Slant Six Forum :: Still Working on Locked Front Disks

I didn't go from drum to disk..I simply replaced what was on it. I suppose the previous owners could have but I have no way of knowing. The originals worked but everything leaked and the pads, shoes, rotors and drums were badly scored and the booster did not work. So, I just replaced everything. I do not believe it is the calipers sticking because when I remove the retaining bolts and clips, the pads are still locked tight on the rotor. It is definitely the piston not retracting. If I open the bleeder valve, only then can I wiggle it loose. If I compress it with a C-clamp, I get the right amount of space and the wheel turns nicely. The minute I depress and release the brakes, it is stuck so solid the wheel will not budge at all. I am suspecting still the mc or prop valve. Thanks everyone and keep the suggestions coming. I seem to never have the common problem. I always have the one in a million...now if I could only convert that to a lottery win....

Mike

Author:	mszauner [ Wed Mar 03, 2004 7:04 pm ]
Post subject:	Prop Valve Source
I am hesitant to get a prop valve from the bone yard but I have been unable to find a replacement. How do those adjustable ones work? Are they easy enough to install? Thanks. Mike

Author:	Craig [ Wed Mar 03, 2004 7:49 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Same as was on it
Quote: I didn't go from drum to disk..I simply replaced what was on it. I suppose the previous owners could have but I have no way of knowing. The originals worked but everything leaked and the pads, shoes, rotors and drums were badly scored and the booster did not work. So, I just replaced everything. I do not believe it is the calipers sticking because when I remove the retaining bolts and clips, the pads are still locked tight on the rotor. It is definitely the piston not retracting. If I open the bleeder valve, only then can I wiggle it loose. If I compress it with a C-clamp, I get the right amount of space and the wheel turns nicely. The minute I depress and release the brakes, it is stuck so solid the wheel will not budge at all. I am suspecting still the mc or prop valve. Thanks everyone and keep the suggestions coming. I seem to never have the common problem. I always have the one in a million...now if I could only convert that to a lottery win.... Mike Allright, two more things to check.... Did you replace the master cylinder? I did not read back to find out. If so, did you get the pushrod properly engaged in the MC piston so it is not depressing the piston when installed? The next thing to check.... is the brake light switch properly adjusted or is it holding down the brake pedal a little and causing you this mystery problem?

Author:	mszauner [ Thu Mar 04, 2004 3:00 pm ]
Post subject:	Yes
I replaced the mc and booster as a unit. I unhooked the front line today and fluid came out and the piston freed up. That would lead me to believe it is the mc as opposed to the prop valve. Prior to that, I disconnected the brake pedal at the booster and pulled back on the rod but that did not free up anything. I have a new mc coming tomorrow so I can see how that does. Thanks everyone and I will let you know how this progresses. Mike

Author:	70valiant [ Thu Mar 04, 2004 3:48 pm ]
Post subject:
I hope that fixes it for you I know I really hate being with out my slant to drive.

Author:	Pierre [ Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:42 pm ]
Post subject:
Just how much fluid came out of the MC when you disconnected the line? It takes quite a bit of pressure to lock the wheel, not just a drop or two.... Remember when bench bleeding a MC don't push the piston in more then 1/8-1/4" or else you'll be running the piston seals through a dry bore and that can ruin the seal.

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Still Working on Locked Front Disks https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8593	Page 2 of 2

Author:	mszauner [ Fri Mar 05, 2004 7:42 pm ]
Post subject:	And The Winner Is...may I Have The Envelope Please
I got the problem solved. I had decided it was an issue of pressure not relieving and suspected the mc. I had replaced the mc and booster as a unit previously. This time I did only the mc. HOWEVER, when I was swapping the mc, I noticed an adjustable rod that comes from the booster and into the mc. I noticed that when the mc was in place, the piston was not all the way out. So, I adjusted the rod inward until the mc piston would back off entirely when the brake pedal was released. Now it works perfectly. I will bleed the brakes in the morning. One more nagging electrical problem and it finally gets on the road. Thanks for all the input. Mike

Author:	'65 Dutch Dart [ Sun Mar 07, 2004 7:49 am ]
Post subject:
Good to hear you got the problem solved! I should have thought of that pushrod, but thats easy to say afterwards. When I changed to the KH 4 piston setup, I got my MC/booster without the pushrod, had to make one out of some thick leftover steel, but that was really easy btw.

Author:	mszauner [ Mon Mar 08, 2004 8:27 am ]
Post subject:	No Problemo
I would have never known there was an adjustable component in there had I not decided to replace just the mc this time.

Author:	junkcarwilly [ Fri Mar 12, 2004 9:16 pm ]
Post subject:
Do you have good pedal travel? If it is a missmatched master cly. there can be an travel problem. I had this problem and it was solved by adjusting the actuoting rod.

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