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Trying to diagnose issue with slant six. This motor has been modified with an Aussie speed intake manifold, Four barrel Edelbrock, 1905 carb
Yike. That's a
lot of intake manifold and a
very, very overbig carburetor for a street-driven car.
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performance distributors Tri-power, HEI distributor and inferno coil with a new set of live wires
I can't speak to the coil, but the other items on this list are not known for working well or dependably. You could have had a considerably more dependable, equally-or-more-performant ignition system for a fraction of this money.
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durta duels with a custom y pipe going into a single 2.5" exhaust.
Dutra Duals are a better pick than headers, for sure, but a 2.5" pipe is larger than optimal.
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We also installed a Tuff Stuff Performance Gear Reduction Starter. 6084A
Yumpin' yiminy! Who said you needed to spend $300+ on a starter? If you really needed a new starter, you could have had the same light weight, small size, and high performance for a small fraction of that price.
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Had my mechanic do the install for me, but he was never able to dial in the tune properly. He's doesn't specialize in these old cars. I am not experienced working on motors
Back up a few steps. How did you choose all these parts? Whoever is giving you parts-selection advice has eyes a whole lot bigger than the stomach of a car that gets used the way you describe, around town for fun. To wind up with a car that runs well and works reliably, the right way is to choose parts only after figuring out, in close detail, what you want the car to do (and not-do, and do differently than it presently does), then run that list by experts and get guidance, then filter that through your budget (for money, time, and effort), get more guidance, and
then buy parts.
The parts list for a high-budget drag racer is very different to the one for a fun street-driven car, for example. Just picking out the sexiest, biggest, flashiest, most expensive stuff and throwing it at a car is a well-guaranteed recipe for deep disappointment.
I don't mean to piss in your Wheaties or on your project, but over a whole lot of years I have seen so many cases of chronic heartbreak that start out just like this what you describe. The heartbreak does not end until the owner either gives up in despair and mothballs or offloads the car, or starts all over again from a more reasonable, thought-through starting point.
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I also tried replacing the voltage resistor with a new one, just in case it had gone bad. When I attached a multimeter to the resistor FLD side, it was bouncing around 6-8 V.
You are talking here about the voltage
regulator, which is part of the charging system. The voltage regulator bears consideration when you swap in an electronic ignition system, but not the way it sounds like you've done here.
You said you don't know much about working on cars, and that puts you in a position of spilling money, time, effort, and tears and getting nowhere. You can get good guidance on here, but there is no substitute for even just a minimum amount of first-person understanding, so as soon as you can, get the three books listed in
this thread and start reading.
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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.
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