Their bearing catalog from my research seems a bit confusing.

Maybe I need to look again... or find a print version of the catalog
Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I had a set of King mains for a forged crank. Unfortunately they are in Iowa now.

I had the machine shop get them last year. It took 6 weeks for them to show up.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

They were on E bay not to long ago. Summit racing also had them.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

King Main bearings forged crank MB 407 AM
King Rod bearings forged crank CR 614 AM
That is from bearings I have on the shelf std size

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Some conventional ( and conservative) wisdom from one HD diesel engine manufacturer’s Engineering Group is:
Steel crank, use a tri-metal bearing. Steel cranks and tri-metal bearing have been around together since babbit bearings were phased out. Lots of history there. Clevite is a tri-metal bearing.
Cast crank, use a bi-metal bearing. Cast cranks and bi-metal bearings were developed during the same time frames. King Bearing produces bi-metal bearings.

This does not mean that tri-metal bearing won’t function on a cast crank or that bi-metal bearings won’t function on a steel crank. Clearances and cleanliness are more important. The thought in matching steel and tri-metal and cast and bi-metal is, if it’s working and has worked for a long time, leave it alone.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I used 440 Source steel main caps in several of my engines. Little work to the thrust cap and a line bore.
Line bore wasn't cheap. Had to remove a bunch of material which was steel.

Dave

Thanks, Dave! Maybe I will do this on my upcoming turbo/stroker shortblock build...

Anyone try to do the side-bolted main caps for the Slant? Just curious.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thank you! That's what I was trying to find.

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

Your welcome. You should have seen the look on the face of the King rep when I asked for Slant six forged crank engine bearing set, when I won the door prize at a King seminar at the PRI show.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

How would a side bolted cap work on a slant? It seems that the pan rails would nor be low enough for that.. maybe a 4 bolt splayed cap?

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yeah, probably would need quite a bit of customization work, but who knows. Doubt there's enough meat in the side webs to do another splayed bolt. Just thinkin...

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Girdle.

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Hyper_pak

Honest question, how many times have you seen someone beat the mains out of a Slant anyway? The block/crank seem pretty tough to start with.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Main straps would be a good upgrade and just as effective while being more economical, but these blocks and cranks are so robust compared to other inline engines like the Ford or Chevy counterparts, I doubt you would gain any benefits as long as the production cylinder head is the limiting factor...

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I am aware of a few broken blocks at high HP levels (boost/N2O) and/or RPMs. Plenty of high HP Slants have lived without these, of course. I have never worried about this, but am starting a build where I want a reliable 450-500 HP on boost with a stroker crank and thought this would add insurance. Just thinkin...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988