You're running rich with a turbo.

Can you use nitrous as an afterburner to speed up and increase the volume of exhaust ?

That way you don't have to worry about the engine internals....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

.....thats what my buddy with a 2.5litre Subaru on 35" tires does.....the fogger nozzles just spool the turbo....he uses a 150hp shot.

Ivan is the King of the Bottomless Mud pits......his main rivals are Huge Block (632" all aluminum Chev) on 44" tires.

He makes enough power to be able to just drive across water.......FAR!

His big secret.... a set of custom Crower connecting rods,,,,the rest is hill billy.....and light weight

A set of 35" cut tires need at least 475 hp ...or you will drag the motor down.

Spool away

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Lou,

I got mine a few years back, from Hughes in Phoenix. My converter guy told me that the problem is that the large input shaft I run (later model 904) goes up into that snout and is almost as big as the early, small, converter hub, leaving not enough metal for a reliable hub... so, I;ll just have to open mine up... should have done it while the crank was out, loose. We all have 20/20 hindsight... LOL!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

That sounds like a good idea, but I don't know how it works or how to implement it. Can you explain, please? Sorry to be so ignorant, but, I'd really like to know how to do this!

Bill, in Conway. Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

No idea on how to do it......

Just throwing an idea out....


Sandy might have more info.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I did talk on the phone to Nick Stamm for about an hour, this afternoon, about how HE utilized nitrous to spool the turbo on his slant six, and after he explained what he had done, in detail, I had a much better understanding of how that system works. It's so aimple, even ~I~ could comprehend it!

I am thinking that I have three ways to "fix" my problem; get a different torque converter with more stall-speed, get a different turbocharger with a smaller exhaust housing and impeller, or install a small nitrous system to spool the turbo and leave the hard parts alone.

As my car sits, it is so very close to optimum, I think I'll try the nitrous-assisted spool first. If I can't get the off-the-line performance I want with the N20 system, then I'll try one of the other options; probably the smaller turbo, first.

Thanks to all who helped me with this enigma... I may have it on its way to being under control, with this nitrous spool deal... Talk's cheap; we'll see!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Well,

How is it done?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I'm not at all sure that what Nick did was the same thing mentioned on here by the previous poster, but Nick used a nitrous sytem that had two hoses that merged into one, with jets in the end to control flow and effect atomizatiion, delivering gasoline and N20 into the carburetor hat, with a pushbutton activator. He activated the spray with a pushbutton, spraying nitrous and gasoline into the carb hat for just one second. That spooled the turbo in about half a second, he said.

After one second, he released the button and the spray stopped completely, but by then, the turbo was spooled and doing this made a tremendous difference in his 60-foot times.

That is all there is to his system. I want one! I NEED one!!!!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

So, the nitrous stuff is all here, waiting to be installed. Now, I have to procure a relay to activate the spray for a period of time (probably a second or less,) that will end the spray when the boost gets to 10 pounds (not sure if it will be ten or fifteen pounds.)

Yesterday, I took my race car to the body shop to have the rear wheel wells modified into a "full cutout" (circle) so that I can get bigger tires in back without them hitting the fender. I have a new set of 28"-tall Mickey Thompson 9"-wide slicks that I want to try. My other slicks were only 26"-tall... the biggest that would fit the chassis.

By hook or by crook, I am going to get some decent 60-foot times out of this turkey!

Pray for me....

Bill, in central Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

good luck Bill

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Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.
64 valiant 4 door

Thanks, Nick. The turbo system is probably 60% installed. Should be operational pretty soon. I went with the adjustable boost shut-off valve from NEX. I think I'll set it on 10 pounds for a 50-hp shot. If that doesn't work, I'll adjust it up to 15 pounds and try that.

We'll see.

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

The drag strip I go to will be shut down for resurfacing and, guardrail replacement until approximately the first week of September.

That gives me time to experiment with this nitrous-spool system I have about 80% installed on my '64 Valiant and another stall-starting method I'd like to learn about.

Please tell me what you think about the results of running a two-step in conjunction with retarded timing at stall, to gain heat in the exhaust system which (hopefully) will spool the turbo significantly more that it spools, now... I have never tried anything like this, but, here is how I plan to do it on my car:

The torque converter that is in there right now, is a 3,000 rpm stall, max, at full throttle. The brakes will hold it on the line , because at 3,000 rpm, it is only making 3 pounds of boost, as things stand. The problem is, three pouns of boost doesn't generate enough torque at 3,000 rpm, to move the car off the line very quickly; my 60-foot times are in the 1.9-second range.... slow.

My distributor has two magnetic pickups; one is retarded (for starting lean-burn engines,) The retard amount is about ten degrees.

I want to run the engine on the non-retarded pickup during the trip down the strip, but use the other pickup to retard the timing during stall. I can set the wiring up with a double-pole/double throw switch so that if I flip the toggle the switch one way, and it will utilize the retarded pickup during stall and when the light goes green, I will flip the switch and energize the non-retarded pickup for the run down th drag strip. This stall will also include setting the MSD control box to activate the two-step, in an attempt to aid the stall process.

I have NO IDEA whether any of that will work or not.

It is totally experimental, but, I'd appreciate any comments/information from those of you who might have experience that would give you some insight on this procedure. I have NONE.... groping in the dark, here.

If it doesn't work, I guess I will use the nitrous oxide 50hp shot to spool the turbo 'cause I have to do something to help this sick puppy off the starting line; right now, it won't even spin the tires... pathetic.

Thanks for any information!!!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

keep everything how you have it already. set the 2 step, should take less than 10 minutes to get it ready. bring it up on stall and watch the boost go up.

Sounds like a reasonable idea, Bill. People use timing retard changes to help launch cars all the time, but usually with programmable timing devices.

Go for it!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Bill,

For the timing retard with the second pickup I would use a DPDT relay that is normally on your "run" pickup. Activating the relay would switch to the "retard/start" pickup. Relays are considerably faster than a human flipping a DPDT switch and you won't have to bring as many wires into the cockpit.

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Joshua