Our base stock cr calculations on the engine put it at 7.69:1 We clayed a piston and had 0.375" valve/piston clearance. We're taking 0.100" off the head and 0.100" off the block. After shaving the head we went from a 58cc to a 44cc chamber. When all said and done, we will have around 11.03:1 compression.

Here's a pic of the head on the Block Master making it's first pass. It took about an hour with only taking 0.010" off at a time. Next up is the block.

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Andrew

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Given the cam you want to use, it's a little high for street use on the DCR, at 9.38:1 you may need to supplement the 92 octane with race fuel.... also, the lift of the cam and your offy intake will now be the restriction if you did a really good job on porting the head to use the O/S valves.... using a clifford intake, headers, and something in the .48-.51 lift range at 270 adv. duration, a HD rear end with good gearing and the TF904 prepped right with a higher than stock stall convertor the car would not have any problem hitting 14's regularly...

All of this also will require a good EI distributor with a nice mechanical curve to make the most of your build.

I always used to laugh when the machinist complained about the mess under his machine after taking a .100-.125 cut on a head or block (and both)....then complaining since I was the only client using his cut to fee chart above the .040 line...

You are going to have a fun ride...you might have to take it out for a few runs at the track...just to test it out....


-D.Idiot

We took your advice into consideration because even though this will be primarily a track car we do want it to be street-able. With that we only took 50 thou off the head getting us around 9.9:1 compression.

We assembled the heads and I'm not too sure about the springs that came with the engine. They had a .055 shim and without it the spring height was measured 1.65" which only got us 45lbs seat pressure. It took some doing finding enough shims to equal out all the heights and in the end we ended up with a 1.63" spring height and added and inner spring. This got us to 75lbs on the seat. Should I just consider purchasing new springs? Any recommendations?

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Andrew

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BTW. This is by far the most helpful automotive site I've been to. You guys are extremely helpful and there's an wealth of information here.

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Andrew

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If you can get an Engine Builder set off Ebay, it's a decent priced set of double springs, and they come out of Portland...I've got two sets that are still going strong on heads that have seen 6000 rpms repeatedly on anything from 10-12:1 SCR engines...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/225-slant-six-R ... 9b&vxp=mtr

Good move on the just under 10:1...if you get more in place later, you can still up the cam and the lift a bit and make that work for you and still be streetable...(read-still use gas at the pump, more like middle grade)...
Either way, you can have fun with this one, then later if you want to go for more, you can get another engine and work it up to be "more"....

Here's a video of the rebuilt engine running (with open headers)

https://youtu.be/fryuTLMyg5I

I screwed up and ran into an issue with the pushrods as you can see below. With 180 thousands shaved off the block and head, I didn't back out the pushrod adjustment screws before bolting the rocker assembly back on. This most likely caused a bit of coil bind and bend a few rods (10 of them) as we turned it over by had to set the valves. We did get it running and surprisingly it seemed to run quite well. Well, I discovered the issue when I want to adjust the valves again. I found a new set locally and installed them correctly.

Then the used electric fuel pumps internal regulator when out and I was pushing 20 psi. That was a quick fix, but just cost time.

I should have the exhaust finished this week and I need to find a new gas pedal to hook up. The AT kick-down will be controlled by a choke cable. Oh, and I need to get the lexan installed.

Can't wait to get it on the track.

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