Slant Six Forum :: Sputtering at idle....rich!

Quote:

Me quoting me: Speaking of corrosion at electrical connections; I meant to say that any corrosion in a circuit acts like a resistor, in other words corroded connections will lower voltage in a circuit. Ohm's Law explains the relationship between voltage, resistance, and current. Once one understands this relationship, electrical circuits become much easier to under stand.

For now just think of corrosion as a voltage reducer, so a gage that requires 5v to work properly, will read low if only 4 volts are available for what ever reason. The other concept in automotive wiring or circuits is the ground path back to battery's negative terminal is the other half of a circuit, and can have excessive resistance due mostly to dirty corroded connections.

One more thing; any kind of resistance in a circuit be it a light bulb or some crud on battery cable connection generates heat, sometimes too much heat and stuff melts or worse the Fire Gods come for a visit...

And what do you suggest to do about corrosion on terminals. I have fell in love recently with dye-electric grease but would like to clean things better before applying the grease.

Where did you buy your dye-electric grease???
Also, I use one of those battery terminal cleaners, and then on other stuff I use sandpaper, or a wirewheel, like on the engine block...etc.

And what do you suggest to do about corrosion on terminals. I have fell in love recently with dye-electric grease but would like to clean things better before applying the grease.

Where did you buy your dye-electric grease???

Also, I use one of those battery terminal cleaners, and then on other stuff I use sandpaper, or a wirewheel, like on the engine block...etc.

I was at advance today, to grab a few things. I did find it. I didn't know Permatex made it in A BIG TUBE. I bought new battery cable, ground strap, just a bunch of stuff to get me started.

I put the link up to advance auto where I bought it.
They had a tiny tube, but I bought the large one, so I have it for a while. It was $6.39 a tube for the large one.
It's where they keep their permatex gasket sealers and stuff.
Part number...22058.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perm ... 12027861-P

If you want to improve conductivity at contact points in the car, like on the ammeter terminals, or on the high current carrying terminals in the bulkhed connects, you ought to be using silver loaded dielectric grease. Google for just that; it is not cheap but I am using on my '62 Dart and have restored the electrical blower contacts in the heater control to good working order, and also the dimmer control inside the original headlight switch is now working 100% like new with this; it has perfectly smooth dimming action now, and did not work at all before.

I also use a product called CoolAmp from a company in Oregon, that is a rub-on silver plating for switch contacts and moving contact. I use that first and then supplement with the silver loaded dielectric grease.

You can find both on eBay for less.

Quote:

I know it might not make much sense but since I have started using just the plain old die-electric grease anywhere and everywhere on my older vehicles I have noticed a perceptible difference. Just seems like the vehicle appreciates it if that makes sense.

You came to the right place; switch central! The dome light is a separate switch contact from the instrument lights within the switch assembly. So if that works, most likely your dimmer rheostat is just not working.

The dimmer has about 3 places within the switch to corrode/have issues. +12v comes out of the switch to a contact arm that rides on the nichrome coil (which rotates) that forms the rheostat; that contact is problem spot 1. Then, the nichrome coil is crimped under a fixed contact on the rotating part; that crimp is problem spot #2. Then the fixed contact on the rotating part goes to a ring that rides on a matching fixed ring on the switch. That is problem spot #3.

I restored mine becasue I am trying to keep all original parts. (Heck, I just bought a NIB original fuel pump in the original Carter box, for example.) I silver plated the contacts in the dimmer with the CoolAmp, and lubed any rotating contact with the silver loaded grease, and reworked the above-mentioned crimp. (As well as the main power lugs on the switch.)

You can buy new switches; I looked at them, and they are just cheaper material than the old one. So, that is another reason for me to be motivated to restore the original one.

Well, I always to NAPA and ask for the Echlin brand but they look pretty similar to all the others nowadays; doesn't look much different if at all than their non-Echlin part....but I'd probably go there anyhow. At $20 for the Echlin part, you can put a new one in every few years!

Classic carries the same stuff so don't bother there IMO. (And, BTW, I have not looked at other sources, but just IMO I would be cautious with Rock Auto or any box store for this part; might be the same part or might be worse.)

Author:	1930 [ Sat Aug 02, 2014 2:02 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: Quote: Me quoting me: Speaking of corrosion at electrical connections; I meant to say that any corrosion in a circuit acts like a resistor, in other words corroded connections will lower voltage in a circuit. Ohm's Law explains the relationship between voltage, resistance, and current. Once one understands this relationship, electrical circuits become much easier to under stand. For now just think of corrosion as a voltage reducer, so a gage that requires 5v to work properly, will read low if only 4 volts are available for what ever reason. The other concept in automotive wiring or circuits is the ground path back to battery's negative terminal is the other half of a circuit, and can have excessive resistance due mostly to dirty corroded connections. One more thing; any kind of resistance in a circuit be it a light bulb or some crud on battery cable connection generates heat, sometimes too much heat and stuff melts or worse the Fire Gods come for a visit... And what do you suggest to do about corrosion on terminals. I have fell in love recently with dye-electric grease but would like to clean things better before applying the grease. Where did you buy your dye-electric grease??? Also, I use one of those battery terminal cleaners, and then on other stuff I use sandpaper, or a wirewheel, like on the engine block...etc. Napa carries it CRC ( brand name ) technician grade Die Electric grease. Id like to clean the terminals for instance inside of the junction blocks ect, pretty sure there is some sort of spray, cannot remember what that was though.

Author:	wjajr [ Sat Aug 02, 2014 4:43 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: And what do you suggest to do about corrosion on terminals. I have fell in love recently with dye-electric grease but would like to clean things better before applying the grease. I have a 1 oz. tube of electrical silicone grease and several other smaller ones collected over the years when they turn up missing in a safe place... probably close to the same place all those screw drivers are retiring at if you catch my drift . For our application we don't need NASA quality, just something that keeps air and moisture off of new, or freshly cleaned surfaces. And what do you suggest to do about corrosion on terminals. I have fell in love recently with dye-electric grease but would like to clean things better before applying the grease. When I got my rundown Dart in 2008 the first system I tackled was its electrical mess. I drove the thing onto a trailer hauled it home 200 miles, and it would not start, did not have any juice past the battery, and had to be pushed off of the trailer; that was first week of March @ 15 degrees. What I did was replace bulkhead connector and refitted new brass connectors (BM100 & FM100) at ends of each conductor passing through the bulkhead connector. Than every wire under dash and hood was inspected, replaced as needed, and its brass connectors replaced. Under hood & bulkhead connectorâ€™s brass were gooped up with a dab of grease. Keep in mind dielectric grease is just that a dielectric, and used as a barrier in or on a tightly fitting brass spade connecter is so thin that it wonâ€™t impede the flow of electrons enough to cause a problem. However I would not slather it on battery terminals and related clamps, in this application the barrier is thicker; just clean both terminal and clamp, install grease free metal to metal to terminal, and coat the outside of clamp to keep air and moisture from mating serfaces. Quote: Where did you buy your dye-electric grease??? Any place that has electrical stuff, Lowes, Radio Shack, auto parts store. I finally got a tube big enough to be easily found in the pile. Quote: Also, I use one of those battery terminal cleaners, and then on other stuff I use sandpaper, or a wirewheel, like on the engine block...etc. Anything that cleans off lead oxide down to clean shiny metal is good. Lately I have been using some battery terminal cleaner in a spray can that chemically removes oxidation turning that chemical yellow in the process & brushing to make shiny, and spray terminal dressing to seal out moisture made by various companies found at the battery wall of one favorite auto parts store. Baking soda mixed in water will also remove battery terminal oxidation.

Author:	TonyPgh [ Sat Aug 02, 2014 6:45 pm ]
Post subject:
I was at advance today, to grab a few things. I did find it. I didn't know Permatex made it in A BIG TUBE. I bought new battery cable, ground strap, just a bunch of stuff to get me started.

Author:	1930 [ Sun Aug 03, 2014 3:29 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I was at advance today, to grab a few things. I did find it. I didn't know Permatex made it in A BIG TUBE. I bought new battery cable, ground strap, just a bunch of stuff to get me started. What is the Permatex big tube number? Id like to locate it in a tube as well. I have a can of it that is under pressure and forces the stuff out which always means more oozing out than what I needed.

Author:	TonyPgh [ Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:10 pm ]
Post subject:
I put the link up to advance auto where I bought it. They had a tiny tube, but I bought the large one, so I have it for a while. It was $6.39 a tube for the large one. It's where they keep their permatex gasket sealers and stuff. Part number...22058. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perm ... 12027861-P

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Sputtering at idle....rich! https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55880	Page 2 of 4

Author:	1930 [ Mon Aug 04, 2014 2:28 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I put the link up to advance auto where I bought it. They had a tiny tube, but I bought the large one, so I have it for a while. It was $6.39 a tube for the large one. It's where they keep their permatex gasket sealers and stuff. Part number...22058. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perm ... 12027861-P Thanks Tony

Author:	TonyPgh [ Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:50 am ]
Post subject:
No problem at all. Glad to help!

Author:	nm9stheham [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 12:39 pm ]
Post subject:
If you want to improve conductivity at contact points in the car, like on the ammeter terminals, or on the high current carrying terminals in the bulkhed connects, you ought to be using silver loaded dielectric grease. Google for just that; it is not cheap but I am using on my '62 Dart and have restored the electrical blower contacts in the heater control to good working order, and also the dimmer control inside the original headlight switch is now working 100% like new with this; it has perfectly smooth dimming action now, and did not work at all before. I also use a product called CoolAmp from a company in Oregon, that is a rub-on silver plating for switch contacts and moving contact. I use that first and then supplement with the silver loaded dielectric grease. You can find both on eBay for less.

Author:	1930 [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 1:46 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: If you want to improve conductivity at contact points in the car, like on the ammeter terminals, or on the high current carrying terminals in the bulkhed connects, you ought to be using silver loaded dielectric grease. Google for just that; it is not cheap but I am using on my '62 Dart and have restored the electrical blower contacts in the heater control to good working order, and also the dimmer control inside the original headlight switch is now working 100% like new with this; it has perfectly smooth dimming action now, and did not work at all before. I also use a product called CoolAmp from a company in Oregon, that is a rub-on silver plating for switch contacts and moving contact. I use that first and then supplement with the silver loaded dielectric grease. You can find both on eBay for less. I know it might not make much sense but since I have started using just the plain old die-electric grease anywhere and everywhere on my older vehicles I have noticed a perceptible difference. Just seems like the vehicle appreciates it if that makes sense.

Author:	TonyPgh [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:11 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: If you want to improve conductivity at contact points in the car, like on the ammeter terminals, or on the high current carrying terminals in the bulkhed connects, you ought to be using silver loaded dielectric grease. Google for just that; it is not cheap but I am using on my '62 Dart and have restored the electrical blower contacts in the heater control to good working order, and also the dimmer control inside the original headlight switch is now working 100% like new with this; it has perfectly smooth dimming action now, and did not work at all before. I also use a product called CoolAmp from a company in Oregon, that is a rub-on silver plating for switch contacts and moving contact. I use that first and then supplement with the silver loaded dielectric grease. You can find both on eBay for less. Funny you brought that up! On my 65 Belverdere, "just bought it", my headlight knob when turned to dimm, or bright..."no dash lights". But when I turn it to the dome light position, "all the way counterclockwise", the dash lights come on. Of course so does the dome light. Is that my switch just being worn out, or??

Author:	nm9stheham [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 4:44 pm ]
Post subject:
You came to the right place; switch central! The dome light is a separate switch contact from the instrument lights within the switch assembly. So if that works, most likely your dimmer rheostat is just not working. The dimmer has about 3 places within the switch to corrode/have issues. +12v comes out of the switch to a contact arm that rides on the nichrome coil (which rotates) that forms the rheostat; that contact is problem spot 1. Then, the nichrome coil is crimped under a fixed contact on the rotating part; that crimp is problem spot #2. Then the fixed contact on the rotating part goes to a ring that rides on a matching fixed ring on the switch. That is problem spot #3. I restored mine becasue I am trying to keep all original parts. (Heck, I just bought a NIB original fuel pump in the original Carter box, for example.) I silver plated the contacts in the dimmer with the CoolAmp, and lubed any rotating contact with the silver loaded grease, and reworked the above-mentioned crimp. (As well as the main power lugs on the switch.) You can buy new switches; I looked at them, and they are just cheaper material than the old one. So, that is another reason for me to be motivated to restore the original one.

Author:	nm9stheham [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 4:49 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: If you want to improve conductivity at contact points in the car, like on the ammeter terminals, or on the high current carrying terminals in the bulkhed connects, you ought to be using silver loaded dielectric grease. Google for just that; it is not cheap but I am using on my '62 Dart and have restored the electrical blower contacts in the heater control to good working order, and also the dimmer control inside the original headlight switch is now working 100% like new with this; it has perfectly smooth dimming action now, and did not work at all before. I also use a product called CoolAmp from a company in Oregon, that is a rub-on silver plating for switch contacts and moving contact. I use that first and then supplement with the silver loaded dielectric grease. You can find both on eBay for less. I know it might not make much sense but since I have started using just the plain old die-electric grease anywhere and everywhere on my older vehicles I have noticed a perceptible difference. Just seems like the vehicle appreciates it if that makes sense. Just pulling the contacts and re-seating them often makes a big difference; it'll scrape the contact points clean.

Author:	TonyPgh [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:18 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: You came to the right place; switch central! The dome light is a separate switch contact from the instrument lights within the switch assembly. So if that works, most likely your dimmer rheostat is just not working. The dimmer has about 3 places within the switch to corrode/have issues. +12v comes out of the switch to a contact arm that rides on the nichrome coil (which rotates) that forms the rheostat; that contact is problem spot 1. Then, the nichrome coil is crimped under a fixed contact on the rotating part; that crimp is problem spot #2. Then the fixed contact on the rotating part goes to a ring that rides on a matching fixed ring on the switch. That is problem spot #3. I restored mine becasue I am trying to keep all original parts. (Heck, I just bought a NIB original fuel pump in the original Carter box, for example.) I silver plated the contacts in the dimmer with the CoolAmp, and lubed any rotating contact with the silver loaded grease, and reworked the above-mentioned crimp. (As well as the main power lugs on the switch.) You can buy new switches; I looked at them, and they are just cheaper material than the old one. So, that is another reason for me to be motivated to restore the original one. I figured it was the switch, for what its doing. Is there a place you would recommend buying an aftermarket one from?

Author:	nm9stheham [ Wed Aug 06, 2014 9:09 am ]
Post subject:
Well, I always to NAPA and ask for the Echlin brand but they look pretty similar to all the others nowadays; doesn't look much different if at all than their non-Echlin part....but I'd probably go there anyhow. At $20 for the Echlin part, you can put a new one in every few years! Classic carries the same stuff so don't bother there IMO. (And, BTW, I have not looked at other sources, but just IMO I would be cautious with Rock Auto or any box store for this part; might be the same part or might be worse.)

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Author:	TonyPgh [ Wed Aug 06, 2014 11:37 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Well, I always to NAPA and ask for the Echlin brand but they look pretty similar to all the others nowadays; doesn't look much different if at all than their non-Echlin part....but I'd probably go there anyhow. At $20 for the Echlin part, you can put a new one in every few years! Classic carries the same stuff so don't bother there IMO. (And, BTW, I have not looked at other sources, but just IMO I would be cautious with Rock Auto or any box store for this part; might be the same part or might be worse.) Thanks, I will just call Napa, and see if they can get me one. I did see one on Rock Auto. I am glad you said something. The knob on my belvedere, is there a clip or something that pulls the knob off?