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| High voltage https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57915 |
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| Author: | camiking23 [ Thu Jun 25, 2015 4:56 am ] |
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Dead cell? Couldn't be. I did you test anyway it was 12.43v. And I'm going to give the electrics each their own source of power. Also I have my voltage meter reading voltage of the radio but that shouldn't make a difference where it is |
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| Author: | camiking23 [ Mon Jun 29, 2015 11:42 am ] |
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starting to think the regulator is bad or I need to wire my voltmeter directly to the battery. Got the timing right now it seems all my gauges move as the current drops and rises. |
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| Author: | camiking23 [ Thu Jul 02, 2015 6:10 am ] |
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Or could a higher amp alternater or after market do this to the voltage |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Fri Jul 03, 2015 4:23 am ] |
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Quote: Or could a higher amp alternater or after market do this to the voltage
No.Higher amp output just means there is more power or amps available. Voltage is potential, or kinda but not exactly like pressure is to hydraulics or plumbing. High or low amp alternator output is controlled the same way, by voltage regulator. Voltage regulators have various current, or amp ratings where a low or in our old car's 40 amp VR won't tolerate a 150 amp alternator much over 40 amps, but a high amp rated voltage regulator would work just fine on an old low output alternator at full output. When you ask parts counter guy for a 1964 Dart VR, you get a regulator sized to live with a low output alternator. Conversely asking for a regulator for a 1984 HD service vehicle such as a cop car, you will get a regulator that can handle much higher current requirements due to additional aftermarket cop equipment installed and were equipped with high output alternators. Chances are either your voltage regulator is defective for whatever reason sticking points, maladjusted points, or if electronic solid state device just defective, or there is a poor ground path to regulator and or voltage drop on the + side of connections & conductors to regulator. Voltage drop has to be chased down in a methodical way by measuring drops between each conductor, connection, and device starting at + terminal of battery to regulator, and ground path back to negative battery terminal. Once offending sections of VR circuit is discovered they must be repaired, or cleaned, or replaced whichever is easiest or most cost effective to restore charging circuit's reliability & correct operation. Chasing down electrical gremlins can be time consuming, and at times confusing depending on circuit's complexity. I suggest making a copy of engine bay and dashboard wiring diagrams affixing them to a clip board, and follow, test, mark off each leg as inspected of whatever circuit one is trying to repair. Wire diagrams found here. |
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| Author: | camiking23 [ Fri Jul 03, 2015 5:49 am ] |
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Would a lose connection at the alt gauge cause voltage to be low? Somehow it keeps coming lose causing the whole electrical system to fail. (Except for the hazards) |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sat Jul 04, 2015 4:41 am ] |
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Quote: Would a lose connection at the alt gauge cause voltage to be low?
Loose connections at alternator gage generally just cause an under dash fire. You need to figure a way to keep these two connections tight. Snug the two factory nuts up and add a second nut to lock them. Chances are good that arking has damaged the two threaded studs impleading one ability to fully seat these connectors, if so add a small brass washer between connector and nut. Also loose alternator gage connections at some point of will cause about every electrical circuit to cut in & out depending on which leg is loose; black or red.
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| Author: | camiking23 [ Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:55 pm ] |
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Would my msd box be constricting the flow causing it to always jump? From extreme low of 10.6 to a rising voltage of 17.4 while driving? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:09 pm ] |
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Quote: Would my msd box be constricting the flow
'Scuze me, I don't mean to offend you, but this might hurt:You are spinning your wheels and chasing your tail. To fix that, you really, really, really need to get the Stockel and Peterson books described in this thread so you can get a basic grasp of how cars work, as well as this book to get a basic grasp of auto electrics. Go. Read. Learn. |
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| Author: | camiking23 [ Fri Jul 10, 2015 6:27 am ] |
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The fact that every question doesn't have a answer doesn't mean I need to read a book. It means the answer has not been found and reading these books will only give an idea of what it could be. I ask questions to see if someone else has had the problem before not so I can be shot down. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:40 am ] |
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Quote: The fact that every question doesn't have a answer doesn't mean I need to read a book.
It's not that every question doesn't have an answer, it's that the questions you're asking are coming from an almost complete lack of knowledge about how cars work. I'm not saying your questions are stupid, I'm saying they show that you don't know even the basic minimal amount needed to ask relevant questions. That's fine, there's no shame in that -- we all have to start somewhere, but you cannot get the education you need by asking questions like yours one at a time. If you want to work on your own car and have a good result without wasting time, money, and energy, you really need to learn the basics. Get those books. Or don't, remain in the dark, and keep chasing your tail -- it's your choice (though refusing to learn and choosing instead to remain proudly ignorant really is a shame).
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