Slant Six Forum :: Another Turbo Build 67' Dart GT

Jet extensions are for the rear float bowl on a 4 bbl so the jets don't suck air at launch. You won't need them unless you mount the carburetor backwards.

I'm concerned about the amount of weight you're hanging off that little pipe on the oil pump. After killing 2 Stewart Warner gauge senders with vibration I ran an AN-3 line to a manifold block on the inner fender.

I don't understand what you're doing with that little oil cooler. Engine oil coolers are generally full flow. I used 1/2 NPT and AN-10 plumbing for my oil cooler.

Also, watch for fuel starvation. Only low output turbo slants have been able to use a mechanical fuel pump.

I don't know where the mechanical pumps fall down, but from here it doesn't seem to matter much. What you really need to monitor for fuel starvation is a differential pressure gauge so you know the difference between fuel pressure and air pressure at the carburetor inlet.

Very nice.
Pictures are a great help also. Now i know what mine should look like.
Think i am too am going to use a holset . Good luck!

probably dont wanna hear this but dont bother with that mechanical pump. i tried that when i started and it was only good for 5psi. went up to 8psi and it was iffy. neither of those boost levels are any fun. best to just get an electric pump and regulator and be done with it.

Author:	sandy in BC [ Tue Jan 05, 2016 7:42 pm ]
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Thanks!....you have many skills!

Author:	mopar225 [ Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:58 pm ]
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Thanks guys. The welds are def not the prettiest, but its going to get wrapped anyways! Next up this week, is mounting the Intercooler and oil cooler. I found an oil cooler for free and looks like its in great shape. So shouldn't be too much extra plumbing since I'm running line to the Turbo anyways. Question with the fuel pump. I was going to go the boost ref route instead of electric. I'm looking to run around 10psi at some point, but starting off 2-3psi. This still a reliable option? Think I've read some guys said no. Pump is new within the last year...

Author:	Valleyant [ Wed Jan 06, 2016 6:10 pm ]
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Nice set up. I'd recommend taking the special made pipes to a custom bender and having them replicated in case you should need to replace one in the future or if you would want to put a similar set up on another car. Seems like the hard part is done with the hard work you put into cutting/splicing welding the originals (prototypes) etc. Just an idea.

Author:	mopar225 [ Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:31 pm ]
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Valleyant. Thats def a good Idea, no one in town here that I'm aware does custom mandrel bends though. I did get a few things done here this past week. Got the intercooler mounted up, just needs to be moved down about an 1" from whats in the picture to clean the hood latch. Also got the oil pan removed, which was quite the Job!! Yikes, jacked up on the trans, got the drivers side motor mount off, got all the bolts out, then had to pound on the front of the pan to clear the K-Frame. Then Success!! Drilled out just over a 1/2" hole, which will just clear the motor mount and the powersteering bracket on the motor. (Left side of hole: PS Right: Motor Mount) Found a 3/4" cap, drilled hole through it, tack welded it and set oil pan back up to see if it will all work out. Now since the pan is out. Had to do something about the sump. Buddy of mine, had some sheet metal laying around, and a sheer, so perfect! Cut me three pieces, 3"x9", and I bent them to fit. One for the front, rear, and passenger side (pass not shown) I'm hoping this is going to help, I just laid them in place, will tack weld and try fitting to make sure it clears.

Author:	mopar225 [ Tue Jan 26, 2016 6:07 pm ]
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Well I got lots done in the last while. Oil Pan baffles are all welded in, bung is finished, and pan is repainted! I'm happy the way it all turned out, now just need to install. Next was setting up the oil lines and oil cooler, I got the cooler mounted and added in a couple Tee's off the oil pump for the idiot light and a oil pressure gauge. I had to put an offset from the pump as the tee would had hit the block, its not a straight shot out. So off the end I will run 1/4" steel line, bent at 180* and go straight to the front of the car. Oil cooler mounted behind the intercooler, just a mock up, need to tighten bolts and run the steel line through the rad support. I got some steel braided hose made up with -6an fittings to match the oil cooler. And the DEAL of the WEEK... I've been on the look for a 2bbl Holley carb to setup as a blow through. Happen to run across locally... 350cfm Demon, brand new never been used!!! $100 So I got reading again on http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html on what I need to change to make this a blow through. I guess I didn't really need alot, I picked up a notched float as well as some jet extensions. I removed the choke assembly. So good to go, other that tweaking when I'm ready to fire up, and play with Jets, PV... Next up, Fuel Pump. I drilled out the hole on the side to 1/4" as that was the size of tubing I had found. Bent it up, scuffed up the tubing as well as the side of the pump. Mixed up some JB Weld, and coated away. Few questions I'm wondering: 1.Do i need to get the horn milled down? or can I do it later if so? 2.Power Valve... Does it need to be Boost Referenced? Then if so whats the best way? Read lots on drilling holes to add boost signal into PV cavity, some guys took the spring off the PV and reversed it... Unclear. Or just pick my PV based on the vacuum im pulling and see how it goes...

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Another Turbo Build 67' Dart GT https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58909	Page 2 of 7

Author:	Joshie225 [ Tue Jan 26, 2016 6:42 pm ]
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Jet extensions are for the rear float bowl on a 4 bbl so the jets don't suck air at launch. You won't need them unless you mount the carburetor backwards. I'm concerned about the amount of weight you're hanging off that little pipe on the oil pump. After killing 2 Stewart Warner gauge senders with vibration I ran an AN-3 line to a manifold block on the inner fender. I don't understand what you're doing with that little oil cooler. Engine oil coolers are generally full flow. I used 1/2 NPT and AN-10 plumbing for my oil cooler. Also, watch for fuel starvation. Only low output turbo slants have been able to use a mechanical fuel pump.

Author:	mopar225 [ Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:12 pm ]
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Quote: Jet extensions are for the rear float bowl on a 4 bbl so the jets don't suck air at launch. You won't need them unless you mount the carburetor backwards. Wasn't aware, lol. This is all new to me, that makes sense. Quote: I'm concerned about the amount of weight you're hanging off that little pipe on the oil pump. After killing 2 Stewart Warner gauge senders with vibration I ran an AN-3 line to a manifold block on the inner fender. I was kinda thinking about that afterwards, a manifold block is a good idea. there seems to be lots of room for something like that on the inner finder as you said. Quote: I don't understand what you're doing with that little oil cooler. Engine oil coolers are generally full flow. I used 1/2 NPT and AN-10 plumbing for my oil cooler. Well, I got the cooler for nothing, and had to plumb an oil feed line to turbo. I figured why not add it in-line as extra cooling. Quote: Also, watch for fuel starvation. Only low output turbo slants have been able to use a mechanical fuel pump. I will have a fuel pressure gauge that will monitor this. As i'm starting off on low boost for tuning. Is it a volume issue or pressure issue with these boost ref pumps? Thanks for your input!

Author:	Joshie225 [ Wed Jan 27, 2016 7:27 am ]
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I don't know where the mechanical pumps fall down, but from here it doesn't seem to matter much. What you really need to monitor for fuel starvation is a differential pressure gauge so you know the difference between fuel pressure and air pressure at the carburetor inlet.

Author:	Ccrussell [ Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:21 am ]
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Very nice. Pictures are a great help also. Now i know what mine should look like. Think i am too am going to use a holset . Good luck!

Author:	mopar225 [ Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:50 am ]
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Quote: I don't know where the mechanical pumps fall down, but from here it doesn't seem to matter much. What you really need to monitor for fuel starvation is a differential pressure gauge so you know the difference between fuel pressure and air pressure at the carburetor inlet. This is what the plan was for a gauge: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-bla ... ssure.aspx I also have an Innovate LC-1 WB That will be placed beside each other for ease of monitoring.

Author:	mopar225 [ Wed Jan 27, 2016 11:59 am ]
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Quote: Very nice. Pictures are a great help also. Now i know what mine should look like. Think i am too am going to use a holset . Good luck! Thanks! Glad to hear, I know I love seeing pictures of progress. Holset much cheaper, and better built than the ebay turbos from what I understand. Guy I got mine from uses them on Supras, pushing 500+ hp.

Author:	mopar225 [ Sat Feb 06, 2016 5:19 pm ]
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So I was getting ready to install my 2bbl adaptor plate from Mr.Gasket and noticed a few things odd. The allen bolts they give you are useless for bolting the adaptor to the manifold. there is almost no shoulder on them to grip the adaptor. Where the bolts go through the plate, why is there a hollowed out space which limits the ability of the bolt to hold it in place comfortably? Hope the pics show what I'm trying to say. So I ended up finding some different allen bolts that had a much bigger shoulder, and sanded the edge down to make a tight fit. Got some more IC piping done, I had bought a 2.5" kit that had two of everything; 180, 90 45* and straight pipe. So the 180's were to wide and would hit the k-frame, so I got a guy to cut them 2" narrower and re welded them. Turned out not to bad. I cut the one end shorter that fits to the IC and now just need to make rolled edge to hold the clamp on. Plan on using the old' Washer/Vise Grip/2.5" exhaust end clamp trick! I got the intake removed and replaced with the 2bbl super six. What a pain to get the bottom nuts out and back on. That took the most time! When I went to place the adaptor plate on, I found out it would not clear the bolt/nut that holds the intake and exhaust together. So I got a buddy to mill out the spot it was hitting. Turned out awesome!! Just need to fit it on and get the carb mounted, get the turbo exhaust mounted again, do some more IC pipe fitting, add oil feed/return line to the turbo and mount the fuel pump! Excited to at least start the best!

Author:	Junior [ Sat Feb 06, 2016 5:44 pm ]
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probably dont wanna hear this but dont bother with that mechanical pump. i tried that when i started and it was only good for 5psi. went up to 8psi and it was iffy. neither of those boost levels are any fun. best to just get an electric pump and regulator and be done with it.

Author:	mopar225 [ Sat Feb 06, 2016 9:33 pm ]
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Quote: probably dont wanna hear this but dont bother with that mechanical pump. i tried that when i started and it was only good for 5psi. went up to 8psi and it was iffy. neither of those boost levels are any fun. best to just get an electric pump and regulator and be done with it. Yep, def didn't want to hear that lol! So you ran a block off plate, or just added the electric fuel pump inline and left the mech pump?

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Author:	Junior [ Sun Feb 07, 2016 10:27 pm ]
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the mechanical pump is still sitting in there but isnt hooked up anymore. havent gotten around to pulling it and putting a plate there yet. the electric pump is the only one doing something now.