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Should I mess with it?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55904		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  Danarchy [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:19 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Before you try to break the nuts loose spray the crap out of them with PB Blaster for a couple days. You'll be glad you did.
Quote:
PB Blaster is your friend.
Quote:
....what he said
+1,2,3..?
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:30 am ]
Post subject: 
As an FYI, it's the 2 end positions that are a concern... the iron conical washer in the centre position looks correct.

http://www.dutra.org/doug/draft-webpage ... ctions.htm

I'd spray and wire brush the exposed threads and then carefully try to unscrew the nuts... using 2 wrenches on the "double-nut" set, to get the top nut off first.

To be honest.. I would leave them alone IF they do not come-off easily with light effort. (if needed, go break some studs off a junk head, to get a "feel" for it)
If you can get them off, replace with the correct brass washers and locking nuts.
The contact surfaces should be smooth to allow for sliding action as the manifold heats & cools.
DD
Author:  nm9stheham [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 12:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
On the topic of brass nuts, it used to be common to use them on exhaust to manifold flange bolts. It is still a good practice to use them on any exhaust fastener that you want to remove intact some time later.
Author:  1930 [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 1:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Just because it should be linked in this thread ...

DOC'S MANIFOLD INSTALLATION ARTICLE
Good call and I have read this ( printed and saved ) but I believe alot of this stuff was written quite a few years ago and of course things have changed, maybe a better way/step has come around. Thats why I ask sometimes what might seem obvious.
Author:  1930 [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 1:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
As an FYI, it's the 2 end positions that are a concern... the iron conical washer in the centre position looks correct.

http://www.dutra.org/doug/draft-webpage ... ctions.htm

I'd spray and wire brush the exposed threads and then carefully try to unscrew the nuts... using 2 wrenches on the "double-nut" set, to get the top nut off first.

To be honest.. I would leave them alone IF they do not come-off easily with light effort. (if needed, go break some studs off a junk head, to get a "feel" for it)
If you can get them off, replace with the correct brass washers and locking nuts.
The contact surfaces should be smooth to allow for sliding action as the manifold heats & cools.
DD
Im going to go out there in abit and try and loosen them, I bet they will come right off but will let you know either way how I make out. Thanks
Author:  1930 [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 1:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
On the topic of brass nuts, it used to be common to use them on exhaust to manifold flange bolts. It is still a good practice to use them on any exhaust fastener that you want to remove intact some time later.
Slantsixdan wrote a good post about the brass hardware, I cant seem to find it right now but I am hoping I will, covered all the part numbers to get the good stuff.
Author:  1930 [ Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
Heck that was easier than I thought, they just came right off, Image

I usually end up with the entire stud coming out like pictured to the right. I have quite a few of these from junkyard vehicles ( that I pull cause you never know who might need one ) and most of the time even putting them in a vise, soaking them down, waiting ect they just will not budge.

I was lucky to have a set that was ready to go though, I will clean up the mounting surfaces a bit over the weekend with at least a wire wheel and put this new hardware on.

Thanks again for the replies.
Author:  1930 [ Wed Aug 06, 2014 3:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Looking again at Docs manifold installation article it states............ The two acorn nuts go on the two top, outer end studs, with the coned shaped part of the nut fitting into the dished/conical part of the round brass washers..............

My brass washers appear identical on both sides, I have even laid a straightedge across the faces of the brass washers and I cant detect a dished/conical side?

I see and understand the dished conical steel washer that is in the center position but I see no such thing on these outer end brass washers.

Was this part of the instruction maybe intended for an earlier design brass washer?

These were pulled from slant exhaust manifolds all hydraulic 81 up manifolds.
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:52 am ]
Post subject: 
The brass washers, used on the end studs, are not conical... they are flat-faced, as described.

These washers should have an ID chamfer on one side, designed to accept the slotted "cone" on the lock nut. This special nut grips the stud, when the nut is tightened into the brass washer's angled ID.
DD
Author:  1930 [ Wed Aug 06, 2014 2:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok I can see that the nut goes in one side further than the other so I understand. Thanks
Author:  BUCKET 636 [ Sun Feb 08, 2015 11:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have done a search but can't seem to find an answer , sorry about the old thread revival.
I am installing extractors/headers on my slant.
Do I still need to use the two brass washers and conical nuts on the two end studs ?
Author:  Fopar [ Mon Feb 09, 2015 12:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
Not if they are 2 piece yes if they are 1 piece.

Richard
Author:  BUCKET 636 [ Wed Feb 11, 2015 1:17 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Not if they are 2 piece yes if they are 1 piece.

Richard
Thanks Richard.
Would you class these as 2 or 1 piece ?
As you can see all six pipes go to one collector but the front 3 and rear 3 pipes are on 2 different mounting flanges , if you know what I mean , so I don't know if they could be considered a 1 or 2 piece unit.
I don't know what brand they are as they have no markings .

Image
Author:  Fopar [ Wed Feb 11, 2015 4:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
Those are 2 piece, look at the head mount plates.The stock manifold is a 1 piece flange and needs to have the extra movement.

Richard
Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Sat Feb 14, 2015 6:36 pm ]
Post subject:  McMaster Carr
You can still by the correct brass nuts and the compression or "acorn" nuts at McMaster Carr.

All you need is the dished washers that go with the acorn nuts at each end of the manifold. If you PM me, I can find the correct ones for you and give you the McMaster item numbers and/or send you the correct ones. Read DD's install notes first, so you know how to install them. Also, if you are taking the manifolds loose (I agree with the posts that say if it ain't broke, don't bother) for some reason and replacing the gasket use Remflex gasket, it will not leak and provides great crush leeway for the manifolds alignment.

brian
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