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Remflex manifold gasket life
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60939		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  shadango [ Mon Apr 10, 2017 5:16 am ]
Post subject: 
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We had checked the surfaces of the manifolds prior to installing and they seemed flush etc.
There is no seemed... either it is or it isn't. You need to put them against a straightedge and use feeler gauges or hold light up to it and look for any escaping.

Yes some gaskets may take out of whack manifolds better then others, but ultimately it's a crapshoot and delaying the inevitable.
We did that...and to us it seemed fine.....had it been perfect I guess I wouldnt be having the issue....but as I said, looked fine to us....
Author:  shadango [ Mon Apr 10, 2017 5:18 am ]
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All or most.

The casting is open water Jacket behind the Manifold / Port Face


Greg
Thanks Greg. Lovely..one more thing to worry about... :roll:

Hey do you know of any shops around our area that would take a walk-in "hey can you plane my manifolds for me real quick" request ? :?:

Broughers said they dont have equipment long enough to do it....
No not exactly.

You might try savani machine on versalies avenue in mckeesport.. across from unimart.

The machine /raceshop is around back on the bottom level

They know their stuff and its not a wasted trip as it should be close for you.

Greg
Thanks Greg!

OOOHHHHH the place next to the viking! I never noticed them there!
Thanks for the recommendation.

I am gonna try calling this week and see what they say.

I think our plan is:

Pull manifolds as a stack.....look for obvious signs of leakage at the hot box and if not, leave the stack together as is and then look for gaps with a straight edge again.....and maybe have it planed anyways.

If there appears to be a leak at the hot box, then I guess pull it apart, use a new remflex at the hot box, reassemble to the bare head surface to get alignment right, tighten the bolts for the stack, then get it planed, then reassemble with the remflex.
Author:  shadango [ Wed Apr 12, 2017 10:02 am ]
Post subject: 
So, I have been calling local shops and so far everyone says they are not set up for planing/surfacing as large an intake/exhaust assembly as the slant 6 has......I can call the shop that redid our engine as they did the original 1bbl exhaust and intake for us.....turns out we never used it and wasted that $60.... :(

So at this point, hoping that the new setup is pretty straight and that the green gasket just wasnt the right thing for our particular setup....
Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Fri Apr 14, 2017 8:57 am ]
Post subject:  water jacket leak around studs
Note of caution, I had coolant leaks around my manifold studs that were not obvious, i.e. the coolant was being sucked into the intake ports through/past the Remflex gasket. I had to remove the manifolds to see the leaks. The only signs I had were excess water in the exhaust (and slow coolant loss). In the picture (link) below you can see the coolant stains around the ports. Also note an exhaust port leak (carbon deposits, this was due to warpage of the manifold, not the gasket's fault). The remflex gasket was soaked with coolant but there was no coolant running down from it, onto the block, the gasket acted like a sponge and held the coolant sufficiently without drips, while more soaked in from the leaks around the studs.

See, for example: http://tinyurl.com/leaky-stud

FYI,

Brian
Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Fri Apr 14, 2017 9:07 am ]
Post subject:  sealing studs
To seal my studs properly, I drained sufficient coolant so the head's water jacket was empty (about a gallon or so), cleaned and dried the threads thoroughly (wire brush, some solvent, time...) then use Permatex 59214 thread sealant. Apply to stud threads and head threads, assemble and let it set up for 24 hours before installing the manifolds. Here is a pic of it drying...

http://tinyurl.com/59214-drying

no more leaks. I probably used more sealant than needed, note the extra as white rings around the base of some of the studs, but it's fine. I use this sealant on oil pressure sending unit, gas lines to carbs, etc. It eventually hardens, but you can snug parts even after months and it doesn't crack (playing with my fuel lines, still doesn't leak).

Brian
Author:  shadango [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 4:18 am ]
Post subject: 
I looked closely around the green gasket for any indication of coolant and saw nothing....i don't recall seeing any traces like in your pics (thanks by the way!) .the coolant level had seemed to be holding steady since the rebuild so I think (hope) we are ok there....

Ended up having the stack planed and used the remflex...sealed up good far as I can tell.

Car is running great now....so quiet under the hood!

Gonna check the torque on the nuts again after a few cycles though remflex claims that is not needed.....
Author:  bashmaki [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 3:09 pm ]
Post subject:  1bbl manifolds
Shadango,
If you've still got those 1 bbl manifolds lying around I'd take them off your hands for the right price. I just took mine off today and the exhaust one is cracked.
Author:  shadango [ Sun Apr 16, 2017 1:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1bbl manifolds
Quote:
Shadango,
If you've still got those 1 bbl manifolds lying around I'd take them off your hands for the right price. I just took mine off today and the exhaust one is cracked.
We still have them and the exhaust manifold is in good shape EXCEPT that the flapper valve spring is busted.....so we ended up buying a new Dorman piece....not sure if that matters to you or not...

PM me if still interested.

Thanks!
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