You sure? The water pump is sealed and dry; the job's done. Sleeping dogs don't usually react well to being woken.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You're right Dan, and don't think it hasn't been weighing on me to just wrap it up, close the chapter. Maybe I'll do that and test those out some other time...

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I must just be lucky.
I always use the regular gaskets on clean and flat surfaces.
I get the cheap ones too.
Never any trouble.
I don't like to use the silly cone in a tube, or any of that other stuff unless a gasket is not available; as in the cover on an 8 1/4 rear axle housing.

This is a different kind of silicon(if that is even what it is?), I have had a set of valve cover gasket on my BMW (Airhead) motorcycle for more than 2 decades from REAL GASKETS, and I have never had an issue with them. I put a valve cover gasket on my Slant 6 about a year ago along with an oil pan gasket.(No leaks.)
I don't know why the water pump gasket would be a problem.(I don't believe it would.), but REAL GASKETS makes Quality products that Last!

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1964 Dart GT

I get that "Real Gaskets" is a brand name that makes quality gaskets.
My point was, I just use regular gaskets and make sure the mating surfaces are properly prepared. Nothing special needed.

Yes, you must be lucky. Most folks use some sort of sealant or get leaks. Though a few on the board said they've done both ways (sealant and not) without leaks.

On my oil pan I use cork gaskets and some sealant and it doesn't leak. I see that side of the engine as more of permanent seal; only to be cracked open on rebuild or something drastic, so gluing it shut is OK. When I did my oil pan last time, I cleaned the surfaces really well, put a thin film of RTV silicone on the block surfaces where the cork goes, a bit thicker where the rubber overlaps the cork to fill that little space there (no silicone on the rubber gaskets, none needed). install the corks, then the rubber ones (the thicker RTV at the rubber cork overlap area will squish out a bit, so I wipe off the excess there). I let that set up for a day or so, then do the other side of the corks with a thin layer and bolt the pan on - no leaks and no sign of RTV squishing out anywhere, 'cause I use very little.

brian

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Of course I was over simplifying. I meant no disrespect. Just chiming in.

Back in the 70's when I first started playing with cars, I used to slather Indian Head shellac on every thing.
Turned out to be a big pain to get off again when needed.
I then looked into what the older guys were doing and along with trial and error, was how I learned how to do things.
I agree there is need for some goop on two piece gaskets on rear mains and oil pans and such.

None taken.
The great thing about this forum is you can express your opinion!
I am SOLD on REAL GASKETS because I have used them for along time with no problems. I use no RTV or any type of sealant and every few years I wash the gaskets with soap and water, and put them back on. They stay pliable and semi-soft.
The only problem might be that they are made too good and you never have to replace them, and the company goes out of business!

http://www.realgaskets.com/

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1964 Dart GT

Oh, I'm still using the silicone water pump gasket set, no leaks....

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