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ProCycle's FI Turbo build https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56352 |
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Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:50 pm ] |
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I milled the cut end of the manifold 15 degrees to help tuck the turbo in closer to the motor. The 15 degree angle will also mean I won't have to re-arrange the wastegate actuator which might otherwise interfere with the intake. |
Author: | obakemono [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 5:18 pm ] |
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What are you going to do with the sawed off part with the heat control valve? |
Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 5:56 pm ] |
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Toss it. Is there some use for it??? |
Author: | obakemono [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:43 pm ] |
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Yep, I could use it to rebuild my manifold's valve. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:59 pm ] |
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It's yours. Just pay the shipping. PM me |
Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 8:09 pm ] |
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I 'cold welded' the T3 turbo flange to the manifold and smoothed out as much of the transition as I could get to. I'm pretty jazzed about how well the stock manifold lends itself to taking advantage of the twin scroll design of the turbo. The 'cold weld' process for cast iron is new to me but seemed like a good way to approach this particular mod. Time will tell how well it holds up. Here it is assembled. The turbo is tucked in pretty well. |
Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:49 pm ] |
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What's cold welding of cast iron? |
Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sun Oct 12, 2014 5:19 am ] |
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Quote: What's cold welding of cast iron?
I think this is what he means. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yopcz-IYDyQ Greg |
Author: | ProCycle [ Sun Oct 12, 2014 7:33 am ] |
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Yep. That video is a good example. In a nutshell: Make 1/2" to 3/4" welds. Peen each weld thoroughly with an air hammer immediately after laying it down. Let the piece cool completely between making each weld. The idea is to avoid the large swings in temperature that can cause cracking. Peening counteracts the stresses of shrinking as the weld cools by spreading the bead out a little bit. You are also trying to minimize the amount of carbon that migrates up out of the cast iron into the weld bead. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Mon Oct 20, 2014 5:21 pm ] |
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It was a waste of time trying to find Holley jets locally. I could find 2 packs on the web but ordering a bunch of separate 2 packs seemed too wasteful of my precious build dollars. Especially since any jetting I do with the 1920 will only be temporary. My solution was to make an adapter to run 'large round' Mikuni jets. I have a full selection of these on hand so future tuning will be simple. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Mon Nov 10, 2014 2:13 pm ] |
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Ok, a little more progress this past weekend. Most of the initial block prep is done. Here I'm tapping the lifter drainback holes for some standoffs. The standoffs keep a reservoir of oil around the tops of the lifters. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Mon Nov 10, 2014 2:22 pm ] |
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I also got started fabricating the new intake manifold. First I ran a stock aluminum manifold through the bandsaw. Then cut out some aluminum plate to join the runners and serve as one side of the plenum. A little fitup work And some welding And there's a beginning of the manifold |
Author: | Ssg Pohlman [ Mon Nov 10, 2014 9:34 pm ] |
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Seems we have almost the same thing going on. Only I don't have all the goodies like a mill, and boy could I use one. I'm going carb first so I'll stay tuned in w your progress. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:42 pm ] |
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It took forever to find the right extended nose injectors with enough flow. These are 800cc Bosch injectors used in some Audis and other euro cars. I machined up some injector bungs to fit them. And bored my 'manifold in progress' to position the injectors at 30 degrees. Here's the partially completed manifold with the bungs dropped in. I'll epoxy them in place rather than try to weld them. |
Author: | Ssg Pohlman [ Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:42 am ] |
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If you would sir, measure the extended tip portion of those injectors? Im trying to find some that have enough meat to be threaded for 1/8" npt. Or ones that are larger than 1/8" npt. |
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