Hey, Craig, I'd sure be interested to see that TSB and a picture of the plate itself...any chance of a scan-in and some photos?

I'm not sure what recurve the distributor is. Is that when you change the springs or something? I have not done that. My rear is 3.23. I don't think the choke is the problem. I have an electric choke and it is opening fully.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Sixty4, please do not think I am talking down to you or putting you down with this response -- that is not my intent.

Modifications like 4bbl carburetors, different cams, valves, etc. are never, ever, ever as simple as "bolt it on and go". They always require a great deal of tweaking to make them work right, and the tweaking is frequently not limited to just the specific device swapped (carburetor, for instance). Doug's mention of the distributor advance curves is a perfect example -- you didn't touch the distributor, but your radically-different-than-stock carburetor renders the factory settings very inappropriate, and this manifests in the driveability difficulties you're having. Now here's the part where it may sound like I'm insulting you: If you have to ask "Is recurving where you change the springs or something?", you are probably not at all equipped to do the tweaking and work necessary to make the car run right with its current equipment. That isn't to suggest you should give up, just realize that you will have to make some choices. You can take the time and effort to learn about a WHOLE bunch of other stuff besides "It's a 500cfm 4-bbl carb", meanwhile your car won't work right. You can find and pay someone else to dial it all in for you. You can also just randomly poke and prod and change parts and modify stuff. That last option is very definitely not a wise choice. It will sure as heck make your car run a lot worse, and will cost you endless time and money.

My first strong suggestion would be to change back to a much more reasonable carburetor. The one you've got is really too big, even for just weekend use, especially for the type of usage you say you want. Don't want to go over 5,000 RPM? Then you don't need a 4bbl. Plain and simple. Did you swap on the 4bbl, or was it already on the car when you got it? A stock factory 2bbl would work much, much better in every way. Better driveability, better performance, better mileage, better running.

You seemed puzzled at my including reliability in the list of factors to decide on. Sure, it's tough to destroy a \6, but "does it stay in one piece" is only a rough measure of one kind of reliability. There's also "Does it start reasonably quickly, whether hot or cold, every time I ask?" There's also "Does it behave in traffic, or will it stall, emit plumes of black smoke, hesitate, overheat, backfire?".

Driveability means just that: How driveable is the car? Does it accelerate smoothly without hesitation or spitback? Does it start easily? Does it have quick enough acceleration? Does it load up with gas? Does it lean out and sputter? Does it stall going around left turns, or when you come to a stop? Does it idle smoothly and at an appropriately-low speed? Does it have enough low-end torque?

You keep saying low-end, not high-rev. OK, so that means: stock cam, and a 2bbl carb. It's really, really easy to get carried away with the credit card buying more-more-more-bigger-bigger-bigger. It seldom gets you what you want.

Your current gas mileage sucks, especially since you say you're not pleased with the current performance.

A 16-second car, with lots of low-end torque and 15+ mpg is very, very easy to achieve.

You don't do it with big valves, a bigger cam or a 4bbl carb.

From reading Dan's post, I believe he is on the conservative side with his setups. But he is right. For best, all around performance stick with a proven factory setup. This would be a Super Six, with a 2 1/4" exhaust pipe and the factory distributor set at 10* BTDC. This will be a good, decent performer.

But the 500cfm Edelbrock should work OK on your current setup. The primiary side of the carb is only slightly larger then a BBD. The secondaries will not start flowing until the air flow opens the flapper valve.

But, that carb is setup for a 350 Chev from the factory. Have you read the excellent tach guides on the Edelbrock web site on how to tune the carb? I also understand that Edelbrock has good phone support. Have you talked to them?

OK
The LAST thing I will do is get offended. If I thought I knew I wouldn't post questions. Thank you for saying that though.
I understand your point about the 4 bbl vs. 2bbl. I wish I had done this before I started. The car was bone stock when I got it.
If you think I'm crazy or think headed or not getting the point I understand BUT ...
Now that I have the 4bbl can I make it run better without going to a 2 bbl?
The car starts good, runs good, doesn't stall, idles well, no black smoke or backfire (although the 1&6 are rich as I said). The poor acceleration is the only thing I'm not happy with.
As for the Comp 252s cam, I think that even on a "super" six this is a good upgrade, at least for mpg, right?
I post and read on this site so I can learn, but maybe it's not enough. I did a head swap about 3 months ago that went fine. I would not have tried that if not for the info I got here.
Is there a 2bbl that would bolt on to my Offy intake? I thought the 4bbl was actually better 'cause the primaries were smaller than a 2bbl.
Anyway, I thank you all for your info/feedback and I will get it dialed in, trust me.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

I have used the tune instructions in the booklet that came with the carb, which I believe are the same as on the web site. I have e-mailed saying that I was using the carb for a Chrysler 225 and they wrote back saying "Black is rich, white is lean, and grey is good". I have not called, but I will try. Thank you for that info. I would not doubt that I have it out of tune.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

I would not retrograde back to a BBD. Any BBD would be at least 30 years old, with all the wear and tear implied, while that edlebrock just rolled off the assembly line.

I would check which rods and jets are currently being used on the primary side and using the Edelbrock charts go one step leaner. Try that for a while, read the plugs and repeat as necessary.

How do you have the carb orientated? Primaries toward the radiator, toward the engine or toward the fender.

I just got off of the phone with Edelbrock. I got the part # for the metering rods (4% leaner). I ordered them and will get them in on friday. I'l let y'all know how it goes. My carb has the primaries towards the rad. The holes won't let me mount it another way w/o a adapter.
I also changed the vacuum advance to the timed port. I had it on the full vacuum port. Doc made me think of it when he asked about recurving the distributor. I will re-check the mixture screws.
Thanks again!

_________________
"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Sure, be glad to, scanner is not hooked up at this time. There are no pictures of anything in the service bulletin, just a list of the component parts.
There was a picture of that kit on Ebay but I never saved the picture.