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custom connecting rods may soon be avaible ............
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26519		 Page 11 of 12
Author:  GTS225 [ Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:09 pm ]
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Ditto...... :D :wink:

Roger
Author:  mopardemon71 [ Fri Apr 25, 2008 6:33 pm ]
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Yep still on. Ill hit up tom on monday with some Q&A and see were the rods are at and my whole piston deal is. The rods sould be read to move if I remember my last conversation with him but he is wanting to put the final touches in the pistons for those who wanted them. So maybe next week or two. He should check in here this weekend thougth and correct me if I'm wrong.
Author:  mopardemon71 [ Thu May 01, 2008 3:38 pm ]
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I called Tom the other day and I guess he's off untill Tuesday next week so I'll update then. But I will be ordering my rods when I speak to him next time. I can wait a week or two for my pistons.
Author:  k1tom [ Tue May 06, 2008 4:59 pm ]
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Ok everyone. We now have all of the data we need to make rods and pistons and we are ready to pull the trigger but reading through the posts, it seems most everyone has their own idea as to the direction they want to go. The only way that I know of to settle this is to post this message and see who is actually serious. I know everyone wants to know price but quite honestly, it is up to all of you. Price is a factor of volume so let's see what you want. Please either reply to this post with what length rod and what piston you will be running. Those of you who want to use a Toyota, VW, Harley or some sort of piston you borrow from the lawn mower have to be aware that each of these have a different size rod pin which turns the rod into a custom piece and custom rods come with a custom price. If you want a 7.000" (or 7.100") with a stock size pin and we can get a few orders, we will do everything that we can to keep the price easy on the wallet. Those who want to to buy a set of rods and a set of Wiseco pistons will get a little better price due to the kit packaging. A couple of other things to keep in mind. These rods and pistons are a low volume piece that we will not stock many of so a deposit will be required before we start production on your parts. Also, this is an introductory offer and the price may go up on the next batch.

Thank you,

Tom
Author:  Shaker223 [ Tue May 06, 2008 6:56 pm ]
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Rod only. I prefer 6.700" but 7.000" will work. Stock pin diameter. Have deposit ready. I will be using a custom piston which is really a forged copy of a stocker for a CR around 8:1. PM me and we can work out deposit details.

Tom
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Tue May 06, 2008 9:27 pm ]
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I would be interested in a 7 or 7.1 rod plus pistons. So what are we talking about here $$$.




Jess
Author:  mopardemon71 [ Tue May 06, 2008 9:33 pm ]
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Everyone knows my .02 cents 7.00 rods and pistons. Oh look a dead hosre beating web site!!! :lol:
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Wed May 07, 2008 4:44 am ]
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Since, all the pistons, I have on the shelf, have the stock slant compression distance, I guess I would need to consider a rod/piston combo. I would need to know pricing. I have a feeling that is not going to be in my budget, in the near future. If you wind up with a stock 225 rod length, that might be in the budget, near term.
Author:  mopardemon71 [ Fri May 09, 2008 10:52 am ]
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Dead tread???? :?
Author:  CARS [ Fri May 09, 2008 11:21 am ]
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Quote:
Dead tread???? :?
Don't think it's dead but Brian's thread about the pistons has confused things for at least me.

i'm in for later this summer but I need to know what is happening with the pistons too. Without a set of pistons I don't need the rods and viceversa.
Author:  Rob Simmons [ Mon May 12, 2008 2:43 am ]
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Still interested... It seems like the there is still some final decision making going on between this and the "piston thread".

I appreciate what Tom and Brian are doing to help our small group. Once the final decisions are made on rod length, piston choices, etc I'm still in.

I'm following Doc's lead on this one. Our next engine build will be a serious drag only deal with good parts. If Doc says this is a good choice as compared to reconditioned 198 rods, then that's what I'll do.

The three sets of 198 rods I have on the shelf will wait for another day... (just kidding! :lol: )
Author:  JGTurbo [ Mon May 12, 2008 10:52 am ]
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Using an aftermarket piston will also give you a lighter piston. Not only will the lighter piston make the engine rev quicker, it will also gain power. The piston stops twice every stroke. It takes power to stop it and it takes power to start it. Besides, the stock pistons were designed to go back and forth to the grocery store not run at higher compression ratios and RPM.

I am not really a fan of super light pistons if they sacrifice long term durability. It seems to me that the only thing that lightening a piston does is make the engine rev quicker and takes some stress off the connecting rod. Don't get me wrong, these are both positive aspects, but I don't think it gets you any more power. When the crank accelerates a piston, it takes work to do it and a lighter piston is easier to accelerate. But the crankshaft gets that work right back when the piston slows down and "pulls" (or pushes depending on TDC or BDC) on the crank. It takes the same amount of power to speed a piston up as it does to slow it down. So we've got a (+x)+(-x) and this equals zero. That's the way I've always understood it.
Author:  JGTurbo [ Mon May 12, 2008 10:54 am ]
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But regardless of all the little details... Let's do this thing!
Author:  mopardemon71 [ Tue May 13, 2008 9:01 am ]
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Lighter parts also free-up horsepower. Like an underdrive pulley for a new car. It doesnt give you HP but it free's up HP from your engine. Like say a dodge neon may get 5-10HP over the power band but still have the same HP at peak rpm.
Author:  k1tom [ Tue May 13, 2008 11:45 am ]
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Quote:
Quote:
Using an aftermarket piston will also give you a lighter piston. Not only will the lighter piston make the engine rev quicker, it will also gain power. The piston stops twice every stroke. It takes power to stop it and it takes power to start it. Besides, the stock pistons were designed to go back and forth to the grocery store not run at higher compression ratios and RPM.

I am not really a fan of super light pistons if they sacrifice long term durability. It seems to me that the only thing that lightening a piston does is make the engine rev quicker and takes some stress off the connecting rod. Don't get me wrong, these are both positive aspects, but I don't think it gets you any more power. When the crank accelerates a piston, it takes work to do it and a lighter piston is easier to accelerate. But the crankshaft gets that work right back when the piston slows down and "pulls" (or pushes depending on TDC or BDC) on the crank. It takes the same amount of power to speed a piston up as it does to slow it down. So we've got a (+x)+(-x) and this equals zero. That's the way I've always understood it.
If the pushing and pulling actually zeroed itself out, it would be great but it does not work that way. At TDC on the exhaust stroke, the piston wants to go through the cylinder head and the crank and rod pulls it back down. With a 4.00" stroke, 430 gram piston, 130 gram pin and 8,000 RPM, you could have over 9,000 pounds of pull on the rod. This does not equal out with what goes on at BDC. It takes power to stop the piston and power to start it. Lighter weight will result in higher power that you can actually find on the dyno.
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