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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 5:35 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24804
Location: North America
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Had I done such a conversion and had depth of experience with it my advice would have been: "Use a Dura-Spark II (blue strain relief) module..... "
Dura-Spark is one of my favourite recipes for getting stranded with no spark! :lol:

(I have opinions, too...this kind of thing is why they make more than just one flavour of ice cream)

You do have a point about needing to protect against corrosion; most of the HEI modules (4-pin types especially) were designed to live inside the distributor, not out in the open.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 6:39 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:04 am
Posts: 214
Location: Upper So. CA
Car Model: '65 Valiant 170 T5
I've never been stranded by a Dura-Spark II module. I only ever use Motorcraft brand modules sourced from the junkyard. Preferably from the most deferred maintenance vehicle I can find as its the least likely to have been changed. I think all aftermarket modules these days, regardless of application, are somewhere between extremely suspect and outright junk. My experiences with the aftermarket Mopar modules sure reinforced that!

I figured that the rotor should trail the cap terminal a little at no vacuum advance since the advance can will "pull" it in closer to aligned. What I thought I was seeing was well outside of that.

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Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite


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