doug the gasket that is in the photo what brand is it,it looks like a MCcord with a graphite coating?

It is a McCord gasket but is is one of the special copper faced aluminum block head gaskets.
I did not get a good shot of the other side of the gasket but her is a "file photo" of the other side... This poor gasket is a result of a stupid ebay seller's poor packaging and UPS.
DD

WOW, what a total waste. I dont know if the Ebay'er, or the UPS driver should be smacked the hardest.


It looks like that gasket could be dulicated with a little effort. Have you seen the new MLS Phuzion Rings that just came out. They are a Gas Filled Flexable Ring made to take the place of the compression/fire ring. They even are loose and are just layed down in the gasket when you put them on. They cut the bore whole out in the MLS gasket to leave room for these rings that just lay on the block. No grooves or cutting of the block and head needed. I guess a MLS gasket with the bore cutout for these rings would tend to hold them in place a little bit. But if care was takin I dont see why they would not work with any gasket as long as it was matched to the thickness of the PHozion rings needs. You could take a regulor gasket, cut the fire rings out, put a copper shim backing on it like the one you pictured, and use the Phuzion rings.

Well, knowing you, there is a extra correct gasket laying there already and you dont need to worry with it. I plan on using these Phozion rings with double steel shims for a high boost Turbo /6 that will be getting built soon. The rings may not help or work for you at all I dont really know. But it might be worth looking into them if getting gaskets for that setup is become a problem. They do offer the rings in assorted bore sizes, and they are quite soft so working with the aluminum setup should not be a problem.


http://www.cometic.com/phuzion.aspx


Jess

Those "Phuzion" rings look pretty cool. As for Cometic, see here and here. Nothing's moved forward on this...perhaps if they were to get phone calls and enquiries from more than just one individual.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Wow! Great tech info! Question about the oiler you made for the timing chain--do you have some reason to believe that the stock oiling setup for it would be insufficient for your purposes, or is it just something for a little extra oiling just to be absolutely sure it gets plenty of oil?

Thanks,

Nathan

I do not think the SL6 timing chain and gears get enough oil.
Always ask yourself: "how do these parts get lubricated"?
In the case of the SL6, it is the oil slinger that is suppost to somehow grab some crankshaft oil and throw it up onto the chain and gears.
I prefer to take the direct approach and spray the timing gear and chain assembly with filtered and pressurized oil.
DD

I make sure the front main bearing has a good champher on the edge of the shell. This is the way the factory lubed the chain on the early engines. Aftermarket bearings do not have this champher.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
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64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

You can also file a small notch in the front cam bearing from the oil hole out. It doesn't take too mmuch of a groove.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

If you drill a small hole through the top gear, in just the right place, the oil coming out of the front cam bearing will pass thru the added hole and gets slung outward onto the chain.
DD

This early prototype aluminum cylinder head looks just like it's cast iron brother, right down to the extra water jacket core plug near the #1 spark plug.


I remembered that the first SL6 heads had some problems with the rear (#6) exhaust valve over-heating. The engineers found that the water coming up from the block and into the head was not curculating around that area of the water jacket. As a result, they re-did the head casting equipment and added a casted-in "shelf" to deflect the water flow into that "hot spot", to help cool that valve.

One look at this head confirmed that it did not have this feature so I had to thread the water passage hole and make a special insert that has the deflector built into it. (see the brass ring and the protruding strip of metal down inside the hole)
DD

On TIII V16 aluminum heads, they were cracking around the steel/aluminum plugs due to 2 factors, one was steel which is not compatible with aluminum expansion rates, two: plugs were overtightened.

I'd recommand that your aluminum head have these steel plugs changed to
aluminum plugs and tightened just so with thread compound.

This way you don't have to deal with siezed plugs especially with ferrous plugs.

Cheers, Wizard

aluminium plugs on aluminium head gonna be bad news unless A) plugs are anodized after thread cutting and such) B) plug is made of a different non ferrous material (copper, bronze, tin)

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

anodizing that head wouldn't be so difficult.

you need a container large enough to cover it with 10% sulphuric acid solution (add some nickel salts) then 6v and I'm calculating around 50-60 amp. Any automotive battery can do it. As for cathod you can use scrap lead or stainless steel, then you can die it (or not) and then you boil the baby to seal the process.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

News to me!

Aluminum plugs in aluminum head a problem?

In that case, I'd vote for brass. Easier to get and takes machining well.

Cheers, Wizard

Some good ideas and points but as far as swapping out the cast iron plugs, not this time around, they are in there tight... I will leave well enough alone for now.

The head is now assembled and ready to go.
I also shot a picture of the copper side of the special gasket.
DD