know if it's "open" yet. It probably would open when the interior gauge hit 210, at which point the temperature stays the same consistantly.

Image

And probably 190-200,

So I'd assume if the thermometer said 180, the interior gauge would likely show 210. That's just a theory.

So is it safe to assume the temp is around 180 when the gauge is 210?
I don't think you would see very much flow in the rad tank from 3 very small holes in the thermostat. I get zero flow through my thermostat (Stant SuperStat) with a cold engine.

Starting with a cold engine, watch the flow in the rad. The thermostat should be completely closed, which would result in a negligible flow to the rad. If you can see movement, your thermostat is not closing properly.

You can double-check the accuracy of your meat thermometer by putting it in boiling water on the stove. Since you're very close to sea-level, the water temperature at a rolling boil in the pot should be exactly 212°F. If there's an adjusting screw on the back of your gauge, you can use this to calibrate the gauge.
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