Slant Six Forum :: Does this look familair to anyone

Actually, the reason there are only a few servicable parts in the kits is because nothing really wears out. You can definately get an old carb to run like brand new, but it takes time, attention and patience. Plus it doesnt hurt to start with a carb that you KNOW hasnt been tampered with or altered in any way.

I have only seen a couple carbs that were unusable, and usually does stem from misuse or alterations. The others were just things like worn throttle shaft that could have been rebushed, or major components simply broken or missing.

Again this is really assuming that the carb is complete and nobody had physically damaged anything over the years from neglect or abuse...

For your issue, you may be able to run the bowl over a perfectly flat surface with some sandpaper until it is pretty even again. Other issues tend to stem from screws or bolt coming loose after a couple heat cycles and can be remedied by snugging them all back down

Author:	1930 [ Thu Jul 31, 2014 11:54 am ]
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Quote: Actually, the reason there are only a few servicable parts in the kits is because nothing really wears out. You can definately get an old carb to run like brand new, but it takes time, attention and patience. Plus it doesnt hurt to start with a carb that you KNOW hasnt been tampered with or altered in any way. I have only seen a couple carbs that were unusable, and usually does stem from misuse or alterations. The others were just things like worn throttle shaft that could have been rebushed, or major components simply broken or missing. Again this is really assuming that the carb is complete and nobody had physically damaged anything over the years from neglect or abuse... For your issue, you may be able to run the bowl over a perfectly flat surface with some sandpaper until it is pretty even again. Other issues tend to stem from screws or bolt coming loose after a couple heat cycles and can be remedied by snugging them all back down Just to up-date this as it turned out the carb was loose on the intake manifold and there were some severely dry rotted vacuum lines. Once I took care of these problems all became well. I have been driving the truck the past 2 days now and I could not ask for a smoother running carbureted truck. Except for a huge lack of power I am very happy with the truck. Not sure why it cant get out of its own way though. Engine supposedly ( I have receipts from previous owner ) has been newly re-built. I am comparing this too my much heavier slant six powered 4 wheel drive truck with manual trans, this one is a 727 auto. Maybe thats part of the problem.

Author:	Reed [ Thu Jul 31, 2014 1:47 pm ]
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Make sure the kickdown lnkage is adjusted properly (and hooked up).

Author:	1930 [ Thu Jul 31, 2014 2:49 pm ]
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Quote: Make sure the kickdown lnkage is adjusted properly (and hooked up). I think that is maybe part of a problem. Ill have to see if I can figure out the adjustment. If I am not sure I am sure someone can clue me in. Im going to do a compression check ect and report back hopefully within the next few days.

Author:	Reed [ Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:21 pm ]
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Quote: Quote: Make sure the kickdown lnkage is adjusted properly (and hooked up). I think that is maybe part of a problem. Ill have to see if I can figure out the adjustment. If I am not sure I am sure someone can clue me in. Im going to do a compression check ect and report back hopefully within the next few days. Kickdown adjustment: (1) Put something heavy on the accelerator pedal so it is held to the floor (2) Remove the air cleaner and verify that the throttleon the carb is fully open. If it isn't, adjust the throttle cable until it is. (3) verify that the spring between the carb and the kickdown lnkage is taking up all the slack in the kickdown linkage (4) At the transmission, loosen the bolt on the clamp on the kickdown arm on the transmission (this is the bolt that holds the kickdown rod to the lever arm) (5) push the kickdown lever towards the rear of the vehicle until it stops moving (6) holding the lever all the way back, tighten the biolt on the clamp. Reinstall the air cleaner and take the heavy object off the throttle pedal. Drive it and see if it is any better.

Author:	1930 [ Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:06 pm ]
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Thanks very much for the directions. I will do as you instructed and see what happens.

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Does this look familair to anyone https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55696	Page 2 of 2

Author:	Eatkinson [ Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:16 pm ]
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I've used the kits from Daytona with good success and they're quick and reasonable with a friendly small mom & pop feel. Highly recommend. http://www.daytonaparts.com/

Author:	1930 [ Sun Aug 03, 2014 4:44 am ]
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Quote: I've used the kits from Daytona with good success and they're quick and reasonable with a friendly small mom & pop feel. Highly recommend. http://www.daytonaparts.com/ Thanks, I may check them out.

Author:	1930 [ Sun Aug 03, 2014 4:47 am ]
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Ok leak is mysteriously back or more likely wishful thinking just made it go away temporarily. I just went out there and tightened screws, they were all a bit lose but not much considering what my big ape hands can manage given a long enogh screwdriver so my question is how can I remove the cover and straighten it? It was said earlier that it could be straightened but no instruction on how to do so. Iver heard of guys checking them on a flat piece of glass but I havent read anything beyond that as far as getting them straight. Id rather get it straightened out than put a thicker gasket in there but Im sure a thicker gasket would work as well.

Author:	matv91 [ Sun Aug 03, 2014 6:04 am ]
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http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley-1904_ep_320.html Try this with bowl cover too.

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