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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 8:15 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
Car Model:
I'm not too keen on seal conditioners or stop-leaks. It's a band-aid approach to dealing with a worn out seal. The problem is that whatever you put in will also affect the piston seals in the clutch drums. Some products can cause the seals to swell & "punk-out" (get really soft)- it can work ok then something will blow-out & fail. Other chemicals can make the seals pliable for a bit then they get harder than before. You pays your money & takes your chances.

_________________
63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 7:11 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 8:43 pm
Posts: 1153
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart GT
Finally got enough stuff moved out of the garage into the house that I can fit the dart, bringing it over tomorrow, hopefully I can identify the leaky spit early, thanks for the help!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:39 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Jun 26, 2011 11:11 am
Posts: 89
Car Model:
If it is leaking low enough to not drive then it isn't the front seal. (those usually leak much more while driving anyway)
The dipstick seal is my first bet. it is not the easiest to trace back to the source because it leaks onto a large flat area and gets everywhere.
The shift selector and neutral safety switch should be easy to determine by looking at where it has been flowing.
The last most insidious option is the pan gasket. it can be hard to detect because it wicks around the gasket edges and so doesn't point to a specific spot. But the worst part is that just replacing the gasket might not solve it. If the pan has been over torqued and the bolt holes have pushed up then when you put in a new gasket the pan wont put enough pressure between the bolt holes and will slowly leach fluid out. It isn't hard to flatten the holes back out but if you don't know to look for it you wont know to fix it.


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