Only if you have the lockup on. Usually if you're just driving around town there shouldn't be any need for it; it's really just needed on the highway.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

Are there any advantages or disadvantages going to a late model 904 lock up tranny for drag purposes? I'm assuming that lock up is not used in dragging and according to your responses, if I do not connect the 4th wire, which in my 1966 Dart there is none, the converter will not lock up. What problems do you see going this route?

Is there a good reason not to add a relay on the brake light circuit to open the lockup circuit on panic stops?

Other than I guess that as soon as you let off the brake, it kicks in again.

Maybe something a little more advanced than simply a relay.

It should turn it off and leave it off until you flip the switch again.

I'll work something out.

Yup, unless your saving gas...

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

Pressure switch in the governor pressure test port. governer pressure goes up with mph. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm This site has a switch. Ajustable would be better yet

Dragging up an old thread....what I want to know is 'how does the lockup solenoid circuit work'?

It's 'logical' to assume the solenoid is not energized until lockup is desired. But it's also possible it could be energized all the time and de-energized when lockup is desired.

On my valve body, the solenoid is 'open' when de-energized. That means it would allow fluid to exhaust back into the pan - a leak, in other words. It seems that having a full-time leak in the circuit might not be the intention, so that's why I'm asking...

https://cardiagn.com/atsg-chrysler-a999 ... al-online/ Start at page 7

All I want to do is disable it forever. I already have a clutch that locks up whenever I let the pedal out lol.

But you see my point...if the solenoid valve is closed to lock up the converter, then Chrysler lets fluid leak continuously back into the pan when unlocked. I suspect that is in fact what happens. But if the solenoid is normally closed, then it's opposite. Either way begs the question...is it better to block off the passage entirely so no leakage occurs, or is the leakage necessary for other reasons?

I'm pretty sure that 'it doesn't matter' is the answer but...well, I've ordered a factory manual so when it gets here I'll know. Maybe.

Well, in THAT case:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ing#329608

Disabling a lockup is easy if you have a 'first gen' valve body as that thread shows. My questions revolve around the later valve bodies that also have an electric solenoid.

The pages shown from the manual (which I am thankful to see) are not exactly clear, either. For example, they refer to a 'lockup solenoid' and also an 'unlock solenoid'. Which is it? Are there two solenoids? No.

According to the diagram, the solenoid, when energized, allows fluid to go from the 1-2 shift valve to the lockup valve. When not energized, it doesn't stop the flow of fluid - it merely dumps it into the pan. It seems to me it would be 'better' to not dump it into the pan...that's a fluid and pressure drop that might be better not suffered.

In Figure 141, it shows the solenoid in the 'unlocked' position, dumping fluid into the pan. But it also shows the same pressure being sent to the lockup valve. That can't be right yet there it is in a Chrysler-published manual.

In any case, it seems the solenoid port could be blocked altogether. That would defeat the lockup and not allow any fluid to be lost into the pan....just like a pre-electric lockup valve body.