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| DIY brake hardline replacement.... https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56068 |
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| Author: | mpgFanatic [ Thu Sep 25, 2014 10:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I have burst several brake lines that looked real nice on the out side over the years while under way
Ah, that's good to know. At what ages, roughly?Just because I've not had a problem with non-rusty 25-yr-old lines doesn't mean much. - Erik |
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| Author: | bob fisher [ Sat Oct 04, 2014 5:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | the old rusted brake line trick |
hi sages- read with interest this thread on brake lines and tools. my story may shed some light. two of my sl6 tanks developed this problem . in the 77 aspen wagon(360k) noticed once when replacing the 3 brake hoses after one burst(1993) that the long line from the proportioning valve to the top of the differential had flaking rust. replaced it but had to use two lengths and a union. did the job with common pliers , a tube bending lever and a special plier from harbor freight. didnt have to do any flaring. later did the same thing with the 76 feather duster. both lived most of their lives in nj salt winters. recently the two tubes beginning on topof the diff rusted out on the feather which i still have. since it would involve flaring i spoke to a shyster mechanic about it . as expected he told me it was a" big job" and would cost me a million dollars. did it myself with the harbor freight bender pliers and bought a double flare tool kit for $75 from napa service tools. noticed it was made by KD tools from ohio in america. seemed to work fine. any opinions here on kd tools since you folks warned readers to avoid cheap tools from bergonia and beyond. never heard any bad press about kd. except for the kd tool, did the rest of the job for chump change. next time will try the cunifer lines recommended by uncle dan. appreciate all you say . regards bob f |
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| Author: | bob fisher [ Thu Oct 09, 2014 4:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | need a further comment from uncle dan |
hello uncle dan- read your recommended link about cunifer. their lines do seem much more easy to use and form. my only inquiry is about your experience with their reliability . copper and nickel are much softer than steel. heavy stress is placed on metal brake lines by hard braking and chassis twisting. wouldnt want a hard brake application to fail while piloting the feather down thunder road at 85 . remember what happened to mitchum. thanks tons uncle . bob f |
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| Author: | Josh P [ Thu Sep 10, 2015 9:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: need a further comment from uncle dan |
Quote: my only inquiry is about your experience with their reliability . copper and nickel are much softer than steel. heavy stress is placed on metal brake lines by hard braking and chassis twisting.
Copper-Nickel alloy is a very reliable material for brake lines (http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... brake.html) and is being used in cars that weigh more, produce more braking pressure, and have higher top speeds than most on this forum. If Aston Martin, Porsche, Audi and Rolls Royce are all using this kind of alloy for their brake lines then its perfectly safe for our cars with their fewer demands.Also, FWIW, its DOT approved. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Fri Sep 11, 2015 5:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I bought this Dart when it was 24 years old and the very first thing I did was replace all the brake lines. When I restored it 13 years ago I replaced the rubber flex hoses with stainless. At that time I put in DOT 5 brake fluid and labeled the master cylinder DOT 5 ONLY. There is minor controversy around this among racers, but for street machines it is an excellent choice, as long as some dummy does not mix in DOT 4. Sam |
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