Hey Doc,
Alright. Have never adjusted Valves while the Engine was running. Will give it a try. Is there anything for which one should "watch out"?

Am awaiting the emminent arrival of the S&W 385CF Sending Unit. The UPS Truck usually gets here between 3:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.

Anyway, thanks for the response.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Thursday Evening Update:

Have the S&W 385CF Sending Unit all assembled. It was harder than it looked.

The 3/32" Steel Rod from which the Sender Unit's Shepherd's Crook is made is much harder than it needs to be, making bending it properly quite difficult.

Bending it square with the Float has to be done precisely because the hardness of the material prevents it from being "twisted" to adjust the squareness of the bend in relation to the Float.

Also, the bent end has to be bent at slightly MORE than 90 degree angle for it to fit into the Pivot Hole in the body of the Unit properly.

Also, the hardness of the Steel Rod prevents it from making a "crisp" bend.

After making the bend, a cutting wheel in the RotoTool was used to "square" out the radius of the bend. Fortunately there is no stress on the bend and the weakening of the Rod due to cutting on it is of no consequence.

Getting the properly bent Rod into the Nylon Clip was the hardest part of the assembly.

One little mis-step and the Unit, which is pretty fragile, could be ruined.

Used a Needle Nose Pliers to press the bent end of the Rod into the Pivot hole and then into the Nylon Clip.

Once it is in though, it isn't coming out.

Then came actuating the Shepherd's Crook thorough its range of motion.

There was, at just before the "Empty" position, a "roughness" which at first appeared to be on the "rheostat-like" part which provides the 240 to 33 Ohm variable resistance. But upon closer inspection it turned out that the roughness was being caused by a bit of the Nylon from which the body is cast not having been completely smoothed out.

A little work with a Number 11 Exacto Blade smoothed out this slight flaw and the Unit now works smoothly through its full range of motion.

Worked out the length of the Shepherd's Crook so that when the Gauge reads "Empty", there is still one inch of Gasoline in the Tank. That amount is 288 cubic inches of Gasoline before it goes "bone-dry".

Anyway, the Unit is all set to be hooked up for a test. Will be doing THAT tomorrow.

Will hook the "+" Terminal of a 12 Volt Source TO the "IN" Terminal of an "On/Off" Switch.

Will hook the "OUT" Terminal of the "On/Off" Switch TO the "I" Terminal on the Gauge.

Will hook the Stud Terminal of the Sender TO the "S" Terminal on the Gauge.

Will hook one of the "GND" Terminals on the Gauge TO the Flange on the Sender Unit.

Will hook the other "GND" Terminal on the Gauge to the "-" Terminal of the 12 Volt Source.

With this set-up, the Gauge should read "Empty" when the Switch is OFF, no matter in what position is the Sender Unit's arm.

When the Switch is turned ON with the Sender Unit's Arm in the lower-most position, the Gauge should read "Empty".

When the Sender Unit's Arm is raised, the Gauge's Indicator Needle should rise with it.

When the Sender Unit's Arm is at its upper-most position, the Gauge should read "Full".

If this all works as described, then the Sender Unit is ready to be installed in Lorrie's Gas Tank, and the Tank installed in Lorrie.

Will let you know how it all goes.

Hope you all have a GREAT night. It's been a GOOD day.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hope all has went well with the gauge/testing phase, and all that is being needed is to reinstall. My only thought about the work and progress being done, is no where have you mentioned any kind of fuel filter, and even though everything seems all spic n span clean I would run @ LEAST 1 fuel filter. Preferably 2, 1 before pump and 1 after. And use the big metal canister universal types of filters.... M2C.

_________________
MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

Hey Mr. OF,
The test went on as scheduled.

Tested the NEW S&W 385CF Sending Unit for its Ohm Range. It ranged from 27 to 156 Ohms.

S&W Gauges see between 33 and 140, so the 385CF comfortably exceeds the necessary Ohm range.

Got everything hooked up as delineated in last evening's description of the test.

Alas, the Gauge did NOT respond to the Sender.

When the Gauge was removed yesterday, the "S" (for Sender) Terminal did NOT have a Fiber Washer between the mounting Nut and the Case.

The NUT that was on the "S" Terminal was in contact with the Gauge Case which is labeled "GND" (for Ground).

The "I" (for Ignition) Terminal DID have a Fiber Washer under the Nut that was on the "I" Terminal. Had it not been there, there would have been a DIRECT SHORT between the "I" Terminal and the "S" Terminal.

That the "S" Terminal didn't have a Fiber Washer between the Nut and the Case didn't look right to me, so a Fiber Washer was put between the Case and the Nut.

Danny mentioned that the "S" Terminal might not NEED a Fiber Washer between the Nut and the Case, BUT without that Fiber Washer, the Sender Wire from the Stud on the top of the 385CF Unit would be Grounded AT ALL TIMES.

Could THIS be the way it is supposed to be?

"I don't know. I just don't know." (Phil Silvers as "Sgt. Bilko")

Perhaps the test should be run again with the Fiber Washer removed from the "S" Terminal on the Gauge.

Nonetheless, the situation is that Lorrie STILL doesn't have a functioning Fuel Gauge.
There IS a Fuel Filter between the Fuel Pump and the Bendix Stromberg Carburetor. It is a "see through" Plastic Filter.
Good idea. Will have to look at the budget to see if that can be afforded. If not immediately, it would be easy to do in the near future.

So the present question is: Should there or should there not be a Fiber Washer between the "S" Terminal and the Grounded Case on the S&W Fuel Gauge?

Anyone have the answer to THAT question?

A NEW S&W 82413, 2-5/8" diameter, Fuel Gauge costs just over $50.00 from SummitRacing. It could be here in two days for the nominal fee of another $15.00

This problem is not going to impede the progress, as the 385CF Sending Unit can be installed in Lorre's Gas Tank and the Tank installed.

What IS going to impede progress is that it is supposed to rain here till Monday! And the driveway under Lorrie has about an inch of water standing on it because a thunderstorm came through last night and dumped 3" of rain in two hours.

Am thinking that maybe the test should be run again without the Fiber Washer, but don't know if Grounding the Wire from the 385CF's Sending Terminal might damage it in some way.

Any comments about this?

Need to go to the Grocery Store, and the Hardware Store, but don't want to take Ms. American out from under her Tarp if there's a chance she would get wet. Will have to check the weather guessers prognostication to see what the chances are of getting out and about.

Anyway, will keep you all updated on any progress here.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Low and behold, JC. I dont know if it would damage the sender or not, BUT I did find a DEATAILED picture of the back of said gauge.Shows the details of fiber washers are as you suspected altho I think you had stated that YOUR gauge only has 4 studs, where this is showing 5.

This particular Sitehas the gauge listed for $41.50 Commercial Pricing, whatever THAT means...

_________________
MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

Hey All,
Friday Afternoon Update:

Called the Speedway Motors Technical Hotline and asked the Tech about the Fiber Washer that was put under the Nut on the "S" Terminal of the S&W 82413 Fuel Gauge. Asked that if it were removed so that the Gauge was as it was found when removed from the dash, and then did the test with the NEW 385CF Sender, could it hurt the Sender? He said that it wouldn't.

So did another test of the S&W 82413 Fuel Gauge with the Fiber Washer on the "S" Terminal removed. Hooked the Gauge to the Sender and 12 Volt Source. There still was no response.

The Gauge is toast.

As a result, have just ordered a NEW S&W 32413 Deluxe Series, 2-5/8" Fuel Gauge from SummitRacing. $60.84 including shipping. It is scheduled to arrive here on May 15, or 16, 2012. That's next Tuesday or Wednesday.

SummitRacing will be E-Mailing the UPS Tracking Number.

Anyway, this is where everything stands at the present.

Will let you all know when and if anything else happens

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Mr. OF,
It wouldn't, according to the SpeedwayMotors Tech. SpeedwayMotors is from where the 385CF Sender Unit was purchased.
Actually, that is NOT the Gauge that is here.
Actually, the S&W 82413 Deluxe Series, 2-5/8" Fuel Gauge has FOUR Studs on the back of it, but two of them are for the Mounting Bridge. Since they are also connected to the metal case of the Gauge which is labeled GND, they are also Ground Terminals.
The Gauge you posted is not an 82413, and has not a 2-5/8" diameter. It is probably a 2-1/6" diameter, as that is what Stewart Warner has pretty much gone to.

As previously noted, have already ordered an 82413 Gauge from SummitRacing. It should be here next Tuesday or Wednesday.

The GOOD news is that this NEW Gauge not getting here till the 15th or 16th will not in any way hinder the progress. There is still much to do and much that can be done without a functioning Fuel Gauge.

Can install the NEW Sender in Lorrie's Gas Tank and install the Gas Tank back into Lorrie. Can Adjust the Valves, and can even get the Engine up and running.

Fortunately the Fuel Gauge is right at the Port Side of the Dash Panel and can be installed without removing the Dash. That means that the Dash Panel can be reinstalled before the Gauge arrives and then installed and hooked up when it gets here.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time and making the effort to do the research on the Fiber Washer question. It is VERY much appreciated. We'll get Lorrie up and going yet!

Hope you are well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

I did notice something interesting tho, after going back and forth looking @ the gauges. All the ones that are on the one site i posted ARE indeed 2 1/16" dia. but thats not what struck me as odd, they all have the 5 post set up opposed to your 4. 2 for the bracket and 3 for wires... maybe a low fuel light snesor? I dunno.. the summit page doesnt show the back of the gauge so no guesses as to how many posts it will have... AND the other thing that has me going 'hmmmm" is the fact that the picture of the gauge you are buying, the needle is @ rest @ the FULL mark... Havent looked @ every gauge they have but the majority of them the pics shows them showing EMPTY... so as i said hmmmmm... lol I hope YOU are having a good day other than the set back with the defective gauge......

P.S. BTW it is no problem, as I enjoy small challenges, it keeps my mind occupied from my other maladies...

_________________
MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

Hey Mr. OF,
The fact that the 82413 Fuel Gauge has but two ACTIVE Posts is an indication that a third post MUST be for something other than just the Needle. Your surmising that it might be for a Low Fuel Light is the most likely choice since most modern cars have them now.
Well, the 82413 Gauge IS considered a "vintage" part. So doubt that it will have another ACTIVE Post.
Noticed THAT too.
Will take note of the Gauge that is supposed to be here on Tuesday or Wednesday. AND will also want to note if the "S" Terminal has a Fiber Washer between the Case and the Nut. Am betting that it has one.
Was all set to find that the Gauge was toast, so it wasn't all that much of a setback. Just another speed bump on the road of life.
Mr. OF, it seems that "other maladies are just one of the features of growing old. Much of what is being done here is, as you say, keeping one's mind occupied" to keep from dwelling on all the things that not only do go wrong, but COULD go wrong. I live here alone, and haven't seen another person in person for three days now. Without SOMETHING to do, the days would REALLY be a drag. Fortunately, Lorrie and Ms. American are GREAT company.

Anyway, am hearing the sound of distant thunder. Should probably get off line and off the grid to keep from getting voltage spikes from the lightning hitting the electric lines.

Thanks for the comment. You take excellent care, you hear?

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Saturday Afternoon Update:

The thought occurred to me that there was one more test that could be run on the 82413 Fuel Gauge, and that is the Grounding of the Sending Unit's Central Stud Unit to see if the Fuel Gauge will PEG past FULL.

So the test of the 82413 Fuel Gauge was re-set-up.

The Switch was turned ON, and the Sender's Arm was moved through its full range of motion. There was no response from the Fuel Gauge.

Removed the Wire from the Center Stud of the Sending Unit and touched it to the Sender Unit's Flange.

There was a VERY slight, little spark.

Then ALL OF A SUDDEN, the Gauge's Needle JUMPED to PEG past FULL.

This startled me, to say the least.

Turned the Switch off and reattached the Wire to the Center Stud of the Sending Unit.

Moved the Arm of the Sending Unit through its full range of motion and the Fuel Gauge responded PERFECTLY!

BUT, there is something strange going on in the Fuel Gauge: When the Switch is turned OFF, the Fuel Gauge Needle starts moving slowly toward the FULL end of the Gauge instead of going to EMPTY.

Don't know WHY the Fuel Gauge didn't work properly BEFORE the Sending Unit's Wire was grounded to the Sending Unit's Flange, but NOW, the Gauge IS working PERFECTLY!

It could be that there is a loose connection inside the Fuel Gauge.

So presently, the fact of the matter is: Lorrie NOW has two Fuel Gauges. One that DIDN'T work, then all of a sudden DOES work, and a NEW Fuel Gauge on the way.

This all seems VERY strange!

Anyway, that's it!

Can proceed with the installation of the OLD Gauge, and the Gas Tank as soon as the inclement weather is past and the driveway dries so that work under Lorrie can be done without getting soaked.

Will keep you all updated on any progress.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Saturday Evening Update:

Installed the OLD Stewart Warner 82413 Deluxe Series, 2-5/8", Fuel Gauge in Lorrie's Dash Panel. Hooked it up complete with Light.

As a test, hooked up the Stewart Warner 385CF Sending Unit to it.

Turned the Run Switch ON, and moved the Sender's Arm through its full range of motion.

The Gauge RESPONDED! Not perfectly, because when the Sender's Arm is at its extreme lowest point, the Fuel Gauge's Needle indicates that there is about a 1/16th of tank of gas still in the Tank.

But it all works. Even the Light.

The weather has cleared up and tomorrow should be a GORGEOUS day.

Today has gone quite well.

Hope you have a GREAT Sunday.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Sunday Evening Update:

Lorrie's Gas Tank is in place and the Strap Nuts are snug on the Strap Bolts.

Had to get my neighbor Robert to come put the Nuts on the Bolts while I held the Gast Tank in place.

Where the Gas Tank meets the underside of the Body, there are a couple of places that fit into a couple of Channels on the Gas Tank. Those Channels were insulated with 3M Black Strip Caulk, Part Number 051135-08578. That will forever keep the Gas Tank from rattling against the underside of the Body.

Am going to hook up the Fuel Hose from the Fitting on the Pick-Up Tube to the Metal Fuel Line that goes to the Fuel Pump.

Am going to hook up the 90 Degree Elbow Pipe to the Gas Tank Inlet Pipe, and then from the Elbow Pipe up to the Filler Pipe on which fits the Gas Cap.

Will hook up the Sender Unit to the Wire going to the Fuel Gauge.

Will hook up the Wire that is connected to the Sender Unit's Flang to the Ground Cable from the Battery where it connects to the Transmission Bell Housing. That will make a SURE Ground Connection.

It has gotten too hot to work outside anymore today. Besides, the mosquitoes are out in force.

Will keep you all updated as work progresses.

It has been a GOOD day.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Monday Morning Update:

Got the Straps that hold Lorrie's Gas Tank straightened to where they are square with the ends of the Tank.

Got the Nuts tightened and double Nutted so that the Tank can't vibrate loose.

Got the Fuel Sender Wire connected to the NEW 385CV Sending Unit.

Got the indentation in the Port side of the Body where the Gas Filler Pipe comes out cleaned, sanded, masked and given two coats of NAPA "Plasticoat" which is a rubberized rattle-can paint.

There is a rubber Grommet that the Filler Pipe goes through, and it looks brand new again.

Got the 2.25" i.d. Hose connected to the 2.25" o.d. 90 degree Elbow that connects to the Fuel Tank Input Pipe.

Am having to wait four hours till the Plasticoat cures before being able to put the Filler Pipe in place with the Gas Cap on it, to be able to measure how long the 2.25" i.d. Hose has to be to fit between the Filler Pipe and the upper end of the 2.25" o.d. Elbow.

Once that measurement is made, the Hose can be cut to length and installed with Radiator Clamps.

Am going to have to find my coffee can full of Radiator Clamps in order to get some that will connect the 3/8" Fuel Line from the Tank Vent to the Filler Pipe Vent.

Then will hook up the Hose from the Gas Tank to the Fuel Line going to the Fuel Pump and the Gas Tank installation will be finished.

Am hoping that the Tank was cleaned out well enough to NEVER again present any problems.

All in all, the installation is going well, and is starting to look really technical and clean, though one has to get UNDER Lorrie to see it..

The weather here is just GORGEOUS. Mid 70s, not a cloud in the sky. BUT it is supposed to rain tomorrow.

Am just taking a bit of a break. Am about ready for some Lunch.

Will keep you all updated on any progress.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Monday Afternoon Update:

Lorrie's Gas Tank is COMPLETELY installed. Everything is hooked up.

The S&W 82143 Gas Gauge sits at the "1/2" mark on the Gauge when the Run Switch is OFF.

When the Run Switch is turned ON, the Needle goes to about 1/32" from being right on the "E" because the Tank is presently completely empty.

When the Run Switch is turned OFF, the Needle again goes to the "1/2" mark.

Don't know if it's supposed to do that, but THAT'S what it does.

Have been down, under, back out, and up so many times today that am just BEAT.

Am going to clean up the Tools and Materials and call it a day.

Tomorrow will be Valve Adjustment, Spark Plug, Distributor, and Carburetor installation day, if it doesn't rain.

Anyway, the whole Gas Tank Caper went quite well. Glad it's done though. Hopefully it will have done what it was supposed to do.

BTW, have done some research on Lorrie's Gas Tank:

It is 12.5" Wide, 12.5" Deep, and 24" long. That turns out to be a 3,750 Cubic Inch Volume.

A Gallon is 231 Cubic Inches, so 3,750 Cubic Inches of Gasoline is 16.23 Gallons.

Gasoline weighs 6.073 Pounds per Gallon, so 16.23 Gallons of Gasoline weighs 98.56 Pounds.

Lorrie gets about 15 Miles Per Gallon, so Lorrie's range with 16.23 Gallons of Gas is 243.45 Miles.

Gasoline is $3.77 a Gallon here, so to fill Lorrie's Gas Tank would cost $61.19.

Whaddaya think?

Anyway, am going to go take a shower, and get all the dirt out of my hair.

Being under Lorrie for a good part of the day has left me in need of getting cleaned up and maybe taking a nap.

Hope you all have had as GOOD a day as Lorrie and me.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Tuesday Afternoon Update:

Went out to do a cold Valve adjustment in preparation to start Lorrie's Mighty 225 Slant Six Engine.

Turned the Engine over with the Starter and promptly bent the Number Four Intake Valve Pushrod!

The Valve was stuck again after having sat since it was last turned over which was back before the Gas Tank Cleaning Caper was done.

Here's what is being done:

Have removed the Rocker Arm Assembly.

Have removed the Pushrods making sure that they didn't pull the Solid Lifters out of their Bores.

Have taken the Valve Spring Assembly off of Number Four Intake Valve. It is the ONLY one sticking.

Removed the Valve Stem Seal exposing the Valve Stem where it comes out of the Valve Guide. There is not much space between the Stem and the Guide, but THAT's where the OLD Gasoline Residue is.

After removing the Valve Stem Seal, have reinstalled the Valve Spring Assembly, and have freed up the Valve by soaking it with AeroKoril, Acetone, and Tetrachloroethylene, and hitting the Valve Stem Tip with a Hammer, so that the Valve feels "springy", which means that it is not glued stuck.

Still, when it sits for a while, the Valve loses its "springiness" when hit with the Hammer, which means that the OLD Gasoline Residue is once again solidifying, glueing the Valve stuck.

The soaking continued till the sticking was at a minimum.

Then the Rocker Arm Shaft was reinstalled, as was the Pushrod on ONLY the Number Four Intake Valve. That way when the Engine turns, ONLY the Number Four Intake Valve is actuated.

Then with the Valve Stem Seal still removed, began spritzing the Valve Stem/Valve Guide interstice with AeroKroil, while turning the Engine with the Starter.

Then spritzed the Valve Stem/Valve Guide interstice with Acetone while turning the Engine with the Starter.

Then spritzed the Valve Stem/Valve Guide interstice with Tetrachloroethylene while turning the Engine with the Starter.

At first, the Rocker Arm would push the Valve DOWN, but the Valve wouldn't follow the Rocker Arm back UP. It would lag behind because of the OLD Gasoline Residue still between the Valve Stem and the Valve Guide.

Before the Valve could be pushed closed by the Valve Spring, the Rocker Arm would push it back down.

But pretty soon, the Valve was beginning to not lag behind the Rocker Arm so much.

Then it was time to let the Starter cool off a bit.

As soon as the Starter was cooled off, the routine of spraying the Valve Stem and turning the Starter was done again and again.

Each time, the Valve Stem would lag behind the Rocker Arm but would free up a bit more and a bit faster.

Then the last time that the routine of spraying the Valve Stem while turning the Starter was done, the Valve was no longer lagging behind.

The conclusion drawn from this is that the OLD Gasoline Residue is slowly being cleaned out of the interstice between the Valve Stem and the Valve Guide.

Am going to continue doing this routine till the Number Four Intake Valve is completely freed up.

Then will let it sit over-night.

Will try the same thing in the morning.

If it doesn't bend a Pushrod tomorrow morning, am going to call it alright.

Then will have to do the Magic Rope Trick to remove the Valve Spring Assembly in order to reinstall the Valve Stem Seal, and don't want the freed up Valve to drop into the Cylinder.

Once the Valve Stem Seal is back in place and the Valve Spring Assembly reinstalled, will install the rest of the Pushrods and do the cold Valve adjustment.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor