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| Run out specs on rear axles? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56449 |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:06 pm ] |
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Quote: http://www.nucap.com/products/solutions/brake-align/
Found this one earlier. Couldn't find application chart, or list of dealers. Sent an email inquiry.Sam |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:08 pm ] |
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There's a pdf file on the right hand side of the page with applications |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:11 pm ] |
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Quote: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSxCNbjKi-0
Found this one earlier also. This is what sent me on the search for dealers. The kit they are demonstrating costs over $600 from Summit.Thanks though. Please post if you find an application, or spec chart for Raybestos. i have found dealers for them, and their prices are very reasonable. Just don't know what part number to order. Sam |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:43 pm ] |
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I'll try to confirm, but the raybestos part number at summit looks like a variation of the nucap part number nucap 402-xx = raybestos BA402xx |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:48 pm ] |
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You'll have to decide if this is enough confirmation.... Lookup nucap part number change to BAyyyxx number search for that part number at rockauto. then click on the highlighted part number to get a list of cars that shim is for........ |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:56 am ] |
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Called Raybestos direct. Their shims that fit the 95 Mustang GT are thus: BA 90403 .003" correction BA 90406 .006 correction BA 90409 .009 correction. Summit does not stock them but arranges drop shipment. I did not place an order, but will look them up on Rock Auto tonight. It seems like the mustang GT should fit fine. Thanks again fir the support and advice here. Sam |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Mon Oct 27, 2014 4:44 pm ] |
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According to RockAuto's web catalog part number 90506 is front and rear on the Mercury Grand Marquis, while 90406 is front on the Mustang and 90506 is for the rear on the Mustang. They do not list the 90509 as available, which would be the preferred size. I am still hunting. I may call Summit again. They can order them as special order. A pair of '09's would fix the driver's side, and a single 09 would fix the passenger's side. For reasons not understood, after sanding the pass side and torquing down with five nuts the runout was a modest .008. I did not go back and check the hub alone again. Instead I marked the rotor and hub with index marks so I could install the same way each time. I think maybe I was getting some bearing play in my first reading. I will go through this exercise again with the driver's side. I may do this tonight if the Washington NFL team gets their rear end handed to them right away tonight. Otherwise I may sit and watch the game tonight. Sam PS. As it turns out, I did not do any car work tonight after all. Game was too exciting, with unexpected results! |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Mon Oct 27, 2014 7:00 pm ] |
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Sam, did you try rotating the rotor on the hub and see if it changes the run out? |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Tue Oct 28, 2014 4:40 am ] |
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Yes, and it does. There is clearly some run out in the rotor itself, and some positions cancel the run out in the hub slightly, and others accentuate it. The shims should be here by the week end. The drive shaft is due back on Wed. so maybe I can test everything sometime this week end. Then it is on to the OD install once I am sure all this is working OK. I am going to Sears at some point and get a 1/2" drive 13/16ths deep well socket to put the lugs on and off with my impact wrench. That is the thing that takes the most time about this process. Once I am able to spin the lugs off quickly I will play with every possible rotor position, find the best one, and select the shims that will help the most. This is kind of a new level of precision for me, all brought on by a hub that was so bad it would not work with disks. In the end I may pull the axle and have it resurfaced or replaced entirely, but for now I just wish to get it drivable again. I got this rear from Lou with no real knowledge as to its soundness. In the end I may elect to put a higher gear ratio in, and may buy a re manufactured pumpkin for that. If I have to replace or rebuild the axles, that is all OK too. So right now the rear has potential to be everything from perfect as it is, or just a case to fit new parts in. It is all good. Sam |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 4:50 am ] |
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I played with coke can material last night. Actually it was a diet ginger ale can. Metal measures .004 thick. I put two layers around the lowest stud. And one each on the next two up. When I bolted the rotor back on the run out was reduced by .015" as expected to a still unacceptable .020, but getting better. FWIW, the pass side has .008 runout now, and there is no bind with the brake caliper mounted on that side. It seems as if the GM calipers and mounts used in the conversion kit have enough slop to tolerate that much error. It seems as if a pair of 006" correction plates on top of the shims currently in place on the drivers side would produce near perfect alignment. Question is, how big of a NO NO would it be to leave the coke can shims in there. I do not abuse this car in any way. I am not rally racing it. Sorry I could not do the more professional beer can shim. Sam |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 7:54 am ] |
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I may need to drop by and leave a supply of more professional debris in your garage..... ...........a roach is about .015 thick when compressed...... Should I ring chips ans dip as well? |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:20 am ] |
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Do not use the can shims........... You don't want any dead air under the rotor or concentrated points of pressure. The angled shim will make full contact on both sides. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Thu Oct 30, 2014 6:52 am ] |
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Sandy, drop by with a Rudemaster load of beer cans anytime. Sam |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Thu Oct 30, 2014 6:53 am ] |
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Quote: Do not use the can shims...........
Ok,
You don't want any dead air under the rotor or concentrated points of pressure. The angled shim will make full contact on both sides. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:27 pm ] |
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Shims arrived today and I installed them and played with caliper adapter shims to get them centered on the rotor. I was able to get runout on pass. side down to .002. You can actually get that much movement in the bearing play, so it is pretty much perfect. The drivers side is now down to.008, which works free of binding. If everything else is golden, or if the axle bearing needs replacing, I may have the drivers axle trued up eventually. Right now there are bigger fish to fry. I am a fan of the brake rotor shims now. For our application, they are only appropriate for rear wheel disks if you add them, as our front disks have one piece rotors. Thanks for all the advice, as always. I forgot to mention last night : the shims ordered from Summit arrived from Napa in Napa wrappers packed in a box with Summit labels.summit said they were being drop shipped, which means they now have a deal with Napa, whom they did not identify over the phone. Interesting. Sam |
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